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Ball joints


Shran

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This, except use a pry bar to move the wheel straight up and down. It's easier to find ball joint play that way. Rocking it by hand can throw bearing or tie rod play into what you feel and give a false positive.
Usually I can see a bad ball joint just by looking at how the knuckle moves relative to the beam. Ball joint or wheel bearing play are both pretty easy to see and distinguish from each other. Any more than 1/32" play in ball joints equals worn out anyway :icon_thumby:
 


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The shop I take my vehicles to said that the max wear permitted is 0.030, the right side is at 0.045 and the left is at 0.010. I'm going to buy the ball joints myself and when I get a weekend off, which for me is tuesday thru thursday, I will hopefully be able to get my neighbor with the press to help me take care of both sides. I know I've had wheel bearings done, but not sure if front or back, left/right. I can't remember. Will see if I can get the coil spring isolators from the shop that I ordered and have those done as well. If not, then I will have to wait until I can afford to do it at the shop.

How long before its considered unsafe to drive with worn out ball joints?
 

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My '96 Ranger had around 1/8" (.125) play in the passenger lower for at least a couple months. Towards the end it was getting worse every day, steering felt really weird and it would pop hard when turning in reverse. Yours might last a while but keep in mind it probably has no grease in it so you are turning a rusty ball in a nylon/steel socket many times with no lubrication, so it will wear VERY quickly... so what I'm saying is change them ASAP.
 

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I am replacing mine at the moment. I thought I had damaged something on the trails yesterday so I took it in for an alignment. Turns out all 4 were bad. It was a little squirly over 65mph before, but after yesterday I can't even keep it on the road at 30mph.

Pep Boys quoted me $80 in labor and around $30 each for the ball joints. Price isn't too bad, but I am doing mine myself too. Just rented the tool from Autozone. I would suggest replacing your wheel bearings while you have it apart.
 

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I've never done wheel bearings...nor have I done anything else involved in suspension before, I'm learning through these forums and by books and from friends/neighbors. If I take the truck apart to do the ball joints, how much more work is involved in replacing all the inner parts of that area?
 

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wheel bearings will be cake, ESPECIALLY after doing the friggin ball joints. just remember grease is your friend. and they are super cheap anyways, so why not do it while youre in there.
 

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moog ball joints cost me 65 each , I would also do the inner u joints at the knuckle at the same time.

I spent about 300 on parts when I rebuilt mine , that included bearings , seals , the afore mentioned u-joints , ball joints, brake pads, break hoses

A shop will charge you that much in labor easily, just for one side.



Ok what about the u joints and seals? What kind of seals are we talking about? Probably will need to replace the brake pads as well. What's the process to replace the u joints?
 

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Where can i find measurements for the u joints? I have many choices on autozone.com. What's the deal with the the inner and outer wheel bearings? Do I need both sets? Do I need to buy boots for the tie rod ends?
 

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Finished mine this morning. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be. You need 4 wheel bearings. 2 for each side, inner and outer. They are all the same part number. And get some grease and pack them. Very easy and you have to remove them to do the ball joints anyways.
 

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Ok but what about the tie rods? On the AZ website, there's some that are measured? And the u joints I have to find measurements for them...
 

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Tie rod ends are cheap and if you take them off you need an alignment. If you need rod end boots, just get rod ends. If the boot is torn the ball and cup joint inside it probably damaged already anyway. The grease doesn't stay in there long once the boot is gone.

Think about a hip joint with no cartilage

For wheel bearings, get both the inner and outer. Don't forget the inner dust seal. It is really easy to destroy them taking them out. I find the best way to install the seal is to find a piece of 1/4" plate that covers the whole seal, set the seal in the hole, set the plate on top of it, and then give it a good what with a 2 lb hammer.
 

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Ok, I will replace the entire tie rod ends, with boots. I only need to do the front end suspension as I have had the rear end done last year. But what about the u joints? How do I know what size I need????


Ok, I took some pix of the front suspension. Tell me what I am looking at. I KNOW about the coil springs, the brake lines, but not real certain about the rest.




 

Shran

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Ok, I will replace the entire tie rod ends, with boots. I only need to do the front end suspension as I have had the rear end done last year. But what about the u joints? How do I know what size I need????


Ok, I took some pix of the front suspension. Tell me what I am looking at. I KNOW about the coil springs, the brake lines, but not real certain about the rest.
I really think you need to take a step back and think about this project... more specifically if you are comfortable taking your truck apart this far. If you have any doubts then just have a shop do it...seriously.

After you have thought about it and if you decide to fix it yourself, just DO IT. It is OK to ask questions but the best way to learn this stuff is to dive in and get the parts you need as you go. Just trying to be realistic here, replacing all the stuff you're talking about is a LOT of work for someone who doesn't know what they're doing. :icon_thumby:
 

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Thats the way i did it. when money is low and somethings needs fixed you have to just figure it out. you dont need any major tools. the ball joints and a press thats it..you could even get and electric impact like i did from autozon for 60 bucks and it works great.
 

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I got a really good idea of how to do the ball joints after reading thru some articles and some writeups I've read through. I just figured since I'm in that far I might as well replace what I can so I don't have to tear it all back down again.
I just need to know where I can find the u joint measurements and tie rod end measurements.
 

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