Id run with 12's. 14s maybe too long for your truck.. Unless you want to lose out on up travel.. (remount your new bumps also)
-
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register
for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.
92 Pre-Runner Ranger
- Thread starter Alix
- Start date
What is your reasoning? (not being a jerk, I'm seriously interested in all opinions) Here's my reasoning (feel free to point out any errors you foresee) I'll be making new lower shock mounts and shock hoops with engine cross bar for the uppers. I'll be mounting the shocks as far out as I can to allow for softer spring rates and valving which will in turn require a longer shock to maintain wheel travel. Another effect would be that the shocks won't have to work as hard to control wheel damping thus improving the efficiency at the same time. Right now they sit pretty far inboard with a high spring rate to pull more wheel travel out of a short shock. All the measurements and calculations add up. The bumps wouldn't need moved because where they are positioned now, they stop wheel travel just before the tires touch the fenders. That point won't change with new shocks. The shocks will have plenty of room to sit outside of the stops as well.
All of the above work will be next winters project at the same time as the motor swap
First work will be the bed cage and longer shocks back there because I can get that done without much downtime in the summer. (Winter actually mean winter here 
)
Here I go.. Typically if you have 5.5 inches of lift built into your beams. You will achieve 60% up travel (bumping it stock location) and 40 percent droop over 17" of wheel travel.
Anyways.. I have experienced I would lose on much valuable up travel with 14"s. I personally like my ride height low with a sufficient amount of up travel. 14s limit that unless the upper mount sticks out the hood..
Anyways.. I have experienced I would lose on much valuable up travel with 14"s. I personally like my ride height low with a sufficient amount of up travel. 14s limit that unless the upper mount sticks out the hood..
That does make sense. I'll have to check my measurements more carefully. I have plenty of times to figure everything out. The work on the front won't be until after the bed cage is done and motor swap
In other news, I spent yesterday hanging out at Lenger Racing to discuss the plan of attack for our Cherokee the have right now. It's always amusing at the shop. The owner's wife was excited to see current pics of how the truck sits after I bought it.
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2008
- Messages
- 182
- Points
- 3,101
- Transmission
- Automatic
This made me laugh my ass off lol! That is not true Radflo. You CAN use a 14" SAW, KINGs, Radflo,
Bilstein ect, and bump metal to metal...Not all of them can be mounted on top of the beam to achieve that but it can/has been done. 12s" or 14s" are preferred but a 14" is ideal.
Last edited:
Thank you. I want to lean toward the 14s so I don't have to buy shocks again if new beams get built in the future.
Uhhh just realized hood pins aren't just for looks....I was bombing thru a field and came to this large (what I thought was a jump) step. It hit hard. Nearly bottomed my bumps and the hood release (for lack of better term) released. Luckily the hood didn't come all the way up. My phone bounced from the cup holder and hit the ceiling lol
Freshly rebuilt Foxs for the rear. Getting ready for Silver Lake in two weeks.
The temporary rear shocks didn't fair so well...the bent one won't compress past the last 5" of travel hahah
The temporary rear shocks didn't fair so well...the bent one won't compress past the last 5" of travel hahah
I like what your doing with your truck and I think your going in the correct direction by buying the 14" coilovers... (Im doing the same thing becasue I dont want to buy another set for future changes ext.) I was told to run 350 over 400 spring rate with the top sring 12 inches long bottom one 16 inches long....
That's what I've been told works as a good starting point. Before I change up the front end I'm going to decide on a motor and trans combo to weigh everything. As of now (keywords) I have ditched the idea of a 5.0 because I'm gonna need a lot more power than that to keep up with my dads build
I've been on the search for a wrecked GTO with the 6.0L LS2 and T56 6 speed manual trans...that should make it move pretty well 
Of course this is all still big thinking for my small budget
I have to sell some of my other toys. My Jeep will be for sale and that will fund the shocks and engine. It has been my baby and it will be sad to see it go but I've had my fun building and wheeling it, now it's time for a new direction.
Either drop low compression pistons and a turbo on your 2.3 or run a supercharged 4.0 sohc motor. I would try to keep the weight down... and of you do go the 5.0 route why not stroke that or run a supercharger on it. Im sure all three of those setups can get you going fast enough to scare the crap out of you. Besides the more weight and power you have the more shit is going to break...
Weight is actually lighter than the 5.0 as the LS2 is all aluminum. The 2.3 would be lighter still but not even close to the power potential of the LS2.
2.3 with turbo and flywheel weighs 380
5.0 WITHOUT accessories weighs 411 so add another 50 lbs with accessories EASY
LS2 6.0 weighs 450 with exhaust manifolds, intake, EFI and accessories (Even A/C
)Granted the LS2 would be the most expensive but it's still the best power to weight ratio. 5.0 would be the cheapest and easiest but also heaviest.
As much as I hated the idea of using a GM motor you can't deny the LS series is great. I have all summer to plan and gather parts so there's plenty of time to think.
Last edited:
Haha I understand your logic, but im a ford fan lol. I heard the 6.0 is alot tighter under the hood. Deff guna be harder to work around it room wize.
What about the simplicity of a 4.0 sohc with a supercharger?
What about the simplicity of a 4.0 sohc with a supercharger?
I never thought I'd even consider a GM motor but I guess that changed. I'll be doing the front shocks at the same time so clearance of the engine cage will be easy.
Simplicity is cool and all but why be simple when you can be absolutely ridiculous? I think an LS2 would be borderline ignorant and that'll be a whole lot of fun
Sponsored Ad
Sponsored Ad
Special Events
TRS Events
Member & Vendor Upgrades
For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.
Recently Featured
TRS Latest Video
TRS Merchandise
Follow TRS On Instagram
