Duraspark conversion

[kimcrwbr1]

it`s fine to hook the advance to manofold vacuum if your carb is not ported and if your running the square stock coil that comes with the truck you don`t need a resistor they ard made to run battery or charging voltage. but if your running now and get good spark the way it is go with it. there is a resistor for the blower motor just trace the wire from the blower its either switch wires or resistor block there is a 8 wire connector by the coil the red and whit wire goes to the temp sensor on the thermostat housing and there is a yellow white wire for the fuel guage. If the temp sensor was not changed with the motor you will need to get one for your year ford to run the guage it might be for an idiot light just take and ground the wire for either the fuel or temp and see if the guage registers with the key on they should be getting a lower pulsing voltage from 0 to 8.6 max on mine I didnot trace the fuel level wire not sure if it goes through the firewall with the temp or just up in the cab somewhere but the oil pressure wire goes through the same plug as the water temp then into the big loop maybe they got cut in the frenzy of removing the emissions wire harness I carefully took it apart and only cut three wires to remove it so basically you turn the ignition either on or on accy and test for the wires that give a pulsing voltage ground that wire and see what guage it goes to and when you plug it in it will either work or you need a new sensor

 

[John Smith]

The temp switch

Wire from the water outlet sender is red/whi stripe on my 84
the oil press is whi/red stripe. these two go thru what left of the larger square connecter along wiht the remaining alt wires. (execpt the feed to alt from start sol which is in a separate single gray plug).. the fuel guage should be running to a separtate plug that contains the rear lighting circuit. it is also a square plug...

did you do the surgury on the removal of the puter wires?..if so there may be a remaining hot feed wire (from old puter feed) or two that used to be routed thru the square engine harness plug that are hot. THis could be the red one although on mine it used to be kinda pink i think...(it burned cuz of bad coil i replaced it back to the splice in the main harness). what line did you use to feed the coil?. did you retain the oval plug that originally had the red and white feeds to power the module? if you didn't remember that they exist there somewhere....the red for running and the white for starting remember...

 

[John Smith]

it`s fine to hook the advance to manofold vacuum if your carb is not ported and if your running the square stock coil ................. voltage ground that wire and see what guage it goes to and when you plug it in it will either work or you need a new sensor

now that you're on here and helping him out I'll just listen in... luv ur pil'o parts....

JS

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea was I glad to get that ple out of the way

 

[kimcrwbr1]

on mine the oval connector from the ignition was colorcoded backwards but they tested correct before I connected it

 

[John Smith]

I think they must all

on mine the oval connector from the ignition was colorcoded backwards but they tested correct before I connected it

be that way...mine too....

Since i use a diz....i just use the run side to push the resister/coil...and the other is not used...

(i got'n extra vacuum manifold 4 sale...but i guess u alredy have one..)

engine compartment sure is streamlined now huh?....kewl...I'm actually just now mounting my electri fuel pump using the old/newly refreshed puter ignition feed. (thru a toggle neath the dash)...we'll keep that secret tween us...

 

[bassfrad]

When I bought the truck someone had already cut everything up, and there was crap every where. No connectors it was just twisted together and taped. I have been replaceing all of the connectors and trying to figure out what wires I need and what does what. I have a 8 wire connector on the driver side, three wires not used a red/yellow, red/white, and a white. White is hot when cranking, red/white is hot with key on, and red/yellow flashes when key is on.

What does what, I need a fuel gauge and a temp gauge, my temp sensor is still in place. Next there is a 6 wire plug that is by it self?????

Pictures didn't show for me so here is a link

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.editAlbumPhotos&albumID=1082151&page=2

 

[John Smith]

this is from my above post

"Wire from the water outlet sender is red/whi stripe on my 84
the oil press is whi/red stripe. these two go thru what left of the larger square connecter along wiht the remaining alt wires. (execpt the feed to alt from start sol which is in a separate single gray plug).. the fuel guage should be running to a separtate plug that contains the rear lighting circuit. it is also a square plug..."

Find your temp sender wire and then the fuel should'n't b 2 hard out of the loom that goes to rear lights.. I hope this helps....2marow i'll see if i can id the fuel guage wire for ya...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea the one thats flashing is a pulsing voltage thru the guage hook that to ground and see what guage registers pretty sure its the temp guage. the one that is hot with the ignition on can be used for the hot to coil run a wire from it to the red wire on the on the two wire connector of the duraspark and to the resistor for the coil the one that is start can also go to the white on the duraspark and to the coil also if you have two that are start only hook one to white on duraspark that retardes the timing and the other to the coil that bypasses the resistor to bump the voltage when starting maybe that is where your having trouble starting it then runs through the resistor did you look in the tech library here under duraspark basics has a simple schematic for the ignition. plug the pulsing or flashing wire to the temp sensor then warm the engine up and see if it registers. the fuel sensor wire is in the loop that goes back to the tail lights probably one that has been cut it sounds like you need to find another pulsing wire key on that the fuel sensor feeds ground to

 

[kimcrwbr1]

the diode only allows power in one direction so connect it between the coil and duraspark so when you start it it alows power to go to the coil to boost voltage when you let the key off the power does not feed back to the duraspark that be the white wire that retards the timing

 

[bassfrad]

My temp switch has two probes inside of it. Can I hook up the one wire that pulsates to either prong assuming that grounding the wire is for that gauge. I'm also worried that grounding that wire, well wont that cause a direct short blowing a fuse or worse? I really dont know but if thats what I need to do. I just want to make sure I understand so I dont burn it to the ground.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You said you are not using the advance on the distributor did you plug the vacuum ports coming out of the carb. Depending on the carb you have find the one that gets vacuum when you open the throttle and connect it to the distributor just a plus for the future owner will add gas mileage.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

that is for the computer you need the one with a single male connector kinna looks like a screw out the top it would be next to it on the thermostat housing

 

[kimcrwbr1]

no your safe grounding it it will make the guage go fully hot or full on the tank they both use the same voltage supply through the guages the oil pressure sending unit has the same connector as the temp sending unit just a 90 degree female plug is all you need

 

[kimcrwbr1]

the sending units supply ground for the guages