Duraspark conversion

[bassfrad]

You said you are not using the advance on the distributor did you plug the vacuum ports coming out of the carb. Depending on the carb you have find the one that gets vacuum when you open the throttle and connect it to the distributor just a plus for the future owner will add gas mileage.

Will do. I think it is a motorcraft 2150

 

[bassfrad]

that is for the computer you need the one with a single male connector kinna looks like a screw out the top it would be next to it on the thermostat housing

Well I will have to get another temp switch then, they must have replaced it with the aftermarket gauge that is in it. It works, but the only excuse for the factory gauge not working is lazyness at this point.

 

[bassfrad]

I never stop being amazed at some of the stupid things that people do. I was qurious to see so I got dressed and went to trace the wires for my fuel gauge and they have cut the sending unit wires, a yellow and a black. Now I have to drop the tank to reconnect them but there seems to be more than two connectors on the fuel tank. You know where they hook up at. I have a hayes manual but it is useless for this aswell as Duraspark conversions.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I have the chilton manual and it says yellow and white for the fuel sensor and red for hot in run or start I dont think you have a fuel pump in the tank so check between the black and yellow for resistance the more fuel the more resistance i am just guessing but maybe the black is for ground to the sending unit and yellow goes to the guage so the pulsing wire you found does go to the temp guage. one of the wires going to the fuel tank should do the same find the one that makes the fuel guage work by grounding test for a pulse first you can use acessory on the ignition switch also powers the guages then hook it to the yellow from the fuel tank if it dont work ground the black wire this all depends if there is fuel in it. I just double checked and the black is the ground for the sensor

 

[kimcrwbr1]

take a cresent wrench to the bone yard and get a couple senders out of similar fords one is bound to work for for your truck did they just plug the other hole in the thermo housing take one of them out so you know you have the right thread just look at the dash first for a fuel guage so you dont get one for a idiot light

 

[bassfrad]

OK sound good but there is no wires coming from the tank, just two going towards the tank and what feels to be four terminals to connect to. Do you like Chilton better, I have never thought that Hayes was all that helpfull, even on chevys which is what I normaly deal with but have never tried chilton?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

it has pretty good wiring diagrams but only tells how to remove the tank do the wires have connectors I am thinking the yellow one goes to the center of the sensor and the black to the ground around the edge somewhere just try connecting them up till it works I found apic on rock auto there is a oval connector with 2 prongs for the one without a fuel pump and 4 for the one with a pump I would say connect all four wires to the fuelt sender then test for which ones have continuity the two for the pump will have no or little resistance and the ones for the sending unit will have a variable resistance depending on fuel level maybe you can find a connector at the bone yard for that tank it kinna sounds like it has the pump in the tank does the sticker by the fuel tank say it had the 2.8l in it stock I would try anything I could instead of removing the fuel tank unless absolutely necessary.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

oh yea on the carb there should be two ports one by the drivers side idle adjust and the other on the side with the choke one of those two should be ported for the distributor advance hook a tube to it and you should get no or very little vac at idle when you give it gas the vacuum should rise that goes to the distributor

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you can`t tell I hate being underemployed i sleep half the day then can`t sleep at nite

 

[bassfrad]

When I bought this thing the guy said that they "converted it from fuel injection" but it does have the 2.8L that from what I have found didn't come fuel injected. I know he wasn't mistaken because he talked about removeing the injectors.

Don't know about being underemployed but i'm getting pretty good at being unemployed, I mean I'm pretty good at doing nothing but can't figure out how this money thing is going to pan out.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea you can probably get the connector at the boneyard hopefull you can find one with the fuel tank out from what I could find out they started in 85 with the fuel pump in the tank not sure if it is a high pressure pump or wether that sending unit will work with your guage all you can do is plug it in to find out as far as i am concerned if it shows empty is all that really matters and the plug looks pretty much the same from 85 to late 90s just cut the wires long enough. does the yellow wire have pulsing volts with the key on

 

[kimcrwbr1]

are there two tubes coming out of the tank supply and return. not sure where the vapor line goes either. if it has two it would be a good selling point as it is set up for a high pressure fuel injected system for someone to convert down the road. maybe someone else here knows more about it but am pretty sure you can use the mechanical pump on the motor to pull fuel through the one in the tank or use the one in the tank if it is there for the carb and put a regulator in the fuel line. can you get a connector on the sending unit with the tank in

 

[bassfrad]

Its all I can do to even touch it. It does have two hoses coming from the tank plus a vapor line aswell. I dont understand why it would have a pump inside if a 84 never came with fuel injection, I guess someone converted to injection then someone else converted back to carb, now I'm converting from junk to something better than that hopefully. I can't get over the lack of power. Everything checks out perfect but its still very hard to keep at 70MPH. I have even when't as far as to hook up a air/fuel meter (14.2 after adjusting at idle and 14.5 to 15 at 4000rpm) seems peppy from a stop but fizzles out quickly. OH I havent tested the wires yet. I'm working on a 1990 Bronco as well (damn wheel bearings)

 

[kimcrwbr1]

if you go to the tech library and scroll to the bottom there is a section on engine vacuum you should get like 20 hg at high speed if the guage is steady it might just be a vacuum leak is there a egr valve present check it and around the carb base mine has 15 at idle and 20 at high speed take a long vacuum tube put it up to your ear and check around all the gaskets and connectors you can hear a hissing if you get close but the guage can tell you the condition of the motor with all vac leaks fixed 15 is low at high speed probably uses more fuel too because the power valve is not working correct. I would pull the carb first and check the gasket or gaskets and look for anything that dont match up on the top mine there is a check valve that looks like a flat spring that pushes down a seal that was leaking I just pushed it down after spraying it with wd40 and stopped the leak. its easy to check the float level just ake the top off the carb and measure the fuel level in the bowl while running It should be around .81 inches from the top of the bowl. easy to bend the tab just pop out the float. sounds like your gettin close get the vacuum up and float set and advance for the distributor you might want to keep the truck. I make my own gaskets for the carb and just plug the egr somehow if it isn`t

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you pull the carbyou will see where the ported vacuum is it will be one that is above the throttle plate when closed if it has one and on the side of the carb where the accelerator pump linkage is from the throttle is the venturi size stamped in a circle it should be 1.08 for that motor