SOLVED - O/D Off Button not working - No O/D Off light on dash when button is pushed.

[RonD]

OD OFF light should still work with missing engine, even missing transmission, but not missing battery

Anyway back to the OP's issue

You said the tech turned steering wheel back and forth and OD OFF light started to work.............................................
I am not an engineer but..........................
Problem could be in steering column

As someone said before, look at videos on Ranger steering column disassembly, its not hard and you just need basic hand tools

 

[saxtech]

OD OFF light should still work with missing engine, even missing transmission, but not missing battery

Anyway back to the OP's issue

You said the tech turned steering wheel back and forth and OD OFF light started to work.............................................
I am not an engineer but..........................
Problem could be in steering column

As someone said before, look at videos on Ranger steering column disassembly, its not hard and you just need basic hand tools

Im going to pull that steering column clam shell apart after work today. I found a video and it looks so easy. I'll report back if I find a bare wire.... If the OD off switch wire is bare, wouldn't it pop a fuse though?

 

[fastpakr]

I think you're more likely to find a loose connection than a bare wire.

 

[RonD]

+1 on the loose connection

i.e. it works and then doesn't
that's not a "bare wire" or broken wire, its a loose wire or dirty connection

 

[saxtech]

+1 on the loose connection

i.e. it works and then doesn't
that's not a "bare wire" or broken wire, its a loose wire or dirty connection

Well.... I pulled the upper clam-shell cover on the column apart today. I was able to access the upper portion of the steering column only.... So I found the wire coming out of the gear selector lever and I wiggled it. I did not see any bare wires. But when I wiggled it, I was able to get the OD Off Light to illuminate.... YAY - I found the problem... I put a little insulation over the wire coming out of the lever (I just stripped a spare heavy gauged wire I had and used its insulation after slitting it.).... I slipped it over the wire coming from the lever and buttoned it back up.... With the clam shell covers back in place and secured, I Tested it and IT DID NOT WORK AGAIN..... Ughhh ! :-( I took it back apart and wiggled the wire some more. Got it to light up again but then it stopped again. So I am kinda sure it is a possible broken or brittle wire coming out of the gear selector lever although I saw no bare or broken wires within the shrink insulation of this cable coming from the gear selector lever.. I could not see where this wire went to under the dash as the removed clam shell cover did not allow me enough visibility to see much farther than past the tilt lever or past the face of the dash....

So now I need to find "Instructions" on how to change the gear selector lever and I need a visual explanation as to where this wire goes. This will give me the confidence I need to order a new gear selector lever with the built-in TCS (O/D Off Button) and the wire harness coming out of the lever or pay the shop I first visited, $100 labor to change the gear selector lever with the O/D Off switch and harness. (He wanted $160 total to change the lever - parts and labor)

Please point me to a link to continue disassembling the dash to find the other end of the wire coming out of the gear selector lever. And possibly an Amazon link to a new Ford OEM Gear Selector lever with built in O/D Off Switch and harness for a 2003 Ranger XLT Extended Cab with 3.0 Flex Fuel and Auto.

 

[Bgunner]

Before changing the gear shifter hit up youtube for the video on changing it. It will show where the connection for the TCS button is. This is more likely where the problem is than the wire being broken inside the casing.

Once the connector is found make sure the connections are clean by taking the connection apart and use the cleaner you used on the button. Next be sure all wires entering both ends of the conectors are locked and secure in place. Next look at the metal connectors inside them for any visible damage like the female side being larger than the others or the Male side being bent or broken.

If no visible damage put the connector back together and test. If it is working put the clamshell back on and test again.

Dont just change out the shifter without knowing the exact cause of the issue. Its wasting money.

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Wow. You ARE bored today.

engine is missing

That would explain why his check engine light has been on!

 

[97RangerXLT]

Well.... I pulled the upper clam-shell cover on the column apart today. I was able to access the upper portion of the steering column only.... So I found the wire coming out of the gear selector lever and I wiggled it. I did not see any bare wires. But when I wiggled it, I was able to get the OD Off Light to illuminate.... YAY - I found the problem... I put a little insulation over the wire coming out of the lever (I just stripped a spare heavy gauged wire I had and used its insulation after slitting it.).... I slipped it over the wire coming from the lever and buttoned it back up.... With the clam shell covers back in place and secured, I Tested it and IT DID NOT WORK AGAIN..... Ughhh ! :-( I took it back apart and wiggled the wire some more. Got it to light up again but then it stopped again. So I am kinda sure it is a possible broken or brittle wire coming out of the gear selector lever although I saw no bare or broken wires within the shrink insulation of this cable coming from the gear selector lever.. I could not see where this wire went to under the dash as the removed clam shell cover did not allow me enough visibility to see much farther than past the tilt lever or past the face of the dash....

So now I need to find "Instructions" on how to change the gear selector lever and I need a visual explanation as to where this wire goes. This will give me the confidence I need to order a new gear selector lever with the built-in TCS (O/D Off Button) and the wire harness coming out of the lever or pay the shop I first visited, $100 labor to change the gear selector lever with the O/D Off switch and harness. (He wanted $160 total to change the lever - parts and labor)

Please point me to a link to continue disassembling the dash to find the other end of the wire coming out of the gear selector lever. And possibly an Amazon link to a new Ford OEM Gear Selector lever with built in O/D Off Switch and harness for a 2003 Ranger XLT Extended Cab with 3.0 Flex Fuel and Auto.

glad you found the general area of the issue... as for taking apart the lower part of the dash, you likely only need to take off the kick plate and the metal plate underneath it. you will need a 7mm nut driver for the lower panel and an 8mm socket for the metal plate underneath it. (those 8mm bolts are fairly tight) pretty straight forward, although ttwo of the 7mm bolts also hold the hood release on, just let it swing down and ignore it.

A suggestion for confidence building... if you have a pull apart or any kind of you pull you pay junk yards, fill a 5 gallon bucket with basic tools (combination wrench set, socket set, assorted screwdrivers and assorted pliers and wire cutters, a hammer, maybe even a 3 lb mini sledge, your volt/ ohm meter, and a camera/ or your cell phone and hit up a similar year Ranger in the yard. most of the dash stuff is fairly similar from 95-00, and then again from 01-05 or 06. with many of the parts interchangeable from 95-11. but anyways, don't even go to get a part, go to take it apart. Not your truck, not your worries, and it will give you skills without breaking your truck, and you will learn any little tricks on the parts truck. take your camera and take pictures of it as you take it apart, you can refer back to it when you work on yours.

AJ

 

[saxtech]

glad you found the general area of the issue... as for taking apart the lower part of the dash, you likely only need to take off the kick plate and the metal plate underneath it. you will need a 7mm nut driver for the lower panel and an 8mm socket for the metal plate underneath it. (those 8mm bolts are fairly tight) pretty straight forward, although ttwo of the 7mm bolts also hold the hood release on, just let it swing down and ignore it.


AJ

So today, I pulled the kick panels (along with the steering column clam shell again). I followed the OD Off Switch wire coming from the gear selector lever down under the dash. I found several tight clamps along the way to the connector plug going into a large diameter harness. I untucked the OD TCS wire from the clamps and I unplugged the wire from the connector plug going into the large wire harness. I found no lose connection at the plug. I saw a few pinched areas on the TCS wire insulation and I tried to pull those tiny slits back with my fingernail and I could see the wire underneath the insulation without having to "cut" the insulation back. (not sure if there were severed strands under these tiny slits from the clamps and rubbing) I brought the TCS wire out from under the dash and re-routed it back "in front" of the dash temporarily for easy access and plugged it back into the connector going into the large wiring harness plug.... I then turned the truck on and tested the button to see if it worked. NOTHING... It still did not light up :-( . So I was not sure if the TCS button was faulty or if the tiny slits were causing a current drop. So I left the dash apart and went inside, called the parts department at Ford, and ordered a new Automatic Trans Lever Assembly - Part number 7L5Z-7210-AA. This new OEM Ford Lever will have the built in TCS (O/D Off Switch) and the wire assembled into the new OEM lever. Certainly I can't go wrong at this point for 68 dollars with tax total... I did find a lever/switch assy. on the auction site for much less, but it would have taken a week or more for delivery. I'll pick the new lever assembly up this week from the local Ford dealer and hopefully will be able to report back here, my results by Friday night (fingers crossed).

By the way - an aftermarket "Dorman" brand lever assembly was the same price at Autozone. So I went with OEM Ford.

 

[ericbphoto]

or if the tiny slits were causing a current drop.

They won't/ can't do that.

So I went with OEM Ford

Good choice.

 

[saxtech]

So today, I pulled the kick panels (along with the steering column clam shell again). I followed the OD Off Switch wire coming from the gear selector lever down under the dash. I found several tight clamps along the way to the connector plug going into a large diameter harness. I untucked the OD TCS wire from the clamps and I unplugged the wire from the connector plug going into the large wire harness. I found no lose connection at the plug. I saw a few pinched areas on the TCS wire insulation and I tried to pull those tiny slits back with my fingernail and I could see the wire underneath the insulation without having to "cut" the insulation back. (not sure if there were severed strands under these tiny slits from the clamps and rubbing) I brought the TCS wire out from under the dash and re-routed it back "in front" of the dash temporarily for easy access and plugged it back into the connector going into the large wiring harness plug.... I then turned the truck on and tested the button to see if it worked. NOTHING... It still did not light up :-( . So I was not sure if the TCS button was faulty or if the tiny slits were causing a current drop. So I left the dash apart and went inside, called the parts department at Ford, and ordered a new Automatic Trans Lever Assembly - Part number 7L5Z-7210-AA. This new OEM Ford Lever will have the built in TCS (O/D Off Switch) and the wire assembled into the new OEM lever. Certainly I can't go wrong at this point for 68 dollars with tax total... I did find a lever/switch assy. on the auction site for much less, but it would have taken a week or more for delivery. I'll pick the new lever assembly up this week from the local Ford dealer and hopefully will be able to report back here, my results by Friday night (fingers crossed).

By the way - an aftermarket "Dorman" brand lever assembly was the same price at Autozone. So I went with OEM Ford.

So last night, I changed the Automatic Transmission Gear Selector Lever Assembly - Part number 7L5Z-7210-AA.
Everything is now fixed. Problem solved. The O/D Off Light on the dash comes on with the press of the TCS button and the transmission downshifts out of overdrive when the button is activated also. So everything is now good !!

I still do not know if the actual button switch in the gear selector lever was faulty, or if the wire was faulty, or both.
The area that I wiggled the wire previously, to get the O/D Off Dash light to illuminate, was closest to where the wire exits the bottom of the gear selector arm. I did not see any breaks or anything else that caused alarm in that area. I am pretty sure, the connector under the dash, was not the culprit because it was not there, that I wiggled the wire to get the dash light to come on for a short second or two. After the wire exits the gear selector arm, it is clamped in at least 3 places before it goes under the dash to the connector plug. There is no way the wiggle effect could have reached under the dash with the wire being clamped in numerous places before it got to the connector. So my guess is that either the button switch (TCS) was faulty, or the wire immediately exiting the bottom of the gear selector arm, was faulty. Possibly, the wiggle effect could have transmitted up into the arm and thus, affected the button switch connection "in the arm". But I do not know for sure. I could not pull the button switch (TCS) out of the top of the gear selector lever to see anything.

So I'm thrilled that this repair only cost me under $68.00 total with tax for an OEM Ford Lever/Switch/Wire assembly. And the job was done correctly and neatly and everything was secured properly and clamped well again.

Thank you EVERYONE for your patience with me and for all of your advice.
Gary

 

[saxtech]

I found a video online for most of the procedure to remove the Auto Trans Gear Selector Arm.... I took screen shots of the video and typed out the instructions so you can have a printed instruction sheet.
Here is the tutorial to remove the Gear Selector Arm in case anyone else needs confidence to tackle this job.
It is a PDF so I hope it works here for everyone to access.

 

[txgocartB3000#2]

Way to go, good job.

Ray

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for the update and THE FIX

 

[ericbphoto]

Congratulations!