4.0 SOHC FoMoCo Re-Man Any Input? Original 300k engine timing chain noise, time for new engine?

[ekrampitzjr]

You might want to look at this recent thread too, which discusses the crankshaft pulley bolt that has to be replaced when you do this work:

4.0 SOHC pulley bolt

I am gathering parts to replace the timing chain cassettes and other related parts in my 4.0 SOHC engine with over 250K miles on it. I plan to do this work later this year. I have found Ford part numbers for almost everything and confirmation they are the parts I need. The one thing I have...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Blmpkn]

I wouldn't be pulling a 300k mile motor without replacing it. Shit.. even If it were replaced with a 2.3 it would probably be a bump in power lol.

 

[Roert42]

If I were pulling the engine, I would at least take a peak inside and check out the bores. Most of the work would be done, new rings and gaskets or whatever you please.

I’m not a fan of buying a reman engine, especially if there is shipping involved. They may warranty the engine, but all the labor and shipping is on you. Might be worth it if you are having a shop do the work and they are sourcing the reman. Least that way they can eat the labor if there is an issue later.

 

[JohnnyO]

I wouldn't be pulling a 300k mile motor without replacing it. Shit.. even If it were replaced with a 2.3 it would probably be a bump in power lol.

The 4.0 in my old Sport Trac blew a head gasket at 212,000 miles although the timing chains didn't make any noise. Engine still had to come out, something I can't do myself, and my mechanic's opinion was if a 200k+ engine has to come out you might as well replace the whole thing. At that time a reman from Jasper was $4500 plus labor, probably worth it instead of dropping $2000 or more just for head gaskets and you might as well do the timing chains. I'd already spent a bunch on repairs the last two years, stuff gets old and wears out, I would have had to put the engine on plastic and to pay it off in a year would be about the same as a new truck payment and then I'd have $10k in a 13 year-old truck with over 200,000 miles on it. Didn't seem like a wise investment.

 

[Broosedamoose]

I'm doing this but I'm replacing the engine which has 266k on it with one I have that has 89k on it. I went with the Cloyes parts. Some have said the bottom end is good for 400+. I'm replacing the cassettes because it's from an 03 and I'm not sure if it was made before they fixed the issue. Not that they really ever fixed the issue because my truck is an 07 and the chains are rattling!

 

[sgtsandman]

After you do the swap, make sure you change the tensioners every 70K. Part of the issue with these engines is that the tensioners wear out and allow the chain to slap on the guides, eventually breaking them.

Make sure the oil passages for the tensioners are clear too. Some times they can gum up and cause the same issue because the tensioners are oil starved.

The OEM ones were still good when I replaced them with Cloyes. The Cloyes haven’t been a problem but I kept the OEM as spares just in case.

The Cloyes also had a lifetime warranty on them where nothing else does.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

After you do the swap, make sure you change the tensioners every 70K. Part of the issue with these engines is that the tensioners wear out and allow the chain to slap on the guides, eventually breaking them.

Make sure the oil passages for the tensioners are clear too. Some times they can gum up and cause the same issue because the tensioners are oil starved.

The OEM ones were still good when I replaced them with Cloyes. The Cloyes haven’t been a problem but I kept the OEM as spares just in case.

The Cloyes also had a lifetime warranty on them where nothing else does.

With this, if you hold down the throttle pedal when starting for a few seconds, it allows the system to build oil pressure. Been doing that for a while with my SOHC. Seems to work. No chain noise at 175k.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

With this, if you hold down the throttle pedal when starting for a few seconds, it allows the system to build oil pressure. Been doing that for a while with my SOHC. Seems to work. No chain noise at 175k.

Doing that might be overkill. In other words, it probably isn't necessary.

The tensioners have one small oil hole for priming, and once they're primed, they aren't going to lose the oil from that hole quickly. I pre-primed my new Motorcraft tensioners before they were changed, and they were still solid and full of oil when my buddy installed them.

 

[DILLARD000]

After you do the swap, make sure you change the tensioners every 70K. Part of the issue with these engines is that the tensioners wear out and allow the chain to slap on the guides, eventually breaking them.

Make sure the oil passages for the tensioners are clear too. Some times they can gum up and cause the same issue because the tensioners are oil starved.

The OEM ones were still good when I replaced them with Cloyes. The Cloyes haven’t been a problem but I kept the OEM as spares just in case.

The Cloyes also had a lifetime warranty on them where nothing else does.

Gotten the habit of spaying a little CarbCleaner into those OilPassages before installing new Tensioners, to help clear any sludge, then an Oil+Filter change afterwards.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Doing that might be overkill.

no u

 

[sgtsandman]

With this, if you hold down the throttle pedal when starting for a few seconds, it allows the system to build oil pressure. Been doing that for a while with my SOHC. Seems to work. No chain noise at 175k.

This works for the initial install of the tensioners too. That way they are easier to install. Priming the tensioners before installed is the standard procedure but getting the one installed under the intake for the left cylinder bank can be a SOB if it is primed first. Holding the gas pedal to the floor after install will take care of the priming before engine start and make life easier.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

This works for the initial install of the tensioners too. That way they are easier to install. Priming the tensioners before installed is the standard procedure but getting the one installed under the intake for the left cylinder bank can be a SOB if it is primed first. Holding the gas pedal to the floor after install will take care of the priming before engine start and make life easier.

My mechanic buddy followed that procedure for the initial start after changing the tensioners, and I'm glad he did. After that initial start, I doubt there's any benefit to continuing to do that for every start unless you suspect a problem. Granted, I haven't had any signs of problems either.

 

[sgtsandman]

My mechanic buddy followed that procedure for the initial start after changing the tensioners, and I'm glad he did. After that initial start, I doubt there's any benefit to continuing to do that for every start unless you suspect a problem. Granted, I haven't had any signs of problems either.

That's a personal preference thing. I don't do it but some do. It is a bit of a band aid fix if the chain is noisy at start up until you can get the tensioners changed. Other than the initial install of the tensioners, I don't use the flood clear procedure to prime the tensioners.

 

[Mike92STX]

I'm going to put my 2 cents in here, mine had the timing chain rattle shortly after I purchased it. Actually, it was probably there when I purchased it because when I checked the oil it was over full. I'm lucky I have a couple of sons that are better at this kind of stuff than I am. They told me if I got a remanufactured motor, they could do the swap in a weekend. It took almost a week because they both work fulltime jobs. It cost me $3500 for the motor and another $200 for other parts but they didn't charge anything for labor and the paid for a couple of parts like a clutch that it didn't really need but since the motor was out may as well do it. The truck had 256000 when I got it and it has 260000 now, I'm retired and only work part time, so I don't put very many miles on it.