Picked up a few more shafts to build up a spare set.
Did a little comparing as well.
From left to right:
Ford stub, Ford short side set, Chebby short side set, Dodge short side set, EB short side set, EB long side set.
Notice the Ford inner is 5/8" longer than the EB and 1/2" longer than the Chebby. Which is why I had to trim nearly 3/4" off to use a Ford inner in my EB with the mini spool.
Now the Chebby shaft will only need a hair trimmed off to run in the EB. Supposedly the Dodge inner is the perfect inner for upgrading an EB to 760 joints....
According to Mr. Ns Dana Bible the Dodge inner should only be 1/8" longer than an EB, but it is actually an 1" shorter as shown in my pic. I only paid a few bucks for the Dodge set and the outer is still usable, so Im not out anything.
All the stubs are the same..except for the snap ring locations and the smaller 260 joint in the EB. The Chebby groove is about 1/2" back where as the Fords are only 1/8" or so. Now the Dodge on the other hand has provisions for both.
I have never bothered running the snap rings anyways. The hubs and stubs I have came with factory slugs and the grooves are set further back like a Chevy for some reason not allowing me put snaps on.
The Ford driver side set will be passed on to Brad (036speed) to get his Ranger back on the trail.
I also played around with an old Expo rear shaft. I want to build up a heavy duty rear shaft with a smaller OD and 1310 joints to replace my 3.5" thin walled 1330 shaft.
The 1310 joint is rated to 1650ft-lb vs the 1800 that the 1330 is rated for.
1310 and 1330 have same diameter caps, just a different width. The 1310 has an operating angle of 30 vs the 20 of the 1330.
I don't think the 150 ft-lb difference will cause an issue. I like the 1310 for a few reasons...A my front and rear shaft will use common joints B higher operating angle C 1310 yokes are easy to find for 2.5 OD tube. The smaller tube will clear my tank and traction bar cross member better.
I chopped the expo shaft apart and threw it on the lathe to cut the welds and salvage the yokes. I just need to get my tooob and weld it up now. I still need to cut the slip yoke off my current spare shaft, but I dont want to commit to that until I have everything to build up the replacement...
I have been researching so many dimensions, yokes, joints, and toob that I am seeing spicer part #s in my sleep.lol The shop looks like a drive shaft ware house.lol I have a gazillion flanges, slips, yokes and joints laying out trying to get everything pieced together.lol
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