• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Where to begin?


DeathRanger

Active Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
189
Reaction score
98
Points
28
Location
Kansas
Vehicle Year
2000 and 2019
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3 L 4 cyl ecoboost
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
This is my Ranger. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
Where to begin?

This was my 2nd ever Ranger and the one that really drove my passion for Ford Rangers in general. I've owned 3 after this but it's the only one left. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0l V6 Trailhead edition in a pretty rare color of Mandarin Gold Metallic.
Last parked in 2018 with around 198,000 miles after head gasket blew. I'm ready to spend time this summer getting it back running but I admit I've only done basic mechanic work like brakes and oil changes. Long term plan would be full restore. Short term I'm trying to decide best options to get it running.

So what is the best option for engine rebuild/replace and why?
1. Used 3.0l motor swap?
2. Remanufactured Engine?
3. Pull and rebuild existing motor?

1681155299031.jpeg
 


Blmpkn

Toilet enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
5,515
Reaction score
6,372
Points
113
Location
Southern maine
Vehicle Year
2023
Make / Model
Ford Bronco
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
Tire Size
285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
Did the gasket start to leak OUT or was it leaking into the cylinders? If it is/was an external leak and hasn't been sitting for 5 years with water in whatever cylinder/s then you could probably just get away with doing the gaskets and calling it good for awhile. A 3.0 is good for over 300k if all you care about is simple transport. It'll have no power left at that mileage.. but it'll still get you there & back.
 

DeathRanger

Active Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
189
Reaction score
98
Points
28
Location
Kansas
Vehicle Year
2000 and 2019
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3 L 4 cyl ecoboost
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
This is my Ranger. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
Did the gasket start to leak OUT or was it leaking into the cylinders? If it is/was an external leak and hasn't been sitting for 5 years with water in whatever cylinder/s then you could probably just get away with doing the gaskets and calling it good for awhile. A 3.0 is good for over 300k if all you care about is simple transport. It'll have no power left at that mileage.. but it'll still get you there & back.
I'm not really sure the extent of gasket blowout. Engine ran up until it was parked. Truck lost power after using it for towing and moving so I changed oil and it was the dreaded milkshake oil indicating blown gasket.

The truck won't drive far once fixed. I have a commuter vehicle for the 100 mile daily round trip for work.

I would prefer spending a bit more up front now for any work done so I don't have to do the work again in a few years.
 

DeathRanger

Active Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
189
Reaction score
98
Points
28
Location
Kansas
Vehicle Year
2000 and 2019
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3 L 4 cyl ecoboost
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
This is my Ranger. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
so lets just assume water got in cylinders, and heads warped and cracked and this engine is pretty well toast.

Do I have a mechanic rebuild this engine or source a new one?

Are remanufactures engine any good or better to rebuild good shape used engine?
 

Blmpkn

Toilet enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
5,515
Reaction score
6,372
Points
113
Location
Southern maine
Vehicle Year
2023
Make / Model
Ford Bronco
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
Tire Size
285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
Probably won't find a new motor, so reman or rebuild its gonna have to be.

Remans can be hit or miss, but most come with a decent warranty and it's a quicker route to take than a rebuild..
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,363
Reaction score
8,372
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
If you had a "Milkshake" in the oil pan then it would be best to have the engine rebuilt if time is not a factor
The coolant/oil mix can hurt the bearings if it was run for very long that way, I mean a few weeks, not just days
But its also been sitting 4 years +, so I would lean towards rebuild/swap, all the seals will be dried out

Local machine shop can rebuild your engine, but can be 3 to 8 weeks, depends on how busy they are, a good machine shop is usually a busy machine shop
And you will have a local warranty

Doing an engine exchange, i.e. "they" send you a rebuilt 3.0l Vulcan, and you send them back your engine is way faster but costs more
And warranty can be challenged if you are not a professional mechanic, i.e. "Warranty VOID, installation error", so grain of salt, check if DIY installation is allowed

Used is used, lol, 3.0l is a very reliable engine but you would have no history of past issues or maintenance, but it is quick and cheapest option


And at 200k miles I would also have the automatic trans rebuilt if its original, expected life is 250-300k, so closer to the end than the beginning
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
4,005
Reaction score
1,987
Points
113
Location
Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I picked up an Explorer on FB for $750. Likely not the best deal you ever heard of but since the transmission blew I found myself with a spare 4.0 for my Ranger,
After buying a rebuilt transmission off a place in Minnesota and it going bad after maybe 6 months, thank heaven I kept the core, which cost me a couple hundred, but now I also have a spare transmission.
Got a cousin to rebuild the loose one and soon it and the Explorer engine will both be going into the Ranger and I can go to work on having the spares ready.
Plus there's a spare rear differential, front differential and transfer case :D

That gives you both options 1 and 3 :)
 

stmitch

March 2011 STOTM Winner
MTOTM Winner
2011 Truck of The Year
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
2,286
Reaction score
649
Points
113
Location
Central Indiana
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
Machine work/engine rebuilds are time consuming, and labor is expensive. If you've got the time, the money, and want to know who built your engine it's a fine way to go. I'd be surprised if it's much cheaper than a reman though.

If the goal is to get the truck running and driving soon, LKQ will sell you a complete, used Taurus engine with ~125k miles for $465, and ones with ~80k miles are $700. Swap out the manifolds with your stock ones, change the fluids, drop in a fresh cam synchro and get back on the road.

If a 3.0 will go 250k miles, then either of the LKQ options would have decades of life left with your limited use.
 
Last edited:

19Walt93

Well-Known Member
Ford Technician
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Messages
4,526
Reaction score
4,484
Points
113
Location
Canaan,NH
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
351
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
My preference would be to rebuild your current engine, as long as you have a decent machine shop. A "reman" would no doubt be cheaper but I would have no faith in the quality. Jasper builds junk, we fixed a bunch of them at the dealer. Last summer I rebuilt a 390 for a friend that was an 8000 mile, 10 year old ADK or ATK reman installed before he bought the car. It had 2 different cylinder heads, the main bearing clearance was excessive so the crank had to be cut, it had the shorter 428 connecting rods with industrial(read: low compression) 390 pistons that were sunk in the bores .100", killing what little compression it had.
Step one is to tear yours down and see what shape it's in, then you can make a good decision.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Mudtruggy
May Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top