alwaysFlOoReD's race truck

[sittenHIGHon35s]

dude this is sic i love when builds are detailed

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Not a lot to report.
I removed from the '87 stx parts truck; front axles, axle drop pivot brackets, rad arms, rad arm drop brackets. Front axles will be saved for parts for my b-II. The brackets are going into my race truck.
I removed from an '88 2wd; front axles. rad arms, rad arm brackets.
I had this idea that I could use the arms from the 88, they are ~ 4" longer, but no go. They don't fit over the 4wd axles. I may still use the rad arm brackets. They don't have a connecting crossmember, so I think I can slid them back pretty much anywhere along the frame rail. If I use them at the tranny crossmember , I'll have to fab a different crossmember setup.
I started looking at the front end of my truck again. Took off the springs and shocks and front sway bar, and am trying to figure where to mount shocks.

Chuck suggested cutting the top shock mount hole bigger to fit longer shocks through it. I also noticed the big trucks mount their shocks on top of the rad arm, I'll see if that's a possibility to do along side of the stock mount. I may also mount two side by side on the side of the rad arm. Another possibility is in front. Three shocks in front would be great!I don't want to lose the sway bar, but mounting a shock beside it may be possible. That brings me to my first question;
What temperature to heat my sway bar to in order to bend it, and then how to quench it? It's been 30 years since I took shop and I don't remember exactly.
I found that my stock brake lines have cracks may be short so I bought new ones 4" longer; Raybestos: BH38622 BH38623
Cost C$81.00 If I find I need longer when I do the rad arms, I can get extensions later.
I found the front drive shaft hitting the rad arm crossmember when I was fully drooped so I decided to incorporate the drop brackets from the '87. Unfortunately the passenger side rad arm hole is screwed so I got out the grinder. There is a 1.5" block that sits between the crossmember [welded in] and the frame as well as an extension that is riveted and welded to the crossmember. I'll try to remember to take pics.Got one half off yesterday. I hope to get to the rest today.
I got all my springs lined up

These are all stock, starting at the bottom, all looked to have the same wire dia. except the '88; '91 stx ranger 4x4 -single, '79 bronco variable rate under 6350 gvwr -pair, '79 bronco linear rate under 6350 gvwr -pair, d-44 unknown -pair, '88 f-150 2wd w/351ci ext. cab- pair, '87 stx highrider ranger -pair, '91 stx ranger 4x4 -single
I compared the shocks from the '87 stx highrider to the '91 stx and could not see any difference except the '87 front was longer by 1/2" but same stroke. '87 stx; 14.5" extended, 9.5" collapsed. Probably none were stock.
A comparison of front sway bars;

Left to right; '87 stx highrider 1.156" OD, '85 B-II .989" OD, '91 stx .901" OD
Measurements were taken where the rubber rides. Also notice the difference in the rubber mounts.
Later,
Richard
OK, maybe there was a little to report?

 

[RDR]

Bad A$$ Build man!

 

[gwaii]

nice work,good to see you're having fun with it.can't wait to see it going(as i'm sure you are too)

 

[Big Hairy Deal]

Awesome build!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I finished stripping the '87 stx. Got it down to a bare frame. Removed drop brackets, rear shock brackets, sway bar brackets, axles, everything I could think of that I may need someday. I've also been stripping all my junk rangers and other trucks, going to the scrappers so I can get money for the race truck, work is a little slow, [and I'm not much quicker].
Well I decided I needed a better way of removing rust from these brackets off the '87 stx

After a bunch of online research I decided to build an electric rust remover, No not a wire wheel on hand held grinder, this;

This removes rust by electrolysis. The main portion of information that was used was from this site;
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
If you decide to build this yourself please read the warnings in the link I posted!!!!!!

I started with a plastic drawer from an Ikea set I found in a dumpster and formed some expanded metal , also found in a dumpster behind a metal shop, to run around the inner perimeter of the tub, with tabs welded on;

Used this stuff for the electrolyte;

also known as washing soda by Arm and Hammer
About 1/8 of a 4 litre ice cream pail of soda ash to approx. 10-15 gal. of water. Hooked up the positive lead of the battery charger to the expanded metal and the negative lead to the crossbar, hung the bracket from the cross bar with a coat hanger that was lightly sanded. Bubbles immediately started forming on the metal, both neg. and pos. sides, kind of reminded me of beer bubbles, mmmmm, beeeerrr.Oh, yeah, back to the explaining. I found that the new chargers don't seem to work. My theory is that the overload protection prevents the charger from charging, so I added a battery in[ series, parallel ?] hoping that would trick the battery charger into working. That worked till the battery died. I borrowed an old charger with no protection circuits from my father in law and problem solved.
This is a view without power;

This is a view with power;

Notice the bubbles, mmmmmmm, beeeerrr.
I don't have an after pic but it cleans a whole lot easier after electrolysis. A pressure washer would probably blast the rust off. I used a wire wheel and a file to get in where the wire wheel wouldn't. That took 5 min. compared to probably 1/2 to 3/4 hour the old way.

Also made this to help move axles etc.;

Started figuring where I can mount shocks in front. I think I'll be able to mount another behind the existing one, and one in front of the axle by moving the sway bar link over to beside the original sway bar link mount. I swapped the curved [s shaped] link for a straight one. I'll mount the shock on the other side of the sway bar mount using one long grade 8 bolt for both the link and shock. I'll also weld tabs to the axle to help support this bolt. At the back axle I cut some 6" c channel [from a dumpster dive] 1.5 " wide. This will get holes drilled in the ends of the channel and welded to the upper spring plate. Should hold two shocks easily, plus the original gives me three total.
Time spent on the race truck; 2 days, money spent C$25.00 for 25 lbs of soda ash - bought way too much
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Days 15, 16, 17, 18
I removed and replaced the following;
pass side pivot bracket with drop bracket from'87 stx

drivers side pivot bracket with drop bracket from '87 stx

modified the existing rad arm bracket to fit the '87 rad bracket extension and block

The difference between the bump stops; '87 on left, '91 on right.

I think that's why the shocks were basically the same length both open and closed. Both the '87 stx highrider and the '91 stx have the same amount of droop and compression.
I started flexing the passenger side beam and had interference with the tie rod so did a little fixing

I welded in a stiffener where I cut but should have checked clearances first, I had to do it twice.

I also had a problem with the drive axle hitting the top and bottom rad arm bolt, so I replaced the top one with a d-28 [edit; that's a d-44 flipped, not d-28 RE EDIT; this bolt DOESN'T work, the threads on the smaller shank are slightly different, maybe from metric to standard, don't know where the d-44 TTB came from.] bolt flipped upside down, and cut the bottom bolt 3/8" shorter.

Problem solved, except for now the drive axle was hitting the beam window top when passenger side beam down and drivers side beam up, and hitting the beam window bottom when articulated opposite.Cut lines penciled in;

The cut;

Axle clearances after heating red hot and forming the metal to approximate the original opening; hammered down on the right and out on the left

Also swapped out the auto hubs for stock manual hubs.
And picked up these; sfi 3.2/5 rated driving pants and top $C345.00 taxes included and full face g-max helmet used $C60.00

Grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers 1/2" ~ $C50.00
Time ~ 40 hours
Still have lots to do, will be concentrating on shock placement next.
later,
Richard

 

[fx2prerunner]

hey you should try calling Craig at baja north in kamloops, he has alot of race experience including baja 1000 and he always has good advice

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

First off I'd like to thank everyone that's responded to my build thread, the kudos are appreciated; THANKS.
I'm running short on time so have decided to do just 2 shocks for now.
I grabbed the rad arms from my '87 and drilled two holes 2 3/4" apart, the front one 1" from the existing hole;

I bought and installed these shock mounts;

There's about 3/8" clearance between the shocks. I cut the old upper shock mount off the coil bucket and built a upper shock mount from material that I had on hand [from dumpster diving]. I'll be using the rad arm mounts from f-150's bolted to the top plate I built. There IS a gusset on top, hard to see. I may add more after drilling mount holes.

I'll see how well this stands up to the race cause I don't think I'll have time to test it before hand. I spent about 8 - 10 hours doing the drivers side, mainly cut and fit, check it, re-do it, repeat as needed. Repeated a LOT.
Also found that the bump stops from a '88 2wd f-150 5.8l were thicker rubber and less metal than the stock so I'm putting them in, a little more up travel bump absorption;

About $C50.00 spent on shock mounting so far. I still want to mount shocks in front of the beams beside the sway bar. I've figured out the lower mounts but don't have time to do the upper. Today I'll do the passenger side.
I still have to;
finalize seat mounting
build helmet back stop
seat belt shoulder mounts
fuel cell install and hook up
rear shocks
relocate battery to back
master kill switch
low oil fuel pump kill switch
mount body panels includes building mounts for box skin
and probably lots that I'm forgetting
2 weeks to 1st race

Any local volunteers?

Wish me luck,
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Quick note; the d-44 TTB top rad arm bolt DOESN'T work when flipped. The thread on the smaller shank are slightly different, as if one is metric and the other is standard.
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

one step forward, two backward

It seems like the title says; I busted a brake line and the frame behind the passenger coil bucket is very, very thin from rust.
I buttoned up the drivers side except for the brake line;

Upper shock mounting using f-150 rad arm lower shock brackets;

Started on the passenger side and realized I needed to take off the bump stop. Things like this are bound to happen when you've never done this before, I should have taken the bump stop off when I switched the drop bracket. Ohh, well,shoulda, coulda, woulda if I'da thought. So I removed the bracket and got the bump stop off. Proceeded to grind the rivets off and then pulled the coil bucket loose and found this; 1/4" thick rust that was behind the bucket

The two round holes don't belong, I put them there with a punch and hammer trying to clean off what I thought was surface rust.

I think if I incorporate a 1/8" plate bolted to the good part of the frame and welded to the coil bucket/shock mount I'll be o.k. I took a close look behind the frame and the engine cross member is right there so I think there'll be enough strength. Eventually I'll be building an engine cage and will plan to strengthen this area at that time.
Pulled the brake line I need to replace, will pick up tomorrow.
Total time spent ; 3 hrs

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

pricing rant

I went to a local rod shop to get fittings for my fuel cell, they were special order. Picked them up and I feel raped: C$105.00 for 5 fittings..... and I'm not finished!!!
I'm going to shop around a lot more, there must be places to buy cheaper good quality A/N fittings. Any suggestions?
I don't care if they are missing the fancy colored anodizing, in fact I'd prefer no bling.
Thanks,
Richard

 

[fx2prerunner]

I feel your pain, nothing cheap about A/N fittings, im really liking this build, looking forward to seeing the action shots

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A/N fittings can be replaced with JIC fittings for hydraulic hose. Apparently the hydraulic line can be used for fuel. This should save me some dollars.


I've been working on the passenger side coil bucket, this is with the shock mount cut off;

Additional plate to strengthen rotten frame;

metal risers for top shock mount;

front view;

back view;

testing shock fitment;

Plate added to frontward of coil for extra strength, viewed from back;

Top plate and plate stiffeners being welded;

About 4 hrs of head scratching and 4 hrs of work.
I ran out of wire with about 10" of welding left. New 10# flux core=C$70.00

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

[quote author=sloue]
all looks real good, dont forget that your front shock wiil need a touch more travel than the back one ,, its traveling a slightly bigger radious.... if you think in terms of a circle one inside of another . there s a longer distance to travel on the out side one than on the inside one. i learned this the hard way on the back of a dune popper ,totaled a couple sets of shocks befor i was schooled by one of the old boys
[/quote]
Thanks for heads up.

I got the passenger side just about finished, need to do calipers and pads, extended brake lines, drivers to passengers line, and bleed.
Here's a pic of the completed coil bucket and shock mount system;

Some [not panel, but I can't think of the term] nuts I copied from Ford for the top of the shock mount;

Messy garage;

Here's some pics of the pitman arm, the small one is a '91 STX Ranger, the big one is a '87 STX Highrider Ranger. Looks like I'll have quicker steering;

Working on the brakes tomorrow, and fuel cell.
I'm wondering if I use a frame rail pump from an '88 f-150 will I need a low pressure pump as well? Anyone have any insight on this?
Later,
Richard