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brake light/rear antilock light on


--weezl--

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i had an 87? bII a while back, and i was told my rabs light was on because of a "dirty sensor in the rear diff" the way i was explained it, there's a sensor that's like a magnet, and collects metal filings over time, and once it's really dirty, it pops the light on, the sensor can be removed, and cleaned, and will work again, untill the residual crud dirties it up again...

i didn't have the truck long enough to actually do it though...

my truck was an interesting deal though, 2wd, with a "dummy transfercase" and a non existant 2.3L efi v6... i can't find ANY details on it, or any one else in north america with the same motor, but i know for a fact that it was a 2.3L v6...
 


Steeda04SVT

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i had an 87? bII a while back, and i was told my rabs light was on because of a "dirty sensor in the rear diff" the way i was explained it, there's a sensor that's like a magnet, and collects metal filings over time, and once it's really dirty, it pops the light on, the sensor can be removed, and cleaned, and will work again, untill the residual crud dirties it up again...

i didn't have the truck long enough to actually do it though...

my truck was an interesting deal though, 2wd, with a "dummy transfercase" and a non existant 2.3L efi v6... i can't find ANY details on it, or any one else in north america with the same motor, but i know for a fact that it was a 2.3L v6...
That's what I changed out was the sensor in the rear diff with a brand new one. I might try to start looking at the bigger more expensive parts though which kinda sucks.
 

--weezl--

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did it help any?

it is possible the new one is dirty again, if there are lots of filings
 

Steeda04SVT

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did it help any?

it is possible the new one is dirty again, if there are lots of filings
No. I went for a drive around the block and it came on after a few mins after I put a brand new sensor in.
 
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Tedybear

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My credo
Failing is easy. Everyone can do it.
The battery will have (or at least ours does) an extra ground wire that feeds the RABS system. It has a connector as well a few inches from the battery ground. Any crud or bad contacts? The light will come on. Just considering it hosed ours (someone replaced the terminal ends, and cut the extra grounds off...made life he&& to figure out all the issues)

S-
 

Steeda04SVT

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Sweet, I will def check it out. I'm hoping that's all it is, because I was messing around moving the wire bundles alot when I was trying to install my new Clutch Master cylinder and thinking that it could of messed with something down there.

Plus I noticed there aren't very many places that sell all the exact pieces for the ABS system. Even LMC isn't very specific on the ABS system. Anybody know of any other sites that might offer the parts?
 
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--weezl--

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Charles

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curious. when you replaced the sensor, did you clear the codes in the computer? Thinking maybe the sensor swap could have solved the problem but the computer is still storing/throwing out the same error.
 

Steeda04SVT

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Would I need to just pull the negative terminal on the battery and wait 30 minutes?
 

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Ever take the pic?

Changed out the sensor and no bueno. So I'm not sure what to check next.


Whoops, it actually is a 4 pin, each sensor wire has it's own ground.

This is on the driver side, about under where the steering column is in the frame rail.
 

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Steeda04SVT

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curious. when you replaced the sensor, did you clear the codes in the computer? Thinking maybe the sensor swap could have solved the problem but the computer is still storing/throwing out the same error.
If it was popping codes, wouldn't the check engine light be on then too? I disconnected the negative battery terminal for an hr and noticed the "Rear Anti Lock" Light wont come on until I go past 35-40 mph.
 

--weezl--

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abs codes are different than eec-iv codes... they are stored differently, same with transmission codes, they show different lights on the dash... newer vehicles will have the od off light flash for a transmission code
 

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Anyone ever figure out what the issue was? The sensor weezl mentioned a few posts up is the speed sensor in the rear (typical hall effect type sensor). There's a few things that can go wrong with ABS such as the controller or the pump. I asked another BII owner about it not too long ago and he said that it is some sort of pressure switch which gets stuck. I tend to think that he's right because the system seems to work right even with the light on. The sensor (or what I believe to be the sensor) is located under the driver's side floor board closer to the fire wall. Anyone ever replace the sensor in question?
 

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