irishblessing
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yeah its usaully a vacccum leak can i ask whats rough about the idle
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Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure what I'm going to do just yet. I sprayed all around the hoses and intake gasket again today to double check for a leak.If your going to see the mechanic Tues, then I highly suggest you get the injectors flowed while it sits for a few days. It should be around $25 an injector ($150 for all). This will help out a lot, but may not be the probelm. I think its a vacuum hose.
Thanks for the link. I checked it out. Those guys seem like they know injectors. Lots of good info there. I'm going to think on it for awhile. I'm not sure what I will end up doing. I don't want to get in over my head mechanically. It doesn't seem like it would be too complicated though.If you can determine if the roughness is coming from one cylinder then you could switch out it's injector with one from another cylinder and see if the problem moves to the other cylinder. To do this I think you'll need to pull the entire fuel rail - sooo, maybe just do as aeraceranthony says and get all 6 flow tested and corrected if necessary. I used http://www.witchhunter.com/
It is a pulsating/quivering idle. It feels rough then a little quiver then rough some more then another shake or two and so on..yeah its usaully a vacccum leak can i ask whats rough about the idle
Engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) will cause richer mixture when engineWhen I start it for the first time to go to work at 2:30 in the afternoon the cold idle IS rough. When I start it up to go home at 11:30 at night the outside temp is much cooler and the cold start idle is MUCH smoother. Does this tell me anything?
I'll try to find some specs on it myself and test it. Still not sure I will get it to the mechanic. I am starting to wonder what he can do that I have'nt already tried. Of course, he does have more experience and I am not even close to being a mechanic...LOLEngine coolant temp sensor (ECT) will cause richer mixture when engine
cold(er), so in cold weather/cold start it will mask lean burn condition until engine warms. Your year does not have an IAT (intake air temperature sensor). I can't find testing specs in my Haynes as you could test it without removing it. The electrical resistance changes with temperature. It is located on top of the intake manifold next to the upper rad hose connection to the manifold and will have two wires going to it. I don't think it's very expensive. You'll need to drain the rad first and either use teflon tape or liquid sealant (I prefer) to install the new one. If your mecahnic could give you the temp/resistance specs you could get engine to full operating temp and test it.