Spray Painting and Clear Coating my new Tailgate.

[Angry Possum]

I'm looking to spray paint a new tailgate replacement for my 93 Ranger XLT, the tailgate came primed already. Does anybody here have experience with DIY spraying a car part? Can it look decent if done right? I really don't want to spend $300. It seems like it's way overpriced for such a small part to paint.

 

[franklin2]

That's small enough and a separate piece, so you could do it with spray cans. Only thing is, you have to work at it more with spray cans. They have to make the paint very thin to spray out of a spray can, so it takes lots of coats, and you may need to color sand it before you put the clear on it, since sometimes the spray can finish turns out a little rough.

So lots of coats, a little color sanding, and then a couple heavy coats of clear may get it. You can then let it dry for about a month, if it looks good enough you can leave it, or if you are not happy with the finish, you can lightly buff the clear with some buffing compound. But go lightly so you do not go through to the color coat.

 

[Lefty]

I'm looking to spray paint a new tailgate replacement for my 93 Ranger XLT, the tailgate came primed already. Does anybody here have experience with DIY spraying a car part? Can it look decent if done right? I really don't want to spend $300. It seems like it's way overpriced for such a small part to paint.

I primed and sprayed a friend's Ranger with Rustoleum which was a very close match to Ford black. It came out rather well. Three base coats were protected by three coats clear. I'm not sure how long it will last but it came through the winter just fine.

I would recommend that you try NAPA. There's one in our area which mixes paint in aerosol cans. They do an excellent job matching in. They would need a batch number which the dealer will ;provide when you give them a vin #. NAPA went ahead and fine tuned the color from there. They have 3 different systems based on how much you are willing to spend. It sounds like you are looking for the cheapest or medium quality job.

There are plenty of tutorials on the subject. They recommend sanding the prime coat with 400 grit before painting. Wash the surface well with a microfiber rag after. Let dry. Spray only when the wind, temperature, and humidity permit. Spray in long straight strokes with a 50% overlap.

I recommend 3 base coats. Maybe 2. Wet sand and wash after each coat thoroughly dries (overnight) using an 800 grit pad or 1000. Sand the last coat with a thousand or finer. The entire surface should appear uniformly smooth with no dry spots or abrasion marks.

The clear coat goes on much faster. Many systems recommend a second and third coat as soon as the first flashes off. Wait a few days, then buff off.

The truck on the right was professionally painted. The one on the left was Rustoleum with an acrylic clear coat. It's less than perfect, but then again, it's a working man's truck.

Another friend bashed in his rear bumper. He bought a "new" one at the junkyard which was painted with the medium priced NAPA paint system. It looks just as good as new for about $250.00. BTW the fender flares on my truck were painted with Rustoleum. They seem to be holding up well.

 

[Angry Possum]

Cool thanks guys, I think I may attempt it. Im gonna purchase a really good clear coat, as the one shown in this video. I believe it's called Eastwood 2K. $20 a can.

 

[Angry Possum]

I primed and sprayed a friend's Ranger with Rustoleum which was a very close match to Ford black. It came out rather well. Three base coats were protected by three coats clear. I'm not sure how long it will last but it came through the winter just fine.

I would recommend that you try NAPA. There's one in our area which mixes paint in aerosol cans. They do an excellent job matching in. They would need a batch number which the dealer will ;provide when you give them a vin #. NAPA went ahead and fine tuned the color from there. They have 3 different systems based on how much you are willing to spend. It sounds like you are looking for the cheapest or medium quality job.

There are plenty of tutorials on the subject. They recommend sanding the prime coat with 400 grit before painting. Wash the surface well with a microfiber rag after. Let dry. Spray only when the wind, temperature, and humidity permit. Spray in long straight strokes with a 50% overlap.

I recommend 3 base coats. Maybe 2. Wet sand and wash after each coat thoroughly dries (overnight) using an 800 grit pad or 1000. Sand the last coat with a thousand or finer. The entire surface should appear uniformly smooth with no dry spots or abrasion marks.

The clear coat goes on much faster. Many systems recommend a second and third coat as soon as the first flashes off. Wait a few days, then buff off.View attachment 98065
The truck on the right was professionally painted. The one on the left was Rustoleum with an acrylic clear coat. It's less than perfect, but then again, it's a working man's truck.

Another friend bashed in his rear bumper. He bought a "new" one at the junkyard which was painted with the medium priced NAPA paint system. It looks just as good as new for about $250.00. BTW the fender flares on my truck were painted with Rustoleum. They seem to be holding up well.

View attachment 98066

Wow, That bumper on the Impala came out really nice. Good job.

 

[Lefty]

I would avoid Duplicolor in those little cans. It will take at least 2 for one coat, maybe 3. It gets expensive fast just like the video suggested.

A good Napa paint store would match the color better and mix the paint into 12 0z aerosol cans for the very same price.

They also sell a 12 oz can of Duplicolor acrylic clearcoat. Napa has a 2K product just like Eastwood but without the shipping.

 

[Angry Possum]

I would avoid Duplicolor in those little cans. It will take at least 2 for one coat, maybe 3. It gets expensive fast just like the video suggested.

A good Napa paint store would match the color better and mix the paint into 12 0z aerosol cans for the very same price.

They also sell a 12 oz can of Duplicolor acrylic clearcoat. Napa has a 2K product just like Eastwood but without the shipping.

The duplicolor clear coat is garbage (watch that video above). However I may consider NAPAs color, thanks. I'll be using the Eastwood Clear Coat 2K most likely.

My trucks color is Vermillion red. So on the tailgate I may use a different color red to change it up a tad, maybe Chili Pepper or Scarlett Red.

 

[Lefty]

The duplicolor clear coat is garbage (watch that video above). However I may consider NAPAs color, thanks. I'll be using the Eastwood Clear Coat 2K most likely.

My trucks color is Vermillion red. So on the tailgate I may use a different color red to change it up a tad, maybe Chili Pepper or Scarlett Red.

I would prefer to use all 2K: primer, paint, and clear coat. This is the top of the line, the most forgiving, and longest lasting. But then again, it costs more.

 

[Angry Possum]

Turns out a friend at the body shop near me is going to spray the tailgate for $200. A no brainer. Let the pros do it. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[Lefty]

Turns out a friend at the body shop near me is going to spray the tailgate for $200. A no brainer. Let the pros do it. Thanks everyone for your input.

That's probably the best. You could have spent that anyway on rattle cans, maybe less, but with less than stellar results.

 

[Angry Possum]

That's probably the best. You could have spent that anyway on rattle cans, maybe less, but with less than stellar results.

Yeah no doubt. . One day I'll experiment if I have too.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yeah no doubt. . One day I'll experiment if I have too.

With a solid color paint, I would consider doing it. Metallic paint, never again. Getting the paint to blend and polish correctly was a nightmare.

 

[Angry Possum]

With a solid color paint, I would consider doing it. Metallic paint, never again. Getting the paint to blend and polish correctly was a nightmare.

Mine is just a tailgate, so I would of done it myself, but for the price it was a score. But I hear you on the metallic paint etc.

 

[Angry Possum]

The finished product.
The original dealer badge , The original Ford badge. And I added the 4x4 badge. They did an awesome job painting it for just $200.

The New Tailgate was $118, New Plexiglass $103 and New Year Window Eagle Decal $38.

 

[Blmpkn]

How much did the original dealership pay you to have their badge put back on for advertising?