2150 and Fuel/air mix not right. Cant get jetting right

[MadMax_636]

Thats why im thinking hes got vacuum loss to that one cylinder....through a bad intake gasket

If it was rings id think the plug would be oil fouled. Only other remote option would be a burned exhaust valve.

Well if its any of that. I guess ill be ordering the new motor. Id rather not try and fix or bandaid this worn out motor. Id rather let her rest. Ill drive her till she blows.

 

[RonD]

He could try the "dollar bill test" if his exhaust system is intact back to tail pipe

He can Google: exhaust dollar bill test

It would indicate a burnt exhaust valve

If you have another vehicle, with no engine issues, to do this test on first it helps, so you know what it should look like and what it shouldn't look like when it sucks the bill TO the exhaust tip

 

[MadMax_636]

He could try the "dollar bill test" if his exhaust system is intact back to tail pipe

He can Google: exhaust dollar bill test

It would indicate a burnt exhaust valve

From the videos of people doing the test and from me doing it myself in the past. Im pretty sure it isnt burnt valves. Since it doesnt pop or anything. It super clean and smooth sounding. It doesnt try and suck the paper in.

My truck used to have a bit of a lifter tick but as of recently, That lifter tick went away not sure if that helps.

 

[RonD]

good stuff

 

[8thTon]

What kind on manifold layout does this engine have - how are the cylinders grouped in regard to the carb venturi?

 

[RonD]

If you have a can of Quick Start(ether) you can let the warm engine idle with air cleaner off, then use a GLOVED Hand and rag to close off the throat of the carb, this increases the vacuum in lower carb and intake to above 25" as engine struggles to suck in air
Then spray the ether around carb base and intake/head mating
Engine will PING if any ether gets sucked in thru the leak

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Well if its any of that. I guess ill be ordering the new motor. Id rather not try and fix or bandaid this worn out motor. Id rather let her rest. Ill drive her till she blows.

After posting up those vacuum specs, how smooth it sounds like it runs, and the fact you aint mentioned any knocks or oil burning....i dont think id be replacing engines yet, this one sounds like its still got alot of life yet.

 

[MadMax_636]

After posting up those vacuum specs, how smooth it sounds like it runs, and the fact you aint mentioned any knocks or oil burning....i dont think id be replacing engines yet, this one sounds like its still got alot of life yet.

Shes got blowby and burn a bit of oil but not out the tail pipe. So shed need a full rebuild. There are zero machine shops open or wanting to do engine machining for a decent price dude to the bat virus. Thats mainly why Id like to replace the motor.

If it isnt too hard or wont take a long ass time. I would replace the the intake gasket or try and keep her running like she should. Ill do a video of it before I leave for work. Since Ill let her warm up since shes got 15w50 in her. Which has helped with blowby.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Shes got blowby and burn a bit of oil but not out the tail pipe. So shed need a full rebuild. There are zero machine shops open or wanting to do engine machining for a decent price dude to the bat virus. Thats mainly why Id like to replace the motor.

If it isnt too hard or wont take a long ass time. I would replace the the intake gasket or try and keep her running like she should. Ill do a video of it before I leave for work. Since Ill let her warm up since shes got 15w50 in her. Which has helped with blowby.

Intake manifold gaskets arnt hard...and they are cheap...

BUT....

You would do yourself right kind to have it checked for warpage/corrected as well as making sure both mating surfaces are C-L-E-A-N, and make double damn sure to use the proper tightening sequence.

Last one i did was on a 77 351 and when i started it coolant shot out like old faithful.

 

[MadMax_636]

Intake manifold gaskets arnt hard...and they are cheap...

BUT....

You would do yourself right kind to have it checked for warpage/corrected as well as making sure both mating surfaces are C-L-E-A-N, and make double damn sure to use the proper tightening sequence.

Last one i did was on a 77 351 and when i started it coolant shot out like old faithful.

Thats why Im mainly worried about doing it since I drive this truck daily. Plus, If I order my motor and other parts I need now I should get it all sometime October. I still have to get the intake resurfaced and checked as well as get the oil pan clean. Im also planning on getting headers made for it with the crappy emissions headers are crap.

 

[RonD]

All piston engines have blow-by, which is why the PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system was added back in the 1960's
Prior to that there was just a vent tube on the upper oil pan or lower block that vented the blow-by(and its oil vapor) out of the crank case

PCV reduces that pollution, and the dripping of the oil, lol, which EVERY earlier engine had, it was like the condensation leak on AC units, except it was OIL, ALL THE TIME, drip drip drip

Blow-by is just exhaust exiting passed the piston rings, but because its so HOT it vaporized some of the oil on cylinder walls and piston sides as it "blows-by"
That's where the oil vapor in the engine comes from, nothing else inside the engine is anywhere near hot enough to vaporized oil

I would reconnect PCV system and if you want install a Catch Can on the PCV valve hose, easy to make one
The blow-by gases going into the intake can also can help to reduce "pinging", ain't much but ain't 0 either

EGR system helps much more for that

 

[franklin2]

I still haven't figured out what the problem is? The engine runs good? No coolant leaks? No missing or rough running?

I would hook the PCV valve back up to the proper port on the back of the carb. The PCV valve is like a large vacuum leak, and the carb idle circuit is calibrated for that, so once you hook it back up, the idle speed will have to be reset and the idle mixture screws re-adjusted. But you really need it. I bet your blowby you are seeing goes away when you get it hooked back up. If you keep running it without the PCV, you will start noticing a lot of milky stuff under your oil cap. And any little leaks the engine has will be worse.

 

[franklin2]

P.S. Running the engine and then shutting it off really made a difference in how the plugs looked didn't it?

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: hard cold/cool starts are still there. Timing keeps getting messed up. As if it walks around even though the bolt is tightened. I believe I might/do have burnt valves. Ive got a video of the exhaust but it could be related to timing or idle mix screws.

I really dont understand what the issue is. I need to redo the timing and set it 10 degrees and set the idle speed. My vac advanced can somehow keeps getting loose which might have something do to with it. Im really annoyed, confused, and baffled by what going on.

The starting feels like it might be related to retarded or advanced too far.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

UPDATE: hard cold/cool starts are still there. Timing keeps getting messed up. As if it walks around even though the bolt is tightened. I believe I might/do have burnt valves. Ive got a video of the exhaust but it could be related to timing or idle mix screws.

I really dont understand what the issue is. I need to redo the timing and set it 10 degrees and set the idle speed. My vac advanced can somehow keeps getting loose which might have something do to with it. Im really annoyed, confused, and baffled by what going on.

The starting feels like it might be related to retarded or advanced too far.

After 30+ years and 290,000 miles timing chains can stretch.

Nevermind...the 2.8 has timing gears...

Youre durasparked so the SPOUT connector shouldnt be in play...

i really have no ideas left.