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Bucket Seats - who has done what ?




flyingbrick

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From your main screen showing all the pics, roll your mouse over the pic you want, a menu will shop up under it, click the IMG code, and then paste in the reply box.

Note the red circle.
 
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Purple004

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Good luck replacing your seats. this will be hard to do because of all the airbag equipment inside them if you replace them your airbag wont work and your nice ranger will be trowing codes and all kinds of anoying chimes. But If you find a way to and keep all your airbag equipment working then you need to Post a how to.

Thank You
johnB
 

raascal

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I put 96 mounty seats in my 02 extra cab - they are leather w/ power - installed just fine brackets matched - ran power from battery w/20 amp inline fuse thru dash & under seat - they work fine - suppose if you could find some from eb with heat they would also work
 

Snurfer

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2005 sport trac 2 tone leather full power with heat and air bolsters. sport trac seats share the same bolt pattern as the 95 and up rangers. up to 99 i believe.
 

Jrrrrrr

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You could always do the free mod> I did it in my ranger and it worked out really nice. Remove the fabric over the center section and cut the bracket undre the seat. Remove the extra foam and fold the fabric back under the seat and trim off the extra. I think there is a how to in the Tech library.
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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2003 Mazdaspeed Mazda Protege seats.
I've since trimmed the sub box so that the pass seat goes back, clean up and painted the brackets as well as pulled the carpet and bedlinered the floors.


 

LittleHorse

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I've got a set of buckets out of a late 80's Thunderbird Turbo coupe in my garage but haven't installed them yet. Something is screwed up with the mechanism so the seat backs won't lock, they just flop back and forth. I haven't really made the time to figure out how to fix them yet, so they haven't gone in.
 

B-Good

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hey for the guys who have the bucket seats installed how many inches do you have between each seat
 

Scrambler82

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2003 Mazdaspeed Mazda Protege seats.
I've since trimmed the sub box so that the pass seat goes back, clean up and painted the brackets as well as pulled the carpet and bedlinered the floors.


Now that is different.

It looks like there is a lot of mods ?

Care to elaborate ?

Looks good.
 

Loud Ranger

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mine were from an explorer, bolted right in and all the harnesses were the same so it was just plug and play and all the power goodies and seat tracks work flawlessly. My ranger had the exact same buckets but the cloth version stock so it already had power and lumbar support so the wires were already there.
 

94twodoor

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Speaking of the 60/40 bench seats...I am having a issue with mine. I need to know what hardware I need to reattach the stock center counsole to the drivers seat. Need specifics like bolt length, angle of thread, corse or fine, and the washer set up...Anyone have these specs? The Ford dealership says they dont have the old manuals to look it up anymore.
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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Now that is different.

It looks like there is a lot of mods ?

Care to elaborate ?

Looks good.
Pretty simple actually.

I cut the original mounts and sliders from the Mazda seat, leaving just the rails on the bottom of the seat.

I then welded 1/4" steel strips across those rails.

I measured the bolt spacings on the bottom of the original 60/40 seat, then copied it to the steel strips on the buckets.

Finally, I marked drilled and tapped the holes. Then bolted the ranger mounts/brackets and sliders using allen head cap bolts, so that they wouldn't interfere with the sliders.

Had both seats done in about 2.5 hours, but that includes R&R of the drivers bucket too. I had to disassemble it and straighten everything, since my seats came from a rolled car.
 

jasongind

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Pretty simple actually.

I cut the original mounts and sliders from the Mazda seat, leaving just the rails on the bottom of the seat.

I then welded 1/4" steel strips across those rails.

I measured the bolt spacings on the bottom of the original 60/40 seat, then copied it to the steel strips on the buckets.

Finally, I marked drilled and tapped the holes. Then bolted the ranger mounts/brackets and sliders using allen head cap bolts, so that they wouldn't interfere with the sliders.

Had both seats done in about 2.5 hours, but that includes R&R of the drivers bucket too. I had to disassemble it and straighten everything, since my seats came from a rolled car.
Will this method of mounting work with power seats as well? I dont know what the motor used to move the seat, if its the rails them selves or something different.
 

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