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96 Ranger 2.3L Won't Start


Rocker3829

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This could be a problem with the clutch switch.
Thanks for the reply, I've actually never dealt with the clutch switch before, any tips on where to start and any tips in general dealing with it?

EDIT: Just looked at the clutch switch and it is on the pushrod with the clutch pedal, but it stays still when I push the pedal down and it moves up when I release the pedal. Is it supposed to stay in place the entire time? This could be the issue
 
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Bryan22

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did you try jumping the selonoid/relay thing on the firewall? also could be it went south. and i wouldn't think that it would click if it was the clutch switch.
 

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did you try jumping the selonoid/relay thing on the firewall? also could be it went south. and i wouldn't think that it would click if it was the clutch switch.

Actually haven't tried that yet, how exactly should I go about doing that, and if it starts by jumping it, I'm assuming that means the selonoid is bad?
 
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modelageek

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i agree with Bryan I don't think you would get clinking if the clutch switch was gone. I don't know the answer to the small wire question on the starter. on my 99 there is no firewall relay/solenoid. the starter relay is in the power distribution box. I am not sure what year they stopped putting it on the firewall. sounds like you are getting close, keep plugging along.
 

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just jump the two posts (small wire from battery to small wire heading towards starter) with a screwdriver. and yes if that works, it's probably the culprit.
 

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as Byron says try and jump the solenoid. I looked on rockauto and it appears you have a fender mounted starter relay/solenoid. remember to turn the key to on then jump the solenoid.
 

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as Byron says try and jump the solenoid. I looked on rockauto and it appears you have a fender mounted starter relay/solenoid. remember to turn the key to on then jump the solenoid.

Thanks for the tips y'all, just came back inside, tried jumping it (I definitely did it right, found it mounted on the fender inside the engine bay between the distribution box and the battery). It still just clicks and the motor won't turn over, this mean I have a bad ignition wire? I put the new starter I bought on it while testing, so maybe a wire?
 

modelageek

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sorry i f i am asking questions already asked. I am getting confused. has the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter been tested. I forget exactly how to jump a fender solenoid but I did not think you did it by jumping the 2 small terminals I thought you either jumped the 2 large ones or a large and small one but i cant remeber. I do know you need an insulated tool and insulated gloves if you can and be carful the truck is not in gear because i believe it might jump. maybe some peeps will jump in about the solenoid jumping.
 

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sorry i f i am asking questions already asked. I am getting confused. has the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter been tested. I forget exactly how to jump a fender solenoid but I did not think you did it by jumping the 2 small terminals I thought you either jumped the 2 large ones or a large and small one but i cant remeber. I do know you need an insulated tool and insulated gloves if you can and be carful the truck is not in gear because i believe it might jump. maybe some peeps will jump in about the solenoid jumping.
I can't remember a lot of questions asked about the solenoid other than actually jumping it and checking the connections so you're good man. The starter and solenoid have been tested and have checked out ok but there was corrosion on the male spade and part of it came off in this entire process of trying to get this thing to start, so I went ahead and put the new starter (came with new solenoid) in and attached the cables (the new ignition wire spot has a new piece you crimp onto the ignition wire, I am getting full contact now from that wire into the new starter, I thought that might have been a problem before, but it most definitely is not one now).

All I actually did with regards to jumping the solenoid is take the rubber cap off one of the ends (the post that actually sends power to the starter) and used a screwdriver to "connect" the two ends. I got a few sparks (assuming it tried to start) but all I still heard was clicking again.
 

modelageek

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well if you have adequate power to the fender solenoid and you jump the posts that let you bypass the elctromagnet in the solenoid and you are still getting clicking at the new starter. sounds like it has to be a wire going from the fender solenoid to the starter or a ground. right?
 

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well if you have adequate power to the fender solenoid and you jump the posts that let you bypass the elctromagnet in the solenoid and you are still getting clicking at the new starter. sounds like it has to be a wire going from the fender solenoid to the starter or a ground. right?
That is exactly what I'm thinking. I'm gonna have to check the grounds out again, but if it is a wire from the solenoid to the starter (honestly I believe that to be it at the moment, and this has to be a stupid question) I'm not exactly sure what I have to buy, literally just new cables from the fender solenoid to the starter? Can't believe I had an easing time taking the tranny off the truck and installin a new slave than getting this thing to start, but this just shows my lack of experience in dealing with starting problems.
 

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Quick update, about to take my old battery cables to advance and make sure I get the correct length on the new ones. I definitely missed cleaning a couple of the grounds, and the small wire is probably bad, so I'm gonna just spend 15 bucks and get a new positive and negative battery cables. I'll shoot another update after I get them on and try to start the truck, appreciate all the help so far, hopefully these new cables will do the trick
 

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Now I'm finally about to lose it. I just got done putting the new battery cables on (they work because I have all the electronics and domelight and headlights working again) and it STILL is just clicking. Not to sure what to check now....
 

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Somethin just hit me that 1) I haven't done yet and 2) I feel like a complete noob at this if this works (this is a moment similar to me forgetting to put the top 2 tranny bolts on). When I was replacing the old slave and put everything back together, the last thing I was in the process of doing was bleeding the clutch. Just realized I have not done that since putting everything back together. Am I correct in that this is possibly not working the clutch correctly, not disengaging it so it hasn't triggered the safety switch in the clutch pedal (to the computer) saying it is ok to start? I'm starting to just throw ideas here because I'm almost out of ideas now. I have no idea if that would really keep the motor from attempting to crank and force this clicking sound but again, just an offshoot idea here.
 

modelageek

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I did not reread the post. maybe i forgot a few things. if you have adequate power at the solenoid/relay I think that means the clutch switch is working. also you are getting a clicking sound. that means that some power is getting to the starter. in post #16 you described your clutch switch but I did not understand it. finally the clutch bleeding would have no affect on this the pedal is a mechanical action that opens and closes the switch. it is not related to the bleeding. I think you need to calmy get out the multimeter and figure out exactly where and how much you have power? imho
 
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