want to get my ranger to 200hp... any suggestions?

[2004ranger]

i think they have said its 10hp per.1L correct me if im wrong it would be decent power and torque but just so expensive. i have tried getting a hold of Tom morana but i cant so i dont know if he is still around. so if im not mistaken the 3.3L would push it to 180 to the crank gotta be careful with my numbers though since the number nazi is after me

 

[SK33T3R]

The biggest cone filter you can find, a fart-can muffler, and a tornado intake insert should put you right at 200. 17in. rims and a body kit will give you even more.

Don't forget the SRH sticker in the back window adds 15 HP and bro goggles hanging from the rear view add 5 HP and improves steering response.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Well, a rough estimate would be to divide the horsepower figure by 3 and multiply by 3.3. But, this will likely be a slight over-estimate. Because as displacement increases, you will have to also build the rest of the engine to take full advantage of it. So, if you plug in a respectible 125hp from 3.0L you should see 137.5hp. If the heads and valvetrain don't change, a displacement increase usually increases the peak torque number while lowering the rpm that it reaches its peak. I think the 3.3L stroker would be a good option for a ranger based vehicle or 4x4 because of the extra torque it could provide.

 

[2004ranger]

ah nice explanation. thanks for that

 

[sycophuk]

wipple supercharger. oh and by the way in the ultma gtr(exotic kit roller )is a twin turbocharged 3.0 ford v6

 

[fleck]

wipple supercharger. oh and by the way in the ultma gtr(exotic kit roller )is a twin turbocharged 3.0 ford v6

lol where did u hear that bs

 

[rurouni20xx]

this is a quote from the last email i got from morana on the 3.3 kit:

Edwin,

The max hp. when your heads are ported (Stage 3+) with larger valves, heavier springs, hot cam,roller rockers, 11.1 compression, you should get about 240 hp.

Fully boosted (15-20 lbs.)will yield approx 350-375 hp. @ 9.1 compression.

To attain the 300 hp. range...you're looking at about 10-15 lbs. boost

As for the double rolling timing chain...it'll be a while yet (perhaps in the Spring)

Tom Morana,
Morana Racing Engines

im doing the turbo cuz i want 300 ponies in the future, but if you want 240 from naturally aspirated theres your answer. the rest is in the headers exhaust and porting.

 

[fleck]

The max hp. when your heads are ported (Stage 3+) with larger valves, heavier springs, hot cam,roller rockers, 11.1 compression, you should get about 240 hp.

if you want 240 from naturally aspirated theres your answer. the rest is in the headers exhaust and porting.

yeah but it's been said that this setup wouldn't be streetable (DD)?

 

[rurouni20xx]

why wouldnt it be? premium fuel of course and legal exhaust work i dont see why, any properly tuned engine can pass emissions if thats the worry. if you can turbocharge a honda, supercharge a mustang, or build the motor on an el camino whats the dif in building up the motor on a ranger and putting it on the hwy? i dont see what the issue would be, i think it would be a great street/strip package to be honest. granted your mileage may suck but as far as longevity if you are using it as a daily driver and your parts are designed for such abuse but not put it thru the abuse i think the motor would outlast the original oe design. if tuned properly and taken care of i honestly dont see you having any problems out of it except for normal wear and tear (water pump alternator starter the usual maintenance). as far as a cam being wound out for the hp and making idle a pain i dont think youd have to do the whole loping rad cam to make that much hp, i think you could get away w/ a mild cam, and even if u did need the loping cam just idle it up a hair if its a stick, if its an automatic just install a higher stall tq convertor and youll be fine. just make sure the oil pump is pumping at the idle rpm, thats the biggest concern.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

a high compression engine with a high duration cam will have a poor (lumpy) idle and low power output at normal driving RPMs. it "can" be driven on the street, but it may not be very fun (depending on how crazy you get). if you get too carried away with it, it WONT pass emissions (itll have high HC at idle due to not burning off all of the fuel).

 

[turbo cat]

A large cam with alot of overlap alows "blow thru" of the fuel charge. It lets more air in when the motors turning 6000rpms but at low throttle low rev conditions the drivability/emmissions/economy sucks due to poor vaccum and reduced port velocity. A boosted application can make big power on a stock cam so you can have the best of boh worlds...good economy/big torque and power/passing emmisions.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Thats why you have a specificly built cam for forced induction. It is designed to make/build more power on top USING the forced air instead of valve overlap to draw in air like an N/A motor. There's a difference.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

250HP is attainable with the stock cam using boost. the stock bottom end wont handle much more than that reliably, so changing the cam to a more "turbo friendly" version only means youll have to turn the boost down to save the motor.

leave the motor stock and use a turbo. nothing else is even close to cost effective.

the limiting factor here is the bottom end. how you get there is up to you. you could spend thousands and thousands of dollars building a 250 HP N/A motor that is barely streetable and gets bad mileage. or you can spend about a grand (at the most) on a turbo and have a perfectly street driveable vehicle that gets nearly the same economy it gets now....its up to you.

 

[rurouni20xx]

250HP is attainable with the stock cam using boost. the stock bottom end wont handle much more than that reliably, so changing the cam to a more "turbo friendly" version only means youll have to turn the boost down to save the motor.

leave the motor stock and use a turbo. nothing else is even close to cost effective.

the limiting factor here is the bottom end. how you get there is up to you. you could spend thousands and thousands of dollars building a 250 HP N/A motor that is barely streetable and gets bad mileage. or you can spend about a grand (at the most) on a turbo and have a perfectly street driveable vehicle that gets nearly the same economy it gets now....its up to you.

i agree, dollar per hp its def easier/cheaper this way. at least like this you dont have to undo (or even remove) the motor. the most work is plumbing, getting the turbo and controller, flipping the manifolds, and tuning it out.

 

[Viper Command]

please note: any parts that are not oem replacement can not be used in CA. unless the have a c.a.r.b. exempt tag no.