What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[ben_2_go]

Yeah, @ben_2_go, I wasn't trying to say that was your problem, just giving an example of how it could become clogged with the system being sealed.

I'm on my phone and can't see what year you're working on, if it says anywhere, but are you aware that on some Rangers the blend doors are vacuum controlled? Maybe you addressed that already, but it's the first place I'd look. Not sure, but I suspect it defaults to heat and the vacuum pulls it to open.

2001 2.5L. I checked the blend door, it's moving. I can hear it set between warm and cool. The temps changes from really hot to ambient air temp. Good call, tho.

@ben_2_go - if the pressures are correct but the compressor constantly cycles on/off, I would replace the high pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, then you have a high side blockage somewhere - could be a plugged orifice tube or somewhere else.

That's what I am leaning toward.

 

[ben_2_go]

A clogged orifice tube or expansion valve will cause the high side pressure to spike… usually high enough that the high pressure switch will shut the compressor down. If there’s no place for the pressure to go (restricted orifice) it will just keep building until the pressure relief blows off or the high press switch shuts the system down until the pressure drops. Then the process will happen again.
At the same time a restricted orifice will starve the low side, causing a lack of Freon to compress. The result will be the low side readings will be way low.
How can a high side restriction have normal pressures?

I don't know that there is a restriction, because the pressures are in the ranges they're supposed to be in.

A few a/c comments from an amateur who works magic from the shed of miracles….

Gauges: the “best” refill 134a gauges you can buy are about as accurate as the $8.50 2amp battery chargers I buy from China, usually 3 or 4 at a time. I used them as trickle chargers for the junk I’m not driving that day. If I take four of them, and rotate them on and off the same battery at the same time, there’s probably a 20% variance in the charge level and the volts level.

Cycling on/off: in my feeble experience, the compressor cycling on and off is usually a classic sign of a low Freon level. Try turning on the system and timing how often it goes on and off after stabilizing. Then, bleed a little fresh Freon into it, slowly. If you hook everything up and you bleed the Freon in with the canister upside down, it enters the AC system pretty quickly. If you hold the can upright, it is pulling off the vapor instead of the liquid, and it will enter the system much more slowly. You can also throttle delivery way back with the little valve on the can that punctures the top of the can. If the clutch starts engaging longer, and the disengage gets shorter, that’s a pretty good sign that it was low on Freon, regardless of what the gauges might say. Pay attention to the compressor rattle and sound. When you do this, it rattles a little bit more when it’s low, typically, and quiets down when it gets full, typically, and you can also sense some strain if you start to overfill it, typically, before it builds up so much, that you pop a hose or seal. A similar alternative is to intentionally bleed the system down a little bit, and then top it off with fresh Freon. That will pull the gauges down, and they will rise as the system fills to the right level. If they’re cheap, like mine, you’ll get a different result then if you just attach them at the functioning level.

“Freon” 12a: i’ve had some good luck, cooling down functioning, but under-performing, AC systems by putting in a little “Freon” 12a. It really isn’t Freon, it is propane. Mixed with Freon 12 or with Freon 134A, it just improves the performance a little bit. You can usually buy it online for a little more than the 134a recharge costs, and you can load it with 134a gauges/connectors. Realize you can’t use pure Freon 12 a. If your system functions correctly as it defeats the lubricant ans your system will die.

The reason they don’t use propane to start with is because it’s flammable/explosive. The tiny bit you would use topping off the already cool AC system is insignificant, but it can make a significant difference in the ice cubes pumping out your dash.

Hope it helps. Doing any of this is a very good time to wear safety goggles. And realize you’re getting your advice from a guy mixes his beer with sprite in the summertime. I learned that from the BRITs.

I have a pro set manifold and gauges from back in the day when I was an auto tech. They've never failed since I got them around '94-'95, before Chinese stuff started hitting the market hard.

Good info. I use cans of air duster for PCs to fill my '71 Buick. R12 is insane and my system was still working, but low on refrigerant. There's videos out there showing guys doing it. It's nearly the same as R290 propane, I believe.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I tried to diagnose an AC problem. Compressor is constantly cycling on and off. I checked the pressures and they are within range, but I get no cooling. I'm thinking it may be the high side transducer/high pressure swtich or possibly a blocked orifice. How could the orifice be blocked if the system has never been open? It was recharged once several years back and was fine.

When you say you checked pressures... was this with the system static? It must be because if the compressor is cycling quickly... there would be no way you could say the high and low side pressures are "normal" while the compressor cycles.

It really sounds to me like the system is low. A gauge set would still read "normal" while sitting static even if the system is low enough to make the compressor cycle and not cool.

 

[broncc]

Found a long abandoned logging road in Northern Vermont.



I love kinetic ropes now. I was able to rescue a truck that weighed 2x my bronco.

 

[Snoranger]

If you saw my other thread you already know what I did today.
My Softopper came in while I was at work today. Instead of having dinner, I decided to install it.

I’ve got a bunch of pics of the install that I’m not going to bore you with, until I have time to do a real write up.

 

[ben_2_go]

When you say you checked pressures... was this with the system static? It must be because if the compressor is cycling quickly... there would be no way you could say the high and low side pressures are "normal" while the compressor cycles.

It really sounds to me like the system is low. A gauge set would still read "normal" while sitting static even if the system is low enough to make the compressor cycle and not cool.

The gauges fluctuate as the compressor cycles. The comp on cycles about every 20-30 seconds. While the comp is running, the gauges stabilize within normal pressure ratings for the ambient air temp. It's a moot point now. I ordered all new everything including hi/low pressure switches, except condensor and evaporator. I have the stuff to flush them. Now I have to find time to do the repair and possibly have my truck down for a couple of days. I may have to use my son's truck after I fix a ujoint and rear trans seal.

 

[Snoranger]

The gauges fluctuate as the compressor cycles. The comp on cycles about every 20-30 seconds. While the comp is running, the gauges stabilize within normal pressure ratings for the ambient air temp. It's a moot point now. I ordered all new everything including hi/low pressure switches, except condensor and evaporator. I have the stuff to flush them. Now I have to find time to do the repair and possibly have my truck down for a couple of days. I may have to use my son's truck after I fix a ujoint and rear trans seal.

It sounds like it’s working properly….

Are the tubes at the evaporator getting cold, sweating, frosting over? Did you check the blend door to see if it’s closing off the heater core?

 

[ben_2_go]

It sounds like it’s working properly….

Are the tubes at the evaporator getting cold, sweating, frosting over? Did you check the blend door to see if it’s closing off the heater core?

Nothing is getting cool or cold in the system. Yes, checked the blend door and heater valve. Both are working 100%.

 

[DandysRanger]

My parking brake has been pretty useless for a while, so I ordered new right and left cables since the old ones were original and in pretty bad shape. As soon as I pulled the wheels I realized my axle seal bearing repair kit had not repaired anything and I am again looking at leaking axle seals. Sigh. Here we go again.

 

[Rick W]

Soooo, between the 95° heat and then the hurricane level thunderstorms every day, normal for Georgia, I finally got the Road Ranger’s trailer pulled over where I can work on it. Before pics:

I shelled out $250 for this trailer, and just by eyeball, it was just about the right size for what I wanted to do, and, of course it had the steel and the brake axle. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do too much modification.

Before I dropped the axle, I put a Ranger wheel on it, and I was very happy that it cleared the frame by about an inch.

I dropped the axle, and then from the front original axle mound back towards the back bumper, I cut everything off that was hanging below the frame. Again, my plan is to build a truck (like a railroad car), with a double brake axle that will rest under this frame. And of course I want the width of the trailer and the track of the tires to match the Road Ranger.

Well, Murphy’s Law, although the Ranger wheels will clear the frame as it is, the frame is about 7 inches wider than what I’m going to need for the tractor. Here’s pics of my white truck pieces at the right width sitting on top of the camper frame. For the tires to be the right width to match the truck, they would go right through the existing trailer frame:

So I guess I’m going to build the truck at the right width, with the springs and axles, ready to slide under this frame. It looks like I’ve got to narrow about 5 feet of the tail end.

Maybe the good news is that I thought I was going to have to step up the flatbed where it goes over the “fifth wheel.” I haven’t measured it out yet, but I believe I may be able to just use the frame as it is as far as elevation. When I put the double axles under the back, I want the tires completely underneath the bed, but I have to allow 3 or 4 inches of vértice travel for spring compression.

I think I’m going to take the rest of the 4th and drink a little non-Bud Light beer and figure it all out…

 

[ben_2_go]

Soooo, between the 95° heat and then the hurricane level thunderstorms every day, normal for Georgia, I finally got the Road Ranger’s trailer pulled over where I can work on it. Before pics:

View attachment 94653View attachment 94654

I shelled out $250 for this trailer, and just by eyeball, it was just about the right size for what I wanted to do, and, of course it had the steel and the brake axle. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do too much modification.

Before I dropped the axle, I put a Ranger wheel on it, and I was very happy that it cleared the frame by about an inch.

I dropped the axle, and then from the front original axle mound back towards the back bumper, I cut everything off that was hanging below the frame. Again, my plan is to build a truck (like a railroad car), with a double brake axle that will rest under this frame. And of course I want the width of the trailer and the track of the tires to match the Road Ranger.

Well, Murphy’s Law, although the Ranger wheels will clear the frame as it is, the frame is about 7 inches wider than what I’m going to need for the tractor. Here’s pics of my white truck pieces at the right width sitting on top of the camper frame. For the tires to be the right width to match the truck, they would go right through the existing trailer frame:

View attachment 94655View attachment 94656

So I guess I’m going to build the truck at the right width, with the springs and axles, ready to slide under this frame. It looks like I’ve got to narrow about 5 feet of the tail end.

Maybe the good news is that I thought I was going to have to step up the flatbed where it goes over the “fifth wheel.” I haven’t measured it out yet, but I believe I may be able to just use the frame as it is as far as elevation. When I put the double axles under the back, I want the tires completely underneath the bed, but I have to allow 3 or 4 inches of vértice travel for spring compression.

I think I’m going to take the rest of the 4th and drink a little non-Bud Light beer and figure it all out…

Interesting trailer ideas. I hope you keep posting about it.

 

[Rick W]

Interesting trailer ideas. I hope you keep posting about it.

Duh, senior moment here, forgive me (One of the things I hate about being a dimwitted senior old fart is sometimes you think like a dimwitted senior old fart).

I bought this trailer and the 15 or 20 14” Ranger bullet hole wheels and axles, etc. 2 or 3 years ago. While I hadn’t even started, no less finished, the Road Ranger tractor at that time, I remember doing all the math in my head (therein lies the problem), so I wouldn’t have to modify this trailer. Remember that 3-4 times a week I arrive in my kitchen and I can’t even remember why I came down from the bedroom

When I did the mock up this afternoon, I was using a 15”, 235/75/15 spare tire from the semi. I had completely forgotten that I had accumulated all of these 14 inch wheels, most of which have 185/65/14 tires on them, which are about the same width as the rim. Truck tires are 15 inch and wider.

Soooo, I went back out to the tire pile next to the shed of miracles, and I dug some of these things out, and then I redid the mock up. With the 14s, and the 185/65/14’s, I can keep the trailer frame width as is, and I end up at exactly 70 inches to the outside of the tires, which is exactly the same as the Road Ranger.

The truck’s tires stick out about an inch outside the fenders. So I’m going to rethink the trailer, so the trailer tires do the same thing. I will still keep the tires underneath the deck of the trailer. This puts me back to probably stepping up the deck, quasi goose neck, so the deck rides level when it’s attached to the fifth wheel.

My underlying point is that I really did think this out very well, then I forgot it all, but that was a few years ago, and I forgot that I was smart back then. Something like that.

And yes, I have to cut out about 3 inches from the forward axle so it mirrors the rear axle. Project for another day. Second set of brakes later too.

 

[Curious Hound]

Duh, senior moment here, forgive me (One of the things I hate about being a dimwitted senior old fart is sometimes you think like a dimwitted senior old fart).

I bought this trailer and the 15 or 20 14” Ranger bullet hole wheels and axles, etc. 2 or 3 years ago. While I hadn’t even started, no less finished, the Road Ranger tractor at that time, I remember doing all the math in my head (therein lies the problem), so I wouldn’t have to modify this trailer. Remember that 3-4 times a week I arrive in my kitchen and I can’t even remember why I came down from the bedroom

When I did the mock up this afternoon, I was using a 15”, 235/75/15 spare tire from the semi. I had completely forgotten that I had accumulated all of these 14 inch wheels, most of which have 185/65/14 tires on them, which are about the same width as the rim. Truck tires are 15 inch and wider.

Soooo, I went back out to the tire pile next to the shed of miracles, and I dug some of these things out, and then I redid the mock up. With the 14s, and the 185/65/14’s, I can keep the trailer frame width as is, and I end up at exactly 70 inches to the outside of the tires, which is exactly the same as the Road Ranger.

View attachment 94662View attachment 94663View attachment 94664
View attachment 94666

The truck’s tires stick out about an inch outside the fenders. So I’m going to rethink the trailer, so the trailer tires do the same thing. I will still keep the tires underneath the deck of the trailer. This puts me back to probably stepping up the deck, quasi goose neck, so the deck rides level when it’s attached to the fifth wheel.

My underlying point is that I really did think this out very well, then I forgot it all, but that was a few years ago, and I forgot that I was smart back then. Something like that.

And yes, I have to cut out about 3 inches from the forward axle so it mirrors the rear axle. Project for another day. Second set of brakes later too.

I write a lot of stuff down for my projects - notes, drawings, lists of parts, etc. That way I can forget where I put all those documents when it's time to do the project.

 

[Rick W]

I write a lot of stuff down for my projects - notes, drawings, lists of parts, etc. That way I can forget where I put all those documents when it's time to do the project.

Amen! I agree completely! Especially for all you kids! You can take pictures with your smart phones, and then look back in a second. I may have done that with one of my Polaroids, but I can’t find the prints!

I’ve said it a few times, but in 2014, I stepped in a tiny hole and destroyed my leg, my career, etc., and then I got a blood disorder that hampered my recovery. Part of my delusion was entering all of this Ranger stuff. I was buying all kinds of trucks and parts to build the Rangers we had left over from the engineering company. It was a coping mechanism, and turned into a great hobby, with a bunch of new friends!

(Assuming you all don’t hate me….)

 

[sgtsandman]

I write a lot of stuff down for my projects - notes, drawings, lists of parts, etc. That way I can forget where I put all those documents when it's time to do the project.

I do the same. Especially since it may be years from the planning stage to the actual execution.