alwaysFlOoReD's race truck

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Day 12
Not too much done. Take heed when grinding, especially with zip discs. Wear a full face helmet!!!! [ I wasn't but didn't get hurt. I did have safety glasses on though. ] I had one explode tonight and had shrapnel all over. I was grinding trying to get the f23king rubber mounts off. The system I came up with is to grind the nut off the bottom, then slice the washer off in pieces, then pry the rubber off with a screw driver. The rest just pulls out. This is with the cab lift up 2~3 inches.
I think I'm going to use the full 2" body lift 'puck' to mount the cab to the frame. My thinking is I'll have more room to work underneath, more room for a 302 swap in the future, and I can sink my seat down for more head room. This will lift the body ~ 1" higher than stock. Though plans can change.

Had a pretty friendly wild cat visit for the third time tonight. I fed it last time so I guess I may have a shop cat. I saw it last fall a couple of times, but it must have had a tough winter because it lost parts of its' ears and has a huge scab on its' forehead from frostbite Any who, later
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well, I got the rest of the body mounts off. Once I did one the rest came easy . I slipped the 2" lift pucks in and set the body down and there is a 1/2" gap at the back mounts. I guess the rubber mounts took care of any discrepancies. I'm going to fill the gap with washers tacked together. Then I have to wait for the cage guy, hopefully soon.
Richard

Day 13 + 14
Some things I forgot to mention in other posts;
I mounted the seat to some 1/8" x 3" x 20" metal and then mounted that to the regular sliders and put in truck. This is so I can figure the best seat location and then mount it in solid. The sliders have a built in tilt-back and so do the seats so I will remove some of that tilt when I permanently mount the seat. In the pic the seat is all the way forward.

Pressure washed the truck.
Bolted on the 'new' frame mount.

Old frame mount

Removed all skid-plates and some misc. brackets.
Tightened cab to frame, used 2" lift 'pucks'.

Time ~ 2hrs
While welding up the washers I found some rancho 5000 shocks that I bought a couple of years ago. I picked them up at a yard sale for $50.00 They're new, 3" over for a dodge dakota.

RS 5136
RS 5010
They have the same mounting bolt pattern as the rangers so I hope to use them eventually. I'll have to check measurements, if anybody would know about this, let me know. Thanks
Some pics of the shop kat

Later
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Took my truck to the shop where the cage is getting done. These guys know their stuff. Wish I'd taken pics, there was '68 Firebird with cage being updated to 8 sec. specs., 1 of 100 made '10 Hemi Challenger there for cage install, about 4 rods in various stages of being built. Titanium wheelie bars being repaired - new 6500.00 used 2500.00 + 950.00 in repairs. This would be my dream shop [ insert icon for drooling ]. He says ~2 weeks. cost $2000.00.
Can't wait,
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #86 on: March 20, 2010, 07:08:48 AM »

It's been a while and nothing new I thought I'd write my ideas down for something to do. I've been researching cut and turn beams, but I think that is something for the future. I keep reminding myself, this is your first race truck, K.I.S.S. [keep it simple, stupid]. So I will install the stx bracketry and build longer radius arms. I've been researching stock ford coils and come up with this;
'91 ranger i.d. 3.5" installed ht. 10.5" load rate 1447# spring rate 430# free ht. 13.75"
'66-79 f-150 i.d. 4.0" 13.0" 1330# 271# 17.5"
[under 6350 gvw]
'76-79 f-150 4.0" 13" 1575# 271# 18.25"
'80-96 f-150 4.0" 12.13" 1428# 366# 16.19"
I'm thinking the '76-79 coil looks the best to me from what I have on hand. (The '66-79 would probably be better 'cause of less load rate but I don't have one.) The load rate is 125# higher but the spring rate is a lot less. With some good shocks I should be able to absorb the jumps and not have to harsh a ride.I'm going to look at some dual shock coil buckets from my '80 bronco and see if I can scab them onto the ranger some how.
For the rear I'm going to move the front spring perch forward 6" and do 64" chevy main leaf with the rest being the thinnest leaves I can scrounge up, probably off my spare b-II's. Thinking of a 2 link to prevent bunny hopping, maybe make a set of Caltracs. I've always liked the design and don't see why they wouldn't work on dirt.
I have to;
swap manual hubs on
build front and rear bumper
acquire, install and plumb fuel cell
Pull 4.0 and tranny from exploder (spare)
truss rear end
beef up beams
check brakes
mount seats and belts
I'll add to this later, I have to get some sleep.
Richard
Still looking for a used fuel cell and fire suit, I might end up coughing up the cash

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Quote from: Tom S on March 21, 2010, 09:31:25 AM
"I think you're on the right track. So are we talkin a ladder bar set up? I wanna see one built because my 91 is getting that setup in the future."

Similar. I'm limited to a two link with leafs 'cause of rules. A ladder bar might work, I would have to think. Most designs I've seen use the leaves as the upper portion of a 4-link. The Caltracs have a bar under the spring with a pivot at the front spring eye that transfers forward/up energy to downward energy just behind the spring eye. http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.php I'm just not sure which ones hinder articulation, though I don't think I need a bunch. Opinions? I will have to see what is used in [the near stock] rally/road racing, as that is the closest I can think of to what I'm trying to accomplish. Also no/low budget but can fab a little myself [tools but little experience; high school shop classes, pre-apprentice diesel mech. classes, some night welding classes all 25+ yrs ago]
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

« Reply #96 on: March 22, 2010, 06:29:31 PM »
I will be doing 64" chevy main leaf plus the shackle flip with extension. I went to a farmers' field, the guy was giving me the leafs from a beater of his and ended up getting towed by his 4x4 tractor. That road was a sheet of ice, his tractor almost didn't make it!! Going back in a couple of weeks. I'm leaning towards a homebrew Caltrac system, I've always thought they were a great idea for drag racers since they first came out, and that's kinda what i'm doing. With a few corners to make it more interesting [also don't think I need too much ground clearance as this will only be driven at the track]. Sloue, can you take a pic of your top bar? One of the reasons I was leaning to a bottom bar is then the leafs are in tension rather than compression.

quote from sloue;
"http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=314996&d=1184483679
mounted to ether side of axle tube as close to center. just one required. this is what i WAS going to do but after i got all my parts for the rear with the flip shackle 64 inches and the out board shocks the wheel hop is gone no sway bars and i can drift a donut at a 4 way stop no problem i would short track my rear set up any day i would need a shock up grade but this works . best mods i have done the diff in stability is out of this world"

« Reply #105 on: March 24, 2010, 02:30:37 PM »
Thanks, sloue. I think I'll try without first, like your saying. Would save cash and time,that's for sure.
Richard

« Reply #107 on: March 24, 2010, 02:45:52 PM »
I've researched spring packs, everyone seems to like to use many thin leaves to build there pack. Spring packs mentioned have been Durango and B-ii and another I can't think of off the top of my head. Seems they end up with between 5 -8 springs. I've got plenty of B-II springs so I'll try those first.
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

« Reply #111 on: April 06, 2010, 08:07:51 PM »

Well, I don't know about the cage

I am so freaking happy . It looks really good,well worth C$2000.00. Once I get the front sorted out the engine cage can be done for ~C$500.00
p.s. the seat isn't mounted yet.
I am taking it to get the frame sandblasted tomorrow morning, I'm hoping for ~$50-75, that will save me hours with the wire wheel.
Did I tell you I'm so freaking happy!!!
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yeah, thanks everyone, it looks real good. Wish I could say it was my work.
Took the truck in this morning to get the frame sand blasted. Wish I would have done that before the cage, hindsight is 20/20. Paid C$75.00 plus a mention of the business;H@A Industrial Painting 403-346-6062 for anyone in/around Red Deer.

They did a great job, all the frame behind the cab and a bit of the frame in front. I figure that saved me about 4 to 5 hours of work.
Next is the front end;
tear it out, el cheapo rebuild,
stx drop brackets,
extended radius arms,
fsb dual shock coil buckets and springs, new shocks.
I have pool league play-offs starting tomorrow, so no work in progress updates till next week sometime.
Richard

 

[jaymegriffiths]

cool build man i like your truck. in fact i was just in red deer last weekend.
i get out to alberta everyone once in a while good to know your out n about

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thanks for the comments. I've been busy; cleaning up all the parts trucks [getting ready for crusher], at work, both the money making kind and the 'honey, do you have time' kind. And believe me, when I'm asked if I have time, I make it !
Haven't got a whole lot done, but here goes;
Started tearing apart the '87 stx
Drop pitman arm. I removed the drag link by hitting the end of the arm [where the hammer is] with two hammers at the same time, four not that hard hits and it dropped out.

Tranny crossmember, any one know why the different design It has rubber bushings at the outer mounting points, as well as at the tranny.

Mounting at outside of frame for trans crossmember

Passenger side radius arm bracket

I had some d-44 ttb beams with the springs still attached [got for free] unknown vintage, and bought some '79 full size bronco coil springs C$40.00, and the '87 stx springs. Left to right; '79 fsb, unknown, unknown, '87 stx, '79 fsb

Pic of '91 ranger spring

The '79 bronco spring has a spring rate of 271 ppi [pounds per inch], the '91 ranger has 430[?] ppi. They look about 4" longer than the stx. The unknown spring seat is 3/4" thicker than the stx. I also ordered '79 bronco springs with progressive coils, same ppi. Later I'll use the linear ones in my b-II
The stx;

The race truck;

The front of the truck is supported at the front of the frame on doubled up 4x4's plated with a 2x8. One 4x4 was pretty creaky ! the front tire is 6" off the ground. I have to figure out if I can use the stx brackets with the d-35. Also I'm going to build extended radius arms and trans crossmember combo on the stx frame then transfer them to the race truck.
Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well, I've put the front end stuff on hold till I'm sure the truck is ready and running good. I can race with stock if I have to. In fact, maybe I should, just so I have an idea of the improvements, if any, when I do the longer rad arm and fsb springs. Today I started on the seat. Spent about 5 hours researching how to mount it and finally came up with a plan. The guys at OFN helped me out.http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=93202#post93202
Here's my first idea

Was told it wasn't a good idea, and I wasn't convinced till I saw video of a dummy in a 5-point harness hit the wall at 30 mph. It doesn't sound that fast, and it isn't, but man that dummy got thrown around. That showed me that the advice given was good. I don't like redoing things but ... I did.
Second attempt.

That didn't work, It was too high to attach the belts.
Third attempt; shitty welds till I figured out I needed to turn up the wire speed,

Gusseted

Seat temp. in place

I still have to work on my sub belt mount and figure out the exact height and degree tilt back I want. I spent about 8 hrs fab time on this, I bet a real fabricator would have taken an hour. Material cost ~ C$ 10.00 for 10' of 1x1x1/8 square tube. The aluminum brackets I got for free dumpster diving. I do a fair amount of that behind fab shops, you wouldn't believe what they consider garbage. Of course, at 50 to 100 $/hr, it's cheaper to buy new than fix.
Richard

 

[kris97ranger]

this things cool

 

[mazda96]

so have you decided what the front suspension will be? also do you know if the spring rate for the 91 you have should be the same as the one on my 96 2wd ranger? 430 seems reall stiff to me.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

so have you decided what the front suspension will be? also do you know if the spring rate for the 91 you have should be the same as the one on my 96 2wd ranger? 430 seems reall stiff to me.

I haven't done any work to the front yet, I'm running short on time. My thoughts are to build extended radius arms and trans crossmember and then use the new springs I ordered.
As far as spring rates, I'm using rates as posted on Moogs' website. I figure they're going to be the same as or close to the stock rates.
http://www.101part.com/coilsprings/Moog_Coil_Springs.htm
http://www.101part.com/coilspring.htm
Monroe shock zip file;
.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=389224&d=1197917206
Richard
edit; your '96 will have 377# or 430# or 489# depending on motor and wheelbase

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

More pics of the seat mount.
Doubled up the sides for belt mounting

first try at sub belt mount

Final product

I've spent about 8 to 12 hrs so far on the seat and belt mounting and probably have another day before it's finalized. It's tedious work but I like walking and talking and fucquing and farting so I think it's time well spent
Richard