Can't get front brake cable and new rear cables to meet

[55trucker]

Recap......

in those two photos you uploaded I can clearly see that the original right cable is longer than the replacement cable you purchased.

 

[Fairlaniac]

Ok, from what I see in your photo that photo has been reversed, the front should be to the left, , *I have to remember the cable positions*, if you disconnect the right cable (held by the frame bracket) from the equalizer the left cable (in the equalizer) will reach the front cable union?

I'm not sure about that? The right cable has the "fingers" to hold the cable in the bracket hole. The left cable has a "stop" machined into the fitting on the end of the cable which seats in the connector. There is also a tab that locks behind the "stop" to keep it from pulling out.

 

[55trucker]

Disconnect the right cable from the equalizer, now can you connect the remaining cable to the front?

 

[Fairlaniac]

Disconnect the right cable from the equalizer, now can you connect the remaining cable to the front?View attachment 57324

How then do I reconnect the right cable?

 

[55trucker]

You're missing the point.....

if you remove the right cable can you now connect the left to the intermediate cable which is in front of the equalizer?

 

[Fairlaniac]

You're missing the point.....

if you remove the right cable can you now connect the left to the intermediate cable which is in front of the equalizer?View attachment 57356View attachment 57357

I get that but what do I do with the removed R.H. cable?

 

[55trucker]

Assuming that your intermediate cable is the proper length my opinion is that the right cable is too short as previously suggested. The photo of my setup under my truck clearly shows that the replacement cable you purchased is on the short side.

 

[Fairlaniac]

So I purchased another new right side cable. It has the same amount of "stick out" as my other new cable. Two different brands and they are the same in overall length, cable length, spring end is same and stick out within 1/8". So now I wonder if the auto adjusted is goofed up? So lets start here. These are two pictures of my adjuster/pedal. Notice there the barrel is on the end of the cable. Is this the correct location for a cable that is pulled out as far as it can go? I have a ratchet strap holding it fully extended. If the barrel were more around the 2:00 position it might be long enough to hook up? BTW, if I put a 5/32" drill bit in the hole to hold tension. When I release the ratchet strap the drill bit falls to the floor? Do I have something messed up in my adjuster? Thank you for the help so far.

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r5.jpg

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r5.jpg

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r4.jpg

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/r4.jpg

 

[55trucker]

In those photos you've uploaded I do not see the parking pawl release lever, the pawl is the toothed lever that is on a hinge, it locks into the large toothed gear to keep the park brake cable applied. When one pulls the release handle the pawl swings away from the toothed gear to release the tension.
I can see that you've removed the plastic shield from the actuator, Can you take another photo & back away from the assembly to get a more complete image of it?

 

[Fairlaniac]

In those photos you've uploaded I do not see the parking pawl release lever, the pawl is the toothed lever that is on a hinge, it locks into the large toothed gear to keep the park brake cable applied. When one pulls the release handle the pawl swings away from the toothed gear to release the tension.
I can see that you've removed the plastic shield from the actuator, Can you take another photo & back away from the assembly to get a more complete image of it?

Here are some pics from the pedal area. Some are very similar. The last one shows a pawl when I pulled the release handle.

Thanks!
Pic1
Pic2
Pic3
Pic4
Pic5
Pic6
Pic7

 

[55trucker]

Outside of the parking pedal being faulty I still feel that according to your uploaded photos the replacement right side cable is on the short side.

 

[Snoranger]

This distance:

Is not even close to this distance:

That cable is either wrong or installed wrong.

 

[Fairlaniac]

This distance:

View attachment 57594

Is not even close to this distance:

View attachment 57595

That cable is either wrong or installed wrong.

I'm beginning to think it's the pedal assembly. I have had two new cables in the part couple of days and both are about the same length. As I think about it if the spring on the drum end of the cable is a tad longer and with "cable stretch" it might show up short from new? Last night I made a short steel plate with a "keyhole" in each end. It took up the distance between the rear brake barrel and front barrel. I then tried to apply the brake and it only went a little bit. I read where you can actuate these pedals a number of times with a new cable to "set" the tension. I get no sense of ratcheting. The brakes lock up but it's not right. If I knew an earlier non-adjusting pedal would bolt right in. I'd replace it. Also was reading about some plastic "wedge" with the pawl? I have no suck plastic wedge anywhere. I was reading where guys with '93 & '94's had a busted "wedge" fall out to the floor? I've driven this for a few a while without parking brakes. I just like to have them working. Twice over the years I've needed to use it as twice a rusty brake line by the gas tank ('89 & '91) rusted and the brakes failed.

 

[Curious Hound]

I agree with what Sno said above. S body keeps giving you the wrong cable. Try a different parts place and different brand if possible.

 

[Fairlaniac]

I agree with what Sno said above. S body keeps giving you the wrong cable. Try a different parts place and different brand if possible.

One cable a Wagner through Rock Auto and the other a Duralast through local Autozone?