Will these parts fit

[Lefty]

if I am correct a Mazda pickup has got 10' finned brake drums on the rear end. Do you happen to know if these would fit on my 2003 Ranger? I would imagine that the fins would offer a slight upgrade, maybe worth it if the price is right at the junkyard.

 

[RobbieD]

Finned 10" drums were on Aerostars; I'm not sure if they came on the Mazda pickups. At least, on the earlier year models.

 

[Curious Hound]

They’re only 10”. Not 10’ LOL

Many Rangers also came with the 10” drums. You would need the complete brake assemblies - drums, backing plates, wheel cylinders, hardware, etc. but 10” brakes are normally better than 9” due to the greater contact surface area. The fins help with cooling.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The Ranger 9 inch brake drums are finned.

I tried to put 10 inch finned Aerostar drums on my 06 recently. The axle hub increased in size in 98 on the 8.8 axles. So the earlier Aerostar drum have a smaller bore an won't fit over the hub.

I would ensure you're looking at 10 inch brake drums first of all. Then check spec for the hub bore on an auto parts online listing. I want to say the late model axle hub is 2.240 inch.

 

[Lefty]

They’re only 10”. Not 10’ LOL

Many Rangers also came with the 10” drums. You would need the complete brake assemblies - drums, backing plates, wheel cylinders, hardware, etc. but 10” brakes are normally better than 9” due to the greater contact surface area. The fins help with cooling.

Yes, I have the 10" drums on my Ranger. So then do I still need the complete brake assembly?

 

[Curious Hound]

Yes, I have the 10" drums on my Ranger. So then do I still need the complete brake assembly?

I may now be confused. If you already have 10" drums, stuck with what you have. I wouldn't try to mix and match.

 

[Lefty]

I may now be confused. If you already have 10" drums, stuck with what you have. I wouldn't try to mix and match.

I believe that they are 10" yes. Perhaps the Ranger Edge is a bit different that way. I thought that finned drums might offer slightly better performance.

 

[sgtsandman]

I believe that they are 10" yes. Perhaps the Ranger Edge is a bit different that way. I thought that finned drums might offer slightly better performance.

The finned drums will provide a little bit more cooling. The question that needs answered is if it’s needed. Are your brakes running hot? Then the finned drums may provide a benefit, assuming everything is operating as it should. If you aren’t experiencing a lot of brake fading, trust me you will know if you are, then they will be of little benefit and may be more work than they are worth if you have to get the center bore turned in order to get them to fit. That last part is only an answer you can provide but there is a good chance it won’t be an off the shelf fit.

 

[Lefty]

The finned drums will provide a little bit more cooling. The question that needs answered is if it’s needed. Are your brakes running hot? Then the finned drums may provide a benefit, assuming everything is operating as it should. If you aren’t experiencing a lot of brake fading, trust me you will know if you are, then they will be of little benefit and may be more work than they are worth if you have to get the center bore turned in order to get them to fit. That last part is only an answer you can provide but there is a good chance it won’t be an off the shelf fit.

Thank you for a clear concise answer! My brakes are just fine all the way around. I am hoping to improve my stopping distance some time in the future when I get them done. I plan to install slotted cross drilled rotors in the front. I plan for the rare, but all important, emergency stop.

Yes, I know that the pads are likely to wear down faster, but I don't care. I drive in the city and have my fair share of close calls. Cost is not important. If they save the day just once, they are more than worth it.

 

[superj]

some drilled rotors crack so get the name brand ones. slotted are fine but the drilling is where the issue is that requires name brand parts. if you go with just slotted, you can get any brand.

i used drilled and slotted racing autocross and had multiple crack issues but once i went to only slotted, no more problems. i read the same issues on a number of forums with drilled and slotted rotors.

the drilling doesn't help so much as the slotting does. the slots evacuate the layer of gas formed while braking and let the pads actually grab the rotor. slotting is just for weight, if i remember right.

 

[sgtsandman]

Thank you for a clear concise answer! My brakes are just fine all the way around. I am hoping to improve my stopping distance some time in the future when I get them done. I plan to install slotted cross drilled rotors in the front. I plan for the rare, but all important, emergency stop.

Yes, I know that the pads are likely to wear down faster, but I don't care. I drive in the city and have my fair share of close calls. Cost is not important. If they save the day just once, they are more than worth it.

From my experience, neither will help much but I won’t say they won’t help at all.

I had cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front of my CR-Vs for when I was towing and they helped but not so much when driving unloaded. Finned drums weren’t an option, so I can’t speak on those.

Keep in mind, I do not deal with a lot of stop and go traffic. So, there may be merit in your goals.

Also, I did not notice a significant difference in wear between standard discs and drilled and slotted rotors. So, you shouldn’t have much concern there.

 

[sgtsandman]

some drilled rotors crack so get the name brand ones. slotted are fine but the drilling is where the issue is that requires name brand parts. if you go with just slotted, you can get any brand.

i used drilled and slotted racing autocross and had multiple crack issues but once i went to only slotted, no more problems. i read the same issues on a number of forums with drilled and slotted rotors.

the drilling doesn't help so much as the slotting does. the slots evacuate the layer of gas formed while braking and let the pads actually grab the rotor. slotting is just for weight, if i remember right.

I’ve heard that about the drilled rotors. If the holes are chamfered, the chances of that happening is greatly reduced. I never had a problem personally but I didn’t go cheap and all of my rotors were chamfered.

 

[Lefty]

some drilled rotors crack so get the name brand ones. slotted are fine but the drilling is where the issue is that requires name brand parts. if you go with just slotted, you can get any brand.

i used drilled and slotted racing autocross and had multiple crack issues but once i went to only slotted, no more problems. i read the same issues on a number of forums with drilled and slotted rotors.

the drilling doesn't help so much as the slotting does. the slots evacuate the layer of gas formed while braking and let the pads actually grab the rotor. slotting is just for weight, if i remember right.

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[Ranger850]

Now, I'm lost. @Lefty If you already have 10" drums, are they not finned ( smooth ) ? Are you asking if 10" finned drums will fit your 10" brake assembly?

 

[Lefty]

From my experience, neither will help much but I won’t say they won’t help at all.

I had cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front of my CR-Vs for when I was towing and they helped but not so much when driving unloaded. Finned drums weren’t an option, so I can’t speak on those.

Keep in mind, I do not deal with a lot of stop and go traffic. So, there may be merit in your goals.

Also, I did not notice a significant difference in wear between standard discs and drilled and slotted rotors. So, you shouldn’t have much concern there.

Stop-and-go at low speeds is not too much of a concern because braking distance is not shortened by that much. The real problems occur at highway speed. I've had to stop when clueless drivers pull out in front of me. If slotted rotors shorten those longer stopping distances, even by a foot, then it's a worthwhile investment, at least for me.