Things I have learned.

[Dave R]

The engine cranks but no spark.

If your sure you've got power to the TFI module, then double check your engine ground, that one has tripped me up before. Then again, there's coil wiring to consider also.

 

[AllanD]

Let me put it this way. My 4X4 short bed '84 Ranger has been sitting in my driveway for almost a year. I have gone to 4 yards numerous times and haven't seen a shortbed Ranger period. I went to the local Ford dealer and asked about interchange and he said no other fuel lines will fit my truck. He also said fuel lines to fit my truck are obsolete and no longer available. I even fibed and asked for the same in a '85. again no.
Grab your J.C.Whitney catalog and look up Ranger gas tanks. It'll say "eccept 4X4".

Ford parts countermen only accept EXACT fit you need to ask someone who can tell you what "ecclectic" combinations of parts can be MADE to fit.

as for the fuel tank you needed a "large louphole" fuel tank and those are available shiny new at your nearest Shucks/Kragen/Checker/advanced auto parts for about $120.


There are also incremental differences in fuel lines, the '85-86 EFI used a reservoir cannister. The '87-88 used a slightly different reservoir cannister and added an inline filter forward of the frame mounted pump.
The frame mounted pump WILL fit (it mounts inside the frame where the radius arm bracket attaches).

If you have used an in tank HP fuel pump you MUST remove the reservoir cannister as it is NOT designed to handle the line pressure, and it will probably "pop" if you have mounted an inline fuel filter (FG-800 type) forward.

Frankly I think you are better off with the intank fuel pump.

But as for saying that you were misinformed just ain't right.
you simply didn't ask the right questions... yet.

Also if you have a crank, no-start situation the FIRST place to look is at the ground wires in the harness next to the EEC module (PCM).

As for using the "later" (1989-up) fuel tanks? to do so requires REPLACING one of the frame crossmembers and modifying another, but it can be done, I did it.

AD

 

[Turbo-T]

To your first statement, "I ain't found him yet". As for the fuel tank I created my own "large louphole" tank for about $30.
Yup. Had both of those plastic canisters. Tossed'em. Got that big arsse filter mounted right in front of the tank. The frame mount pump (got 2 of'em) won't fit there because that's where the brake proportioning valve is located.
I was told on this website my old tank would work.
I do appreciate your advice. Where were you a year ago before I started this project. There's not a lot of info here about the '83-'84 Rangers any more.

 

[briansz]

This is a really informative thread. I don't know about 4X4 tanks, but I can tell you I got an '88 short box tank to fit into my '83 longbed with an hour or so of strategic 'mallet modification'. I really had to beat the snot out of it in order to clear the frame crossmember, but it can be done, it's in there at the moment with the low-pressure in-tank pump running the current carbed engine. Now that it's running I may just break down and pick up the right tank new before I install the turbo motor.

I don't know where you are, but send a couple longbeds my way. They run 1 or 2 to 10 in the junkyards here.

What I am really curious to know is how you connected the alternator wiring in the 84 to the alternator from the newer 2.3t. I have all my parts lined up for the swap and this is the only part I'm having a little trouble visualizing.

Thanks!

Brian

 

[Dave R]

Does the '84 still use an external regulator or something?

What is the difference in alternator wiring?

Gee, if you want to get picky I've got a '90 short box 4x2 fuel tank in my mutant 4x4 plow truck. But for me it was just a matter of making the 4x2 fuel tank crossmembers fit the 4x4 Bronco frame and then mounting the tank with the original straps. Too bad I didn't step back 10 feet or so and look at the finished tank installation. The whole tank hangs down about 6+" below the frame in the back. Maybe next year I'll pull it apart and move the tank up into the space above it. I had to fab a custom fuel filler hose assembly. DAMN large diameter fuel filler hose ain't cheap.

 

[briansz]

Dave R, I believe it does. I will have to go down and look at the truck to be sure, but I distinctly remember a little chrome regulator-looking box under the hood on one of the inner fenders/splash guards.

Brian

 

[Turbo-T]

IT LIIIVES!!!!! I got it started today. Found a wire that wasn't hooked up and 2 crossed plug wires.
I was told The power wire to the coil for the carbed engine is a resistor wire. Not so. Used it to power the TFI and coil.
After I got it started I goosed the throttle a couple of times. It blew the guts out of the cat. I knew the thing was in bad shape. I was hoping it would get me through DEQ (sniff test).
All I've got left is the heater box and taping up all the wires.

 

[anupaum]

Good for you! Enjoy a cold one and congratulations!

 

[Dave R]

See, that wasn't so bad now was it. There might actually be a resistor wire in the coil run circuit. At least there was in the wiring for my '79 Bronco. It looks like any normal wire except that it says "Resistor wire, do not cut" all along it's length.

Are you going to have to buy a Cat. now?

 

[Turbo-T]

I checked the coil wire with a volt meter and it had full battery voltage.
The '83-'84 Rangers have a regulator mounted on the left fender. I can't find it right now but there is a website that tells you how to swap a 130 amp G3 alt into them.
Oh, the truck sounds great. 21/4 in down pipe, 21/2 in through the cat and out the back. the muffler is a 30 in glass pack. where a Ricer would go BRAAAP!, the truck has a nice throaty BRUUUP! I love it.

 

[Dave R]

I checked the coil wire with a volt meter and it had full battery voltage.

Since it's a fairly low value resistor your never going to see it on a volt meter unless you put a load on it. Or did you test it while the engine was running? (coil loaded)

 

[Turbo-T]

Uh, never thought of that, DaveR. Either way, it runs.

 

[briansz]

I checked the coil wire with a volt meter and it had full battery voltage.
The '83-'84 Rangers have a regulator mounted on the left fender. I can't find it right now but there is a website that tells you how to swap a 130 amp G3 alt into them.

Thanks for the direction, with 15 mins of Googling or so, this is just what the doctor ordered. Diagrams and pictures of everything, all generations:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/

Brian

 

[Turbo-T]

More electrical problems. The engine didn't want to start. It would crank and sput-sput but no start. sometimes if I released the key at just the right time it would catch and run. If I used a remote start switch it would fire right up. I put the coil, TFI power and a wire that runs to the ECM. Mistake. Now it starts rught up but runs like crap.
Looks like I'll have more time to work on it. the company I work(ed) for shut the doors a week ago. Being unemployed at 62 is not good.

 

[Turbo-T]

Update. I had put the coil, TFI power and power to the ECM on the old coil wire. The ECM didn't like it. Ran like crap. The only other wire was hot at key on but had a voltage drop when the key was turned to start. I ended up changing the start relay for an older one with an ignition hot lug. I ran a wire from the ignition hot lug to the wire to the ECM. It works.
I managed to patch the heater box today. I recommend not cutting on the heater box until you're ready to put it back in. I cut it first thing and the suggested amount was to much.