How can I tell what engine I have?

[Mark_88]

too bad you aren't near someone with a NA running engine for sale or trade etc....instead of taking that apart and interrupting the seating rings..etc...the bore is most likely standard...you could take a bearing cap off and tell what bearing you have.,

All Turbo blocks are large journal crank, (if the block has has a turbo oil drain hole)...

if someone would want the pistons it would be best to leave them connected to rods etc...those pistons are hard to find and are no longer available from FORD...There are aftermarket non-forged dished pistons out there so finding out what you have would be good...clean a top of the piston w wd40 and see if it has any markings...

Anyway...those heads (actual turbo'ed) are rare uncracked, so if it's all been done..it's kewl...and it would be great used on flat top pistons..

i wouldn't buy a kit for that motor,,I would piece together what you need...
but first decide what you're going to do for pistons and rods..

to run a carb..or even EFI, you will want flat tops though..
that may be a good engine to use as a turbo'ed install for someone..

Good afternoon John...

That's what I was thinking...it would nice to find someone who wants a turbo block and swap it out for another 2.3/2.5...and too bad it isn't closer to me because I'd trade out my bottom end for that turbo in a flash...

But, anyway, it was a good find and if you can use it then go for it...plug up the oil drain and you're good to go...unless you want to use the oil drain....all 2.3 heads have the hole at the back (at least mine did from the Mustang) and I didn't know what it was till someone pointed it out to me...

 

[itlives]

I was looking at the sticky (what wonderful resource!) and the connecting rods are the same on the 2.0 and the 2.3. I can use the con. rods from my 2.0 Ranger engine, buy some new pistons and rings for the 2.3 and be good to go. Well, I'd still want to replace anything that looks even a little worn.
That way, I can sell the turbo pistons with the connecting rods together (as John suggested).

Another option would be to put the Mustang 2.3L head on the Ranger 2.0 block.
Is it a direct bolt on?
What about the combustion chamber, isn't it too big for the 2.0 hole?
Or, does that not matter?

 

[John Smith]

what I would do ...

Is mic the bore in the turbo block (if it is within limits)...and fit new 2.3 pistons to your 2.0 rods, and put it together with new bearings of course...
(unless you can sell/trade the complete block w/piston as is to someone for a good NA bored block)

....
keep the 2.0 crank (it's the same as your turbo crank), diz, etc..maybe sell the head/block to someone for a spare,

Never throw a bad block away..they can be sold as "clean cast" (premium) if you punch the aluminum aux shaft bearings out..

keep in mind..the older 12pt head bolts can generally be re-used, so don't throw any of those away even if you're using head studs...FYI head studs make for hard re-moving of the head unless you remove the studs while the engine is in your specific application sometimes..

 

[Mark_88]

Aside from what John suggested...yes, the mustang head will bolt onto the 2.0 block...the bolt patterns and water channels are the same...as I mentioned, I put a Mustang head on my 2.3 block...and had a 2.3 head on my 2.0 block...

But I'd seriously consider hawking the turbo block as is...and the turbo head...a complete engine like that would probably fetch 400-1,000...I was going to buy a complete turbo engine with the turbo and wire harness but it was priced at $1,500 iirc...and that was years ago when the swap wasn't that popular...

You've got enough in parts to cover your swap and buy gas for a while...if you find a buyer right away...but you won't know till you post an ad on CL or similar...

 

[itlives]

I'm the kind to keep what I have. The only thing I might part with right now is the 2.0 head and the turbo piston/rod set. I like the idea of having the spare 2.0 block.

Since I've been into VW's I have quite a collection of "stuff". I need to get off my butt and post some stuff on CL.
Anybody want a 1977 Alpha Romeo Spider w/an extra engine?
5-speed transmission from the 1985 Ranger
5-speed Porsche 914
type IV VW engine (got two)
36mm Empi carbs w/intakes for VW
34 Dellortos with intakes
40 Empi carb
1950's 1-wheel Allstate trailer (frame only)
1800 cc Porsche pop-up pistons
84 Webcam cam and lifters (VW/Porsche)
Mexican VW bay window (bus) grill
I say all that "tongue in cheek" but I really need to clean shop soon and make way for my new collection of Ford parts!

 

[itlives]

Here's the symbol that is on the top of the turbo pistons. The number on the top could be a letter, it's not easy to see. It's real small. I have the same symbol on the pistons in the 2.0, so I'm thinking they are original forged pistons (on the 2.3L). What think ye?

 

[itlives]

Thought I would post this in here instead of starting a new thread.
My 2.3 is in the machine shop right now and I got a call from the guy. He said it needs to be bored out .030 over.
Is that ok for the 2.3?
Will it tend to run hot?
Everything else is going to be stock except I may run a Holley 350 on it just for pulling power. (That is if the 350 will fit the OMC intake).
Thanks - Mike

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

...5-speed transmission from the 1985 Ranger...
1950's 1-wheel Allstate trailer (frame only)

Where in the world are you? And do you have a leaf spring that isn't welded together.

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

Here's the symbol that is on the top of the turbo pistons. The number on the top could be a letter, it's not easy to see. It's real small. I have the same symbol on the pistons in the 2.0, so I'm thinking they are original forged pistons (on the 2.3L). What think ye?

My guess is that is an old "Metal Leve" marking or maybe a "Malhe" but as far as I can tell a few of the giant internal engine component companies merged/consumed not that many years ago. http://www.mahle.com/MAHLE/en/Home_EN

 

[Mark_88]

.30 over is fine on a 2.3 block...shaving the head is also fine but not too much...we're talking thousandths of an inch...and you can always buy a thicker head gasket to keep the combustion ratio up...

 

[itlives]

Where in the world are you? And do you have a leaf spring that isn't welded together.

The Allstate one-wheeled trailer doesn't have a leaf spring. It only has a single spring on the wheel thingy. I can take a picture if you're interested.

I'm in Shreveport LA 71105

 

[itlives]

.30 over is fine on a 2.3 block...shaving the head is also fine but not too much...we're talking thousandths of an inch...and you can always buy a thicker head gasket to keep the combustion ratio up...

Mark- I thought a thicker head gasket would lower the compression..

Really though, I think for what I want, it will be fine even with a little lower compression.

 

[Mark_88]

Hmmmm...that could be true...all I know is that the turbo engines (if you're still using one) are not suitable to carbs and mostly due to the compression ratio...being too high...

It should work well either way...how long did the shop say for the engine completion? I remember having my head rebuilt and it took them about two weeks...or so...mostly because they had work backed up that long I'd imagine...

 

[Kenneth S]

.030 over is ok (I wouldn't go over .040 on a 2.3), if it needs to go over .040 I'd find another block, at .060 you run the risk of having an engine that overheats due to the cylinder walls being too thin.
On a 2.0 I've always heard that they can not bored to fit a 2.3 piston because Ford blocks are thinwall castings to save weight. You could have a machine shop sonic test the thickness of the cylinder wall in a 2.0 block.
Lastly on the 1987-88 T-bird turbo coupe engine I swapped one into a 85 ranger that had a blown up 2.0. I got carbed intake from a 82 mustang 2.3, bolted a 350 Holley 2bbl on, and put it on the factory stock 88 turbo motor with 90,000 miles on it, and it could churp the tires in 4th gear on occasion, so don't sell a turbo motor (minus the turbo) with carb short. You can also put a small 50hp nitrous kit on the turbo motor.

 

[itlives]

I'm not short selling anything. Even with no mods, this engine will have at least 50 more HP than the VW engine I'm currently running.
I'll feel like it's turbo'd when I first start driving.
That, plus the fact that I won't have any drag on the engine except the alternator (no fan, smog, or ac). That will give a little more.
I'm excited!