Can't get front brake cable and new rear cables to meet

[55trucker]

One has to release all the tension inside the park brake pedal actuator (this will require 2 individuals 1. under the vehicle pulling on the cable 2. one in the vehicle pulling on the park release lever).......a small drill bit has to be inserted into the hole where shown to keep the system released while one services the cables

 

[Fairlaniac]

One has to release all the tension inside the park brake pedal actuator (this will require 2 individuals 1. under the vehicle pulling on the cable 2. one in the vehicle pulling on the park release lever).......a small drill bit has to be inserted into the hole where shown to keep the system released while one services the cables


View attachment 57182

When I do this about 1-1/2" of cable pulls out. I still fall short of making the connection.

This Ranger is new to me. It's my beater truck. It was having issues when I bought it. The parking brake was never used by the previous owner. I always use mine. So I started to use it and then it started hanging up. The rear brakes would lock up as soon as I applied the brakes when driving. So I just replaced all the shoes and hardware and cylinders. It was still locking the brakes so I pulled the parking brake equalizer link and drove it without the parking brake for a few weeks. So this week I installed the rear cables. The front cable looked good and moved freely. I'm wondering if the front cable was replaced at sometime and they got a shorter one? Mine is an extended cab. Maybe I'll just buy a new cable, install it and see if I still have the issue.

Thanks,

 

[55trucker]

Did you follow the instructions as outlined by the service manual? The assembly is sprung loaded, you have to have that pin in the hole to allow the cable to be tension free. After connecting all the sections one can pull out the pin.

 

[Fairlaniac]

Did you follow the instructions as outlined by the service manual? The assembly is sprung loaded, you have to have that pin in the hole to allow the cable to be tension free. After connecting all the sections one can pull out the pin.

Since my connectors were rusted and I had all new parts I just cut the cables and the front may have retracted? I did have someone then pull on the release and I pulled the cable as far as it would come out. About the 1-1/2" I previously mentioned. Still not far enough to meet up?

 

[Curious Hound]

Did you cut the front cable? Any cables you cut are too short and will require replacement.

 

[55trucker]

Did you insert the pin into the hole in the pedal lever bracket?

 

[Fairlaniac]

Did you cut the front cable? Any cables you cut are too short and will require replacement.

Did not cut front cable.

 

[Fairlaniac]

Did you insert the pin into the hole in the pedal lever bracket?

Did not put pin in the bracket. I cut the back cable, held onto the front and let the tension wind up. If I'm not mistaken the pin only keeps it from unwinding? No pin would mean I'd have to pull the cable out under tension. Am I incorrect?

Thanks,

 

[Curious Hound]

Did not put pin in the bracket. I cut the back cable, held onto the front and let the tension wind up. If I'm not mistaken the pin only keeps it from unwinding? No pin would mean I'd have to pull the cable out under tension. Am I incorrect?

Thanks,

I was thinking the opposite. The pin would keep it from retracting while you’re working on it.

 

[55trucker]

Did not put pin in the bracket. I cut the back cable, held onto the front and let the tension wind up. If I'm not mistaken the pin only keeps it from unwinding? No pin would mean I'd have to pull the cable out under tension. Am I incorrect?

Thanks,

Indeed you are incorrect,

the pin prevents the spring inside the assembly from loading up, the spring is part of the auto adjuster, doing both at the same time.one pulls the cable until it can move no more, pull the park brake release lever, at the same time one then inserts the pin into the hole, then release the cable, NOW you can service the parking brake cables. If you do not do the job in this manner you're just banging your head against the wall.

 

[Fairlaniac]

Indeed you are incorrect,

the pin prevents the spring inside the assembly from loading up, the spring is part of the auto adjuster, doing both at the same time.one pulls the cable until it can move no more, pull the park brake release lever, at the same time one then inserts the pin into the hole, then release the cable, NOW you can service the parking brake cables. If you do not do the job in this manner you're just banging your head against the wall.

We are talking the same thing. If you pull the cable out and put the pin in, the stored energy is held by the pin. If you pull the pin, the spring unwinds. Despite me cutting my rear cables. Afterwards I did pull he cable and put the pin in. At that point it "should" be ready to hook up. In this condition, I am still about three inches from making the connection of the front cable to rear cables. This is still my issue. The cable will not pull out any further and when I pull on he rear cables I am can actuate the rear parking brakes. I have the drums off and can see it so there is no more slack in the rear to make up my three inch gap?

Thanks,

 

[Curious Hound]

 

[Fairlaniac]

Indeed you are incorrect,

the pin prevents the spring inside the assembly from loading up, the spring is part of the auto adjuster, doing both at the same time.one pulls the cable until it can move no more, pull the park brake release lever, at the same time one then inserts the pin into the hole, then release the cable, NOW you can service the parking brake cables. If you do not do the job in this manner you're just banging your head against the wall.

Here is a picture I took before I took the back cables off. See how much cable stick out of he cable sheath. It's about as long as the connector to the left.

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r1.jpg

Then the picture someone posted here for reference.

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r2.JPG

Here you can see my new cables, I also have a ratchet strap holding the front cable and tensioned. See how short the stick out is on the new cable? See how much I am short of making the connection.
Just looking for ideas before I look at another passenger side cable.

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r3.jpg

 

[Curious Hound]

Maybe you bought a bad cable

 

[55trucker]

Ok, from what I see in your photo that photo has been reversed, the front should be to the left, , *I have to remember the cable positions*, if you disconnect the right cable (held by the frame bracket) from the equalizer the left cable (in the equalizer) will reach the front cable union?