My 91 ext cab build thread

[farmer]

I'm just thinking you're going to have a hell of a time getting everything fit in with the v belt setup. Don't forget there are different timing covers for different water pump rotations, which would be easier to change with the motor on a stand than in a truck. Food for thought.

I know going from a fm146/1354 combo to the T19/208 I was able to keep stock length driveshafts. I think zf5 is longer, but I do have the motor set pretty far back

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

i'll make er fit
i'm gonna build a proper rock solid motor next year for it.. do it right.
this is just a quick extreme-budget swap for now, due mostly to time running out for my current 4.0L and auto tranny thats about to die soon. lol

 

[Hagan]

A few random thoughts while reading,

try to find an explorer front accessory drive, I used a serpentine F150 setup, and combined with my poor placement of the mustang motor mounts, its tight all over. I had to hack up an non-a/c heater box to clear the pass valve cover, and I cut the core support a lot to tuck the 94 explorer radiator away from the water pump.

Ignition: I used a duraspark dizzy and module with my TFI coil. Its just what I had. Summit Racing sells a drop in 2 wire HEI dizzy for less than $200, something I'll buy sometime soon.

If he used an Expo FEAD he would need a different harmonic balancer because they are different weights. I
Mine was $200..but I decided to use a 302 instead.

I used a $100 Skip white HEI distributor. Works perfectly for my needs.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

picked up a non a/c heater box today

also spent(wasted) a bunch of time pulling apart the front end of this explorer for the rad support just to find out it doesn't just unbolt and come off... they are like spot welded or something to the inner fenders.. how in the hell do you swap out a rad support? the right side of mine is rusted out, and so are all the other ones in the pick-a-part yard, but this explorer they just got in is good. I need to replace the rad support and the rad support frame bracket.

 

[prerunner]

.. how in the hell do you swap out a rad support? the right side of mine is rusted out, and so are all the other ones in the pick-a-part yard, but this explorer they just got in is good. I need to replace the rad support and the rad support frame bracket.

Unfortunately, you gotta drill out the spot welds and weld the new (to you) one in. Or you could get creative about how you mount it with drilled holes and bolts or whatever but it ain't a bolt together assembly. Everything from the grille back is spot welded together.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

damn.. now i have to spend money on a battery pack sawzall & drill...

 

[farmer]

Since my trucks just a beater I hung the radiator support in with self tapping screws. 3 years later its still solid and when the grill is on nobody can tell.
Good luck!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Since my trucks just a beater I hung the radiator support in with self tapping screws. 3 years later its still solid and when the grill is on nobody can tell.
Good luck!

I screwed my front rad support on my racetruck too. Its still hanging together after three years of abuse.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

 

[prerunner]

damn.. now i have to spend money on a battery pack sawzall & drill...

Word of advice, don't get the Cambodian Tire 20 volt piece of crap. My 20 volt angle grinder would blow its internal breaker as soon as the disc touched metal and probably the 20th time wouldn't go again. Ever.
Like farmer, I'm going to sheet metal screw the inside sheetmetal together on my B II. Mine was rusty but I'm using the explorer metal to move the battery to match the 4.0 wiring from the Exploder. Nuts & bolts, self tapping screws, rivets, clecos, whatever as long as it holds metal together - its all good.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

cool, thx for the feed back dudes.

My room mates got a dewalt 18v drill, and i found a dewalt reciprocating saw for 40bucks i can use with the 18v battery packs my room mates got. I'm wondering if i can drill out all the spot welds without needing to buy the reciprocating saw though..

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

also i got my 2" BL kit today and the rear exit manifolds

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

I sand blasted all inside the manifolds and got the machine shop to install new studs. Pick em up on payday.

Also got a new project

92 Explorer 4L 5-speed, manual transfer case. New windshield, battery, brakes, tune up. Needs a new clutch and slave cylinder. Rhino liner paint job. paid $400

Gonna be my dd until i get the Ranger swap done.

 

[Hagan]

Not bad for $400!

I never understood why people rhino line the whole body lol

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

Not bad for $400!

I never understood why people rhino line the whole body lol

Ya dude! and i just found out it only needs a slave. so that saves me $200.

Was looking into how hard it is to take off the coating. not so easy im told.. also i've read you can heat and peal it off. Im picking it up next thursday. I'll have a better look at it then. seems thin and already coming off though by looking at pictures. It used to be green. which is way more awesomer

 

[CrowRanger]

I sand blasted all inside the manifolds and got the machine shop to install new studs. Pick em up on payday.

Also got a new project

92 Explorer 4L 5-speed, manual transfer case. New windshield, battery, brakes, tune up. Needs a new clutch and slave cylinder. Rhino liner paint job. paid $400

Gonna be my dd until i get the Ranger swap done.

lol i saw that explorer on CL a few times. was consideirng it for a 4l swap in my ranger