5.0 Manual swap- 2002- Hurdles

[b3million]

The f150 transfer case is a TIGHT fit in a ranger, but it can be done. My truck is a 2001 and it really doesn't care that I removed and replaced the ECU with a megasquirt. PATS is inside the ECU, so if you remove it, you also remove PATS.

You have any pics of the tcase fitment? I'm gonna go with the 302 on account of the AC bit, but again, haven't quite figured out the computer.
I have no idea if an explorer harness would even plug up to a truck/foxbody ECU to begin with- if it's a few pin swaps here and there, good deal, but if the plug is completely different, that's a whole nother level of "nuh uh."

Not to mention, the Explorer 302 is coil pack ignition and most of the 302s that had manual options came with distributors (if I interpret the junkyard pictures correctly.) That is obviously not something I want to break by swapping an ecu.
What are my options for dealing with that? (running an explorer motor to keep coil pack ignition and still being able to run a manual)

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

JY would be best place, most aftermarket ones I have found are set up for the smaller starter.

Here is a write up I did on it awhile ago:

Thread 'SBF Engine Seperator Plates'

Mar 13, 2020

The whole thing came about when I tried to reuse the 4.2 seperator plate I got with my M5ODR2 with a '96 302 starter. The starter hole was just barely too small. The plate from my C5 was identical but didn't have a neat little foam seal around the crank. Faced with the rather terrifying prospect of either pulling the t-case/trans or engine or returning a defective starter to Rockauto I did some research and discovered the dark world of differing Ford starter depths and the different sized holes Ford put in the seperator plates to try to keep people from mixing and matching them.

I...

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The mod is you basically dremel the starter hole slightly bigger, not much to take a picture of.

 

[scotts90ranger]

You should really look at the differences between the 1356 T case and 4406 T case, if I remember right the offset is like 3" more on the 1356 that would be in a 5L F150 which would put it deeper into the frame rail and below the frame, if you're planning on sticking with the stock axles that could be an issue.

 

[don4331]

The f150 transfer case is a TIGHT fit in a ranger, but it can be done. My truck is a 2001 and it really doesn't care that I removed and replaced the ECU with a megasquirt. PATS is inside the ECU, so if you remove it, you also remove PATS. 351W is a taller deck and interferes with the A/C box primarily. If you are planning on forced induction, I would recommend just building the cheapest junkyard engine you can find. 302 parts are dirt cheap and you can get a full balanced rotating assembly with forged pistons for around 1500 dollars.

351W being taller deck, is both taller and wider; there is significant interference with HVAC box (even the 5.0 has some), it gets "snug" with the steering column and makes for challenges with exhaust manifolds/headers.

Later 5.0 blocks (80s and newer, as opposed to 302 blocks from 60s) will only make about 450 hp before the integrity of the block comes into question. The Mustang boys would split their blocks in 1/2 when exceeding.

 

[franklin2]

You have any pics of the tcase fitment? I'm gonna go with the 302 on account of the AC bit, but again, haven't quite figured out the computer.
I have no idea if an explorer harness would even plug up to a truck/foxbody ECU to begin with- if it's a few pin swaps here and there, good deal, but if the plug is completely different, that's a whole nother level of "nuh uh."

Not to mention, the Explorer 302 is coil pack ignition and most of the 302s that had manual options came with distributors (if I interpret the junkyard pictures correctly.) That is obviously not something I want to break by swapping an ecu.
What are my options for dealing with that? (running an explorer motor to keep coil pack ignition and still being able to run a manual)

What is your plan down the road for the fuel injection system when you eventually go with a blower or turbo? I am thinking a stock computer is going to need modification to handle any boost. You are hung up on the anti-theft thing but I would look into the future as to what computer is going to be the best for your final boosted engine goal, and possibly plan on that now if it's not too expensive.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Some Explorers/mountaineers came with a 5.0 and a manual transmission but they weren’t really common.

The BW1356 is a huge t-case. Saw a guy just recently that tried fitting one in a Ranger and trying to tuck it up in the frame. After cutting on both the frame and t-case he abandoned the process in favor of a different t-case that fit better. I’m not really a fan of the BW1356 in my F-150.

96/97 Explorers had no PATS but ran the return style fuel system.

98 Explorers had PATS and a return style fuel system.

99-01 Explorers had PATS and a returnless style fuel system.

Megasquirt and other such aftermarket computers may be a worthy option especially with wanting to add boost.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Some Explorers/mountaineers came with a 5.0 and a manual transmission but they weren’t really common.

IIRC oddly they were only available in 2wd.

Not to mention, the Explorer 302 is coil pack ignition and most of the 302s that had manual options came with distributors (if I interpret the junkyard pictures correctly.) That is obviously not something I want to break by swapping an ecu.
What are my options for dealing with that? (running an explorer motor to keep coil pack ignition and still being able to run a manual)

Easiest would be to get a tune made for a manual transmission. They could nix PATS while they are there too.

Explorer is the same 5.0 as anything else. The intake is basically a cast aluminum GT40 intake and is a popular upgrade for Mustang people. The belt system is awesome for a Ranger swap. You will need the oil pan for your truck. If you avoid the later ones with the P heads (if you are not going to aftermarket heads) IMO they are a great base to build off of.

If you don't want coil pack ignition yank the cam position sensor and stab a distributor in it.

They don't have forged pistons but have been beat on for 30-40 years either.