Do 3.0 Rangers have dirty injector problems?

[cbxer55]

Kiss your O2 sensors, and CAT good by if you burn MMO!!!

If your cleaner worked, why are you still posting trash???????

Because it only works for about three or four tankfuls, then the symptoms return! That is why!

As for O2 sensors and cats, tell me why I have been able to use MMO in other vehicles with O2 sensors and cats without issue. I have been using MMO in vehicles for 32 years now, without issue. Why, all of the sudden, is it your opinion that it is bad? What do you know that makes a liar of 32 years?

I'd be interested to know.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Because it only works for about three or four tankfuls, then the symptoms return! That is why!

As for O2 sensors and cats, tell me why I have been able to use MMO in other vehicles with O2 sensors and cats without issue. I have been using MMO in vehicles for 32 years now, without issue. Why, all of the sudden, is it your opinion that it is bad? What do you know that makes a liar of 32 years?

I'd be interested to know.

Oh yeah, your sig. line SUCKS!

Thats why people are getting annoyed... they are trying to help and in your typing it sounds like you have a bad addituide. They are trying to help and your getting mad, they didn't know that... and this really doesn't sound like a very common problem... or atleast I haven't heard about it.

Also we don't know what your experience is either, sure you have been using this stuff for 32 years on different vehicles... but 32 years ago cars didn't have cats or O2 sensors. And maybe he has had bad luck with it doing exactly what he describe to one or many of his own vehicles. I just know I add it to my deisel to add lubricant to the low sulfer junk they have... you know why? cause it caused bad emissions and adding an oil to replace the missing sulfer is going to cause bad emissions thus more carbon leaving and more to plug up the cat and cover the o2... so yeah... Mystery oil is a lubricant which would quiet noises or lube parts that weren't getting it, your using a cleaner which is a solvent and thus the exact opposite of a lubricant.

And try not to diss people it will get you kicked off, Its their own say and they have the right to say it.

We are just trying to help.

EDIT:

Oh and at this point I almost wanna say that its some sort of electrical problem (yes even though your using fuel additives.)

 

[triumphrider-1]

Has this truck ever run on E-85?

 

[cbxer55]

Has this truck ever run on E-85?

NO. It is not a flex-fuel vehicle, I know better. And besides, there are only four stations in the entire Oklahoma City area that have it, and they are all too far to drive to buy gas. I avoid using the 10% ethanol fuels that are available as well. Although I am beginning to think the 10% ethanol might actually be a good thing. So I may try it for a few tanks and see what transpires.

 

[cbxer55]

Also we don't know what your experience is either, sure you have been using this stuff for 32 years on different vehicles... but 32 years ago cars didn't have cats or O2 sensors. And maybe he has had bad luck with it doing exactly what he describe to one or many of his own vehicles. I just know I add it to my deisel to add lubricant to the low sulfer junk they have... you know why? cause it caused bad emissions and adding an oil to replace the missing sulfer is going to cause bad emissions thus more carbon leaving and more to plug up the cat and cover the o2... so yeah... Mystery oil is a lubricant which would quiet noises or lube parts that weren't getting it, your using a cleaner which is a solvent and thus the exact opposite of a lubricant.

I bought this truck in Jan 2002 with 20,000 showing. From 2002 until 2006 I used MMO at a ratio of 1/2 ounce per gallon just about every fillup.I stopped using it in late 2006 because the price of a gallon of MMO went from $9.99 to $12.99, too expensive to use in both my motorcycles and my truck. I use it in my bikes only for now. So I put about 60,000 miles on this truck with MMO in the tank to a ratio of 1/2 ounce per gallon. Since I have no Check Engine Light showing, I can only assume it did no harm to the converters or the O2 sensors. On the two occassions where the CEL did light up, one was the DPFE and the other the IAT.

Also my 2006 Suzuki has a converter, and now has about 15,000 miles showing with almost every one of them at a ratio of 1 ounce per gallon. I got no CEL on that either.

So I continue to believe it will do no harm. At this point all I can say is that everytime my truck has evidenced the symptoms I listed earlier, from 2007 to present, a liberal dose of cleaner fixed it. So how that could qualify as an electrical problem is beyond me. How that could be the Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensors is way beyond me. I have new DPFE, ECT, IAC and IAT. MAS is clean and I use a non-oil type cone filter. New coil pack, new plugs and relatively new (2 years) wires, none of them glow at night when it is running.

For a few more weeks I will deal with this with what seems to work, lots of cleaner and some MMO. After the New Year I am gonna dump this thing and get another vehicle, guaranteed not to be a ranger. Its been paid for since 2005, so its time to move on.

 

[lorenambrose]

The crankshaft sensor is needed to start and run, the camshaft sensor isn't.

Yes it is. It controls fuel metering at start up. Without a signal, NO FUEL. As for the sensors causing the problem. My 4.0 OHV did the same thing with not starting, then 2 hours later would fire up and run great. They get corroded and are affected by temp and humidity. Strange thing is that when it ran there was no evidence that anything was wrong. I chased fuel injectors, dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the MAF, fuel psi reg, and finally the crankshaft position sensor. I finally gave up and took it in to the dealer. The fix was the camshaft position sensor. Never had a problem again.

 

[Bob Ayers]

Yes it is. It controls fuel metering at start up. Without a signal, NO FUEL. As for the sensors causing the problem. My 4.0 OHV did the same thing with not starting, then 2 hours later would fire up and run great. They get corroded and are affected by temp and humidity. Strange thing is that when it ran there was no evidence that anything was wrong. I chased fuel injectors, dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the MAF, fuel psi reg, and finally the crankshaft position sensor. I finally gave up and took it in to the dealer. The fix was the camshaft position sensor. Never had a problem again.

If it needed the camshaft position sensor to run, then you wouldn't lose the engine due to no oil pressure when the synchro goes out.

So, you are WRONG, the engine will start and run WITHOUT the camshaft position sensor. The injectors will fire, but not sequentially.

 

[lorenambrose]

I just went and dug up my maintenance records and in fact I had my sensors backwards. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Please accept my appologies. I do believe the crankshaft sensor will fix the OP's issue. I doubt very seriously that there is a fuel system problem as injectors, pumps, and regulators do not usually fail intermittently. Again sorry for the confusion.

 

[cbxer55]

If it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor, as you imply, then why has the problem not re-appeared since I put the injection system cleaner in the tank? It has started up on the first turn of the key ever since.

And according to a Ford mechanic here in Oklahoma City, they do fail like this. So, do I believe a internet personality, or a Ford mechanic?

 

[modelageek]

Time to end this . lets stop helping this bozo.

 

[Bob Ayers]

Time to end this . lets stop helping this bozo.

+1

 

[cbxer55]

You guys were not any help. No one here can explain to me how fuel injection cleaner in the tank has anything to do with the stupid sensors you keep telling me are toast. And yet my truck has run perfectly now for some two weeks. Starts every time and runs like a champ.

Take your sensors and stick em where the sun does'nt shine. I'll be deleting my membership from this waste of time forum shortly.

A Ford mechanic told me it was injectors. You all internet "mechanics" keep talking sensors. So when a can of injector cleaner solves the problem, you all keep going on-and-on about sensors that are not even remotely involved with the fuel system.

With help like this, who needs help?

ADIOS!

 

[lorenambrose]

You need to shut your pie hole. I tried to offer the best help I could, as has the others in this thread. My vehicles symptoms were the same as yours. Although I now think you never had a problem and are a troll. You were on another Ranger forum spewing your antagonistic swill over there. I think everyone is sick of it.

Don't go away mad, just go away. you won't be missed.

 

[rsefert]

Had same problem thought same thing,put injector cleaner in problem cleared for while.Was bad egr valve,stuck sometimes hard to start with that big of a vacum leak.Mine only did this with marathon gas stopped using marathon for 6 months before the problem came back and found the real reason for the hard starts.

 

[SixFoFalcon]

Pedal to the floor has not worked at all. I have tried numerous times to no avail.

And that's as it should be on a fuel injected vehicle. WOT during cranking shuts off the injectors, so you get zero fuel flow. If the engine management system is working properly, pushing the pedal to the floor will guarantee that the engine cannot start. It actually comes in handy sometimes when you are interested in cranking the engine without starting it (priming a dry oil pump, clearing flooded cylinders, etc.)