Dodged a bullet yesterday

[19Walt93]

I planned to rebuild a carb for a friend yesterday but the sky cleared so I decided to mow the lawn instead. I started my Ranger and drove it into the garage so I wouldn't blow grass on it and smelled gas. When I got out, I saw a trail of gas behind the truck. I lifted the hood to look around and saw the whole left side of the engine and the corners of the timing cover soaked in gas. The section of hose from the fuel line to the carb had burst. The truck is carbureted and runs about 4-5 psi of fuel pressure. The hose is 4 years old and has "goodyear" on it but the print doesn't look right, I think I got some counterfeit hose. Had I not moved the truck to mow, the next time I drove it the leak would likely have caused a fire before I knew it. I'm going to check all the hoses and any that say "goodyear" are going in the trash. Look at your fuel lines. New doesn't mean good, new means new.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Glad you found that... zero good could come from it.

We have to be extremely careful with purchases for vehicles nowadays.

Not related to fuel hose... but brake line. The craze for those seems to be NiCopp. Having to do some brake line work on my 06... I ordered a 25 foot roll with a handful of fittings. It was cheap... and planned to try it. It came yesterday. It just didn't look like what I was expecting. Dug into it a little and found that it's actually copper coated and not the true NiCopp alloy. Turns out that the good stuff is about twice the price. Reviews for what I bought most say it worked great and would recommend. There are also those that say to just buy the right stuff... and thank me later.

My gut just says not to use it. NiCopp is not available until Monday. I'm thinking I either just buy some steel line local... or wait for the right stuff.

Another thing to look for is the CCA primary wire that has flooded the net. It's aluminum coated in copper. Lots of folks say it's junk. True copper primary wire is like 3 times the price.

 

[dvdswan]

 

[franklin2]

Glad you found that... zero good could come from it.

We have to be extremely careful with purchases for vehicles nowadays.

Not related to fuel hose... but brake line. The craze for those seems to be NiCopp. Having to do some brake line work on my 06... I ordered a 25 foot roll with a handful of fittings. It was cheap... and planned to try it. It came yesterday. It just didn't look like what I was expecting. Dug into it a little and found that it's actually copper coated and not the true NiCopp alloy. Turns out that the good stuff is about twice the price. Reviews for what I bought most say it worked great and would recommend. There are also those that say to just buy the right stuff... and thank me later.

My gut just says not to use it. NiCopp is not available until Monday. I'm thinking I either just buy some steel line local... or wait for the right stuff.

Another thing to look for is the CCA primary wire that has flooded the net. It's aluminum coated in copper. Lots of folks say it's junk. True copper primary wire is like 3 times the price.

Don't let the counterfeit Ni-cop turn you off to it. It is expensive. But it's so easy to thread through tight area on the frame, much like stiff wire. And it's easier to double flare, and doesn't corroded through. I say corrode through because it will get some green corrosion on it from the salt on the roads, but it would be a long time before it went through.

I have never bought the roll. I just go to the store and buy the pre-flared lengths. Always buy it a little bit long if they do not have exactly what you need, your hand bends will have more of a radius anyway and you can put a zig and a zag to take up a little bit of extra line. If you are running all the way to the rear, I use 3 lines. One long line to fish between the gas tank and the frame rail, and then a coupler and short line to run up front, and a coupler and a short line to run to the rear brake hose. I have done many different vehicles like that. Just don't let the kid behind the counter sell you a pipe coupler, you need the coupler with the female flare seats in it. They have them, but some of them just don't know it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Don't let the counterfeit Ni-cop turn you off to it. It is expensive. But it's so easy to thread through tight area on the frame, much like stiff wire. And it's easier to double flare, and doesn't corroded through. I say corrode through because it will get some green corrosion on it from the salt on the roads, but it would be a long time before it went through.

I have never bought the roll. I just go to the store and buy the pre-flared lengths. Always buy it a little bit long if they do not have exactly what you need, your hand bends will have more of a radius anyway and you can put a zig and a zag to take up a little bit of extra line. If you are running all the way to the rear, I use 3 lines. One long line to fish between the gas tank and the frame rail, and then a coupler and short line to run up front, and a coupler and a short line to run to the rear brake hose. I have done many different vehicles like that. Just don't let the kid behind the counter sell you a pipe coupler, you need the coupler with the female flare seats in it. They have them, but some of them just don't know it.

It's been several years since I've built brake lines... I wasn't even aware it was sold locally... and in bulk coils even. When I'm able to run into town I'm gonna see if I can make a deal...

Thanks for the heads up

 

[racsan]

“reveiws” are not worth reading. I knew of a website many years ago called “wordgigs”, not sure if they still exist but they would give you a list of products to write reviews for and pay you for your submissions.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I think I got some counterfeit hose.

Yeah man, you gotta watch out for counterfeit hoes. Ran into a few of them in Burbank once. Could have been a real disaster if I didn't figure that one out ahead of time.

 

[19Walt93]

Yeah man, you gotta watch out for counterfeit hoes. Ran into a few of them in Burbank once. Could have been a real disaster if I didn't figure that one out ahead of time.

There are 3 other short sections of hose between the tank and carb, the rest of them are Gates and look like new. The 4 inch piece of "goodyear" branded hose looks like the outer coating is cracked in several places and there's a hole in the side where it just blew out. I'm pretty confident it isn't really a goodyear hose. Mowing the lawn probably saved my truk, if not my life, too.

 

[bobbywalter]

Walt,
I recently had issues with efi and conventional fuel hose as well. Stuff was not cheap either. It's concerning to say the least. It was all from napa. Which to this point has been my fallback tried and true.

It was for the pilot system to the "thing that identifies as a ranger" that my son drives... I am running the evil energy lines on it now before we were ready for final fitment...and have had real good luck with those and the summit stuff on several projects the last few years ...... the napa line was only in service since last September...so I was disappointed about that. I actually spent more on the napa line then my evil energy stuff with all of the AN fittings. What a sad state of development we are in.

I took all of the efi line back and some of the conventional and told them they better have somebody figure that shit out... I am not expecting much.

Don't let the counterfeit Ni-cop turn you off to it. It is expensive. But it's so easy to thread through tight area on the frame, much like stiff wire. And it's easier to double flare, and doesn't corroded through. I say corrode through because it will get some green corrosion on it from the salt on the roads, but it would be a long time before it went through.

I have never bought the roll. I just go to the store and buy the pre-flared lengths. Always buy it a little bit long if they do not have exactly what you need, your hand bends will have more of a radius anyway and you can put a zig and a zag to take up a little bit of extra line. If you are running all the way to the rear, I use 3 lines. One long line to fish between the gas tank and the frame rail, and then a coupler and short line to run up front, and a coupler and a short line to run to the rear brake hose. I have done many different vehicles like that. Just don't let the kid behind the counter sell you a pipe coupler, you need the coupler with the female flare seats in it. They have them, but some of them just don't know it.

I actually find the ni chrome much more difficult to properly double flare with conventional tools.

It's often too soft and you have to really pay attention. The problem, well....as my tiny little mind sees it anyway.

...it is really overly forgiving and will seal good on a situation that is going to work fail in a short period where conventional line will piss all over to the point you are over torquing and you know you are fawking up.

These days....Here in rust belt central I most often am repairing what look like perfectly good ni chrome lines because this stuff lets inexperienced people think they flared it right. So there is give and take in my experience....



And I am guilty of not following proper etiquette as well.....

I was just adjusting the brakes on the bronco (drums front and rear ) and overlooking the lines front to rear on it and the ranger .... and just realized I totally forgot to make and install the brackets on the hard lines to keep them from work hardening...and I am contemplating putting all new line in now...and was just looking at what was in the garage stock a little bit before I seen this....I went back out and took a picture of what is typical...

I have been through...probably 12 or 15 rolls of this since 08 or so in automotive brake applications. It is waaaaay better in the salt belt. But not foolproof.

As you can see there is variation.....there is a piece of stick, and some coil. They handle totally different.....all are ni chrome.

I use the block method to straighten it...and it seems to not negatively effect it..overall....best thing for automotive if your paying attention.

In control applications for oil field equipment.....I have run thousands of feet. And quit using it and went back to fighting with stainless steel..... because this stuff will tolerate no abuse comparatively.

Fuel line and brake line are critical. Be informed.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Walt,
I recently had issues with efi and conventional fuel hose as well. Stuff was not cheap either. It's concerning to say the least. It was all from napa. Which to this point has been my fallback tried and true.

It was for the pilot system to the "thing that identifies as a ranger" that my son drives... I am running the evil energy lines on it now before we were ready for final fitment...and have had real good luck with those and the summit stuff on several projects the last few years ...... the napa line was only in service since last September...so I was disappointed about that. I actually spent more on the napa line then my evil energy stuff with all of the AN fittings. What a sad state of development we are in.

I took all of the efi line back and some of the conventional and told them they better have somebody figure that shit out... I am not expecting much.











I actually find the ni chrome much more difficult to properly double flare with conventional tools.

It's often too soft and you have to really pay attention. The problem, well....as my tiny little mind sees it anyway.

...it is really overly forgiving and will seal good on a situation that is going to work fail in a short period where conventional line will piss all over to the point you are over torquing and you know you are fawking up.

These days....Here in rust belt central I most often am repairing what look like perfectly good ni chrome lines because this stuff lets inexperienced people think they flared it right. So there is give and take in my experience....



And I am guilty of not following proper etiquette as well.....

I was just adjusting the brakes on the bronco (drums front and rear ) and overlooking the lines front to rear on it and the ranger .... and just realized I totally forgot to make and install the brackets on the hard lines to keep them from work hardening...and I am contemplating putting all new line in now...and was just looking at what was in the garage stock a little bit before I seen this....I went back out and took a picture of what is typical...

View attachment 95151View attachment 95152




I have been through...probably 12 or 15 rolls of this since 08 or so in automotive brake applications. It is waaaaay better in the salt belt. But not foolproof.

As you can see there is variation.....there is a piece of stick, and some coil. They handle totally different.....all are ni chrome.

I use the block method to straighten it...and it seems to not negatively effect it..overall....best thing for automotive if your paying attention.

In control applications for oil field equipment.....I have run thousands of feet. And quit using it and went back to fighting with stainless steel..... because this stuff will tolerate no abuse comparatively.

Fuel line and brake line are critical. Be informed.

Can you recommend a supplier? Or good brand name? I know you mentioned Napa, but may not be the same here in Canada.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I found NiCopp locally. I'll feel better with the right stuff for this repair. It sure does flare nice...

I think the first stuff I bought is like 99% copper.

 

[franklin2]

Walt,
I recently had issues with efi and conventional fuel hose as well. Stuff was not cheap either. It's concerning to say the least. It was all from napa. Which to this point has been my fallback tried and true.

It was for the pilot system to the "thing that identifies as a ranger" that my son drives... I am running the evil energy lines on it now before we were ready for final fitment...and have had real good luck with those and the summit stuff on several projects the last few years ...... the napa line was only in service since last September...so I was disappointed about that. I actually spent more on the napa line then my evil energy stuff with all of the AN fittings. What a sad state of development we are in.

I took all of the efi line back and some of the conventional and told them they better have somebody figure that shit out... I am not expecting much.











I actually find the ni chrome much more difficult to properly double flare with conventional tools.

It's often too soft and you have to really pay attention. The problem, well....as my tiny little mind sees it anyway.

...it is really overly forgiving and will seal good on a situation that is going to work fail in a short period where conventional line will piss all over to the point you are over torquing and you know you are fawking up.

These days....Here in rust belt central I most often am repairing what look like perfectly good ni chrome lines because this stuff lets inexperienced people think they flared it right. So there is give and take in my experience....



And I am guilty of not following proper etiquette as well.....

I was just adjusting the brakes on the bronco (drums front and rear ) and overlooking the lines front to rear on it and the ranger .... and just realized I totally forgot to make and install the brackets on the hard lines to keep them from work hardening...and I am contemplating putting all new line in now...and was just looking at what was in the garage stock a little bit before I seen this....I went back out and took a picture of what is typical...

View attachment 95151View attachment 95152




I have been through...probably 12 or 15 rolls of this since 08 or so in automotive brake applications. It is waaaaay better in the salt belt. But not foolproof.

As you can see there is variation.....there is a piece of stick, and some coil. They handle totally different.....all are ni chrome.

I use the block method to straighten it...and it seems to not negatively effect it..overall....best thing for automotive if your paying attention.

In control applications for oil field equipment.....I have run thousands of feet. And quit using it and went back to fighting with stainless steel..... because this stuff will tolerate no abuse comparatively.

Fuel line and brake line are critical. Be informed.

Ni chrome? Is that just a typo? We are talking about nickel-copper or some abbreviate it ni-copp.

 

[19Walt93]

It occurs to me that it might really have been goodyear hose. A friend used to sell Model A parts at swap meets after he retired from the Air Force. One summer he bought a new enclosed trailer, loaded it up and headed to Hershey. Before he got there one of the "made in China" Goodyear trailer tires blew out so violently it ripped the fender off his trailer. Maybe they make gas line in China, too.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

It occurs to me that it might really have been goodyear hose. A friend used to sell Model A parts at swap meets after he retired from the Air Force. One summer he bought a new enclosed trailer, loaded it up and headed to Hershey. Before he got there one of the "made in China" Goodyear trailer tires blew out so violently it ripped the fender off his trailer. Maybe they make gas line in China, too.

Yeah, I've never had good luck with Chinese hoes, either. Must be a common thing.

 

[franklin2]

Only certain types of rubber will stand up to gasoline. Buna-N is a common one, and Viton is another, even more expensive. What is normally done, is regular rubber is used on the outside of fuel rated hose, and the inner part of the hose is lined with Buna-N or Viton. That is why regular fuel hose is not rated for submersion in the fuel. They do make hose that has the good stuff all the way through and is rated for submersion, but it is very very expensive hose.