Any ideas of divorce mounting a transfer case?

[greasemonkey6886]

Ok let me explain, in the process of building a truck for mud bog competition using the parts we have for the time being. Have a 91 ranger 4x4 but no engine or tranny installed, used for a previous engine swap. We have a 92 Ranger 4x2 that has been totalled in a front end crash. Engine and tranny are fine and not damaged so thoughts are to use this combo untill funds allow the V-8 swap.
Any way to mount a BW1350 divorce style behind the 4x2 M50D or should we find something else. Now I know the easiest way would be to get a 4x4 tranny and be done with it but they are REALLY hard to find in this area for some reason.
Thanks for any help or ideas!

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

Sounds interesting, i wanna learn too.

 

[1986fordranger]

it would be posable to use a bw1350 but you would have to make some mounting brackets for the tcase and make custom drive shafts the hardest part would be that you will need to make a flange with outside splings to weld on the input shaft of the tcase so you can bolt a small drive shaft between the tranny and tcase you will want to make sure its on stright before welding it on too , as far as other brands of tcase that are already divorce theres not many that have a left hand side drop front drive shaft , the only one i know of is the np205 but they are one heavy sob so it may not be a good option for a ranger , the easey option would be to either get a 4wd tranny or get a 4wd output shaft and 4wd tailhouseing and swap those into your 2wd unit , good luck

 

[Captain Ledd]

...and make custom drive shafts the hardest part would be that you will need to make a flange with outside splines to weld on the input shaft of the tcase so you can bolt a small drive shaft between the tranny and tcase you will want to make sure its on stright before welding it on too

That sounds expensive and easy to mess up.

Build a plate that bolts onto the front of the t-case using the existing mounting face. Make a provision so oil can be added and drained and fill up to maybe 1/3 of the thickness of the splined shaft. This plate will have a snout, where you mount a simple needle roller bearing (similar to the rear axle bearings) and a seal. This will let the driveshaft slip in and out a bit. This will also provide a good base for some mounts.

When you build the driveshaft get the slip yoke sized so you can have matching splines cut on it to fit into the transfer case. Be sure to leave room on the smooth section for the roller bearing and seal.

Drill and tap the end of the 2wd trans output shaft to run a traditional fixed yoke or flange (preferably).

All that's left now is to distance it appropriately. I'd leave a good 6" between the u-joints.

I know that this all seems like it's a step backwards, but it's a lot more off the shelf parts, and fewer specialty ones. Parts only need to be modified, and not a full out custom job (except for the mounting plate). It may still be on the pricey side too, but again, hopefully you won't be breaking something that can't be simply removed and replaced (like a welded on shaft).

 

[greasemonkey6886]

Thats on the same lines as I was thinking there Captain Ledd. I don't want to weld on the TC at all because if you ever need in it or later on need to use it on another setup your screwed. You are also thinking like I am as far as using off-the-shelf parts as much as possible. I like the idea of drilling and tapping the output shaft for a fixed flange. That was one of the things I hadn't quite figured out yet in my head.
I do know about the NP205. I had a 76 F250 that had one and yes it's very heavy. Don't think it would be too heavy for the truck but the lighter the better for mud boggin. I wouldn't ever have to worry bout it breaking however LOL!!
There is a guy that has a Ranger tuff-truck racer for sale on the for sale page on here. Says in the specs that his is a 4x2 tranny also with a toyota(IIRC) TC in it. Anybody know bout this option? I should just contact him I guess.

 

[1986fordranger]

That sounds expensive and easy to mess up.

Build a plate that bolts onto the front of the t-case using the existing mounting face. Make a provision so oil can be added and drained and fill up to maybe 1/3 of the thickness of the splined shaft. This plate will have a snout, where you mount a simple needle roller bearing (similar to the rear axle bearings) and a seal. This will let the driveshaft slip in and out a bit. This will also provide a good base for some mounts.

When you build the driveshaft get the slip yoke sized so you can have matching splines cut on it to fit into the transfer case. Be sure to leave room on the smooth section for the roller bearing and seal.

Drill and tap the end of the 2wd trans output shaft to run a traditional fixed yoke or flange (preferably).

All that's left now is to distance it appropriately. I'd leave a good 6" between the u-joints.

I know that this all seems like it's a step backwards, but it's a lot more off the shelf parts, and fewer specialty ones. Parts only need to be modified, and not a full out custom job (except for the mounting plate). It may still be on the pricey side too, but again, hopefully you won't be breaking something that can't be simply removed and replaced (like a welded on shaft).

good advice , that makes alot more since then what i could think of , and like you said the whole system can be serviced easely