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transmission is leaking, what to do???


brett1989

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Alright my trans has overdrive, so im guessing its the A4LD. As soon as i start my truck it starts to leak pretty bad at the bell housing, does that mean my seal is shot in there? im going to try a quart of lucas to see if it does anything if not ill have to pull it out and replace things. Any tips are greatly appreciated even ones on how to pull the trans without a lift
 


Sasquatch_Ryda

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Could be the pump seal, the torque converter seal/bushing or a pinhole in the welds on the torque converter itself.
 

jhammel85

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Could be the pump seal, the torque converter seal/bushing or a pinhole in the welds on the torque converter itself.
^ This is exactly what I was going to say. It's most likely the pump seal. I would really check there 1st.

I wouldn't rely on the Lucas oil too much. If it has a bad seal should be replaced.
 
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brett1989

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How bad is it to replace the seal? i know i would have to pull the trans, but after i take off the torque converter is it hard to replace?
 

brett1989

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I just need the trans to last until i can get everything together for my 350 sbc swap, they say it fits better than a 302 dont even have to modify the frame rails and the chevy motor mounts work
 

AaronC47

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Pulling the transmission

I had 3 different Explorers about 3 yrs ago, I acquired them for parts and scrapped the shell. Needless to say I had more than my share of pulling the trans, the motors, etc.
You say you wont have a trans jack ? If you going to do this alone I would suggest this order,

1. If you can get vehicle on 4 jack stands on hard level surface, that will help ALOT.

2. Drop rear drive line. Have drain pan handy for fluid to drain off to. As that drains remove exhaust at the catalytic converter, Then remove the exhaust "Y" pipe. If you dont remove Y pipe you will fight it and get no where.

3. disconnect shift cable, Trans fluid lines, and kick down linkage, and the electrical plugs

4. Remove transfer case from transmission. Have drain pan handy for fluid leakage.


5. Loosen bolts on trans cross member, If you need to slide it out of way to remove transfer case, be sure to slide it back under the trans and reinstall bolt about half way on passenger side rail frame, this will help hold transmission while you get it ready to drop it down, ensure the driver side of the cross member is still hooked on inside of frame rail.

6. To remove bolts in bell housing I suggest about 2 or 3 feet of extensions and a swivel.

7. After all bolts are out from bellhousing, then the trans is really close to being ready to come down. For my own safety, since I was doing these alone with no one else around, I found really long "ratchet tie down straps" at least 3 of them. The hook away from the ratchet, feed it up and over one side frame rail from outter side and going towards center of truck, and come down under the transmission, leaving extra slack for a bit, then go up to other frame rail from inside going to outter side of frame and back under to center of truck. Feed strap thru ratchet as needed and take the hooks and hook them together. leave the ratchet assembly closer to a frame instead of the center. Now take a 2nd strap and do the same thing but at the other end of transmission. Pretty much what I did was have 2 straps holding it suspended, loosen the third let it dangle a few inches under the trans somewhere safe, BUT ensure it is ratcheted and WONT SLIP WHEN WEIGHT OF TRANS IS SET IN IT. and just go back and forth one end then the other slowly letting it down, and I had used the cross member to help hold it up and keep it from wanting to roll over. I realize this seems rather "redneckish" and kind of not safe, but I had no one to help and I had to improvise to get it done. Lower the trans down into 2 straps, and pretty soon it will be down alot more safely than trying to muscle it down and it landing on your chest or face.


8. To reinstall if your alone use the straps again to slowly raise the trans back into place. You will need to keep sliding and adjusting angles and directions, but if your alone doing this at least its somewhat of a safe feeling having it cradled in the straps.



I hope this helps someone else. And ANYTIME your doing a trans or engine swap or fix, ALWAYS REPLACE the Rear Main seal in the engine and the front seal on the transmission. It will save you ALOT of frustration, and aggrevation and cussing, and the thought of kicking your own butt for not doing it way back when you had the best chance.


FYI,,,,,, This is all from my own experience, I realize there are risks involved, and you should know that as well. The repair described here is always risky when working alone. The safe work environment is to never work alone if there is a chance of injury or death.

The seal is a piece of cake compared to dropping trans and all this. get the old seal out with screwdriver or scribe, just be careful to not scar the metal surfaces. when you drive new one back in use a soft hammer if you can, or just make sure you drive it in as straight as possible and be careful to not ding the new seal.
 
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