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2.3L ('83-'97) 93 help


Mikezx636

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So I’ve acquired a $500 turd box. The PO claimed it would fire on a brake clean, starting fuel. So I took it home. Fresh battery and fuel pump assembly was purchased. Threw in the new battery and went to spin it over to make sure it did spin over. Threw brake clean down the throat of it and nothing. Pulled an injector plug and a noid light noticed that I didn’t have any activity. Got me thinking if I had spark. Surprise I don’t have spark either. I wanna lean to a bad pcm. But before I do I’d like to listen to what others may think before I start throwing unnecessarily money into it
 

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rumblecloud

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What's the worst that could happen?
If you keep calling it a turd box, it may never start.

Saw your intro post... Welcome to TRS....

And don't worry, the experts will be along shortly to help you spend "necessary" money.
 

Mikezx636

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Well I know I should be calling it a turd but working in the automotive field for serval years I call them all turds lol. My biggest down fall is electrical diagnostics.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Not a bad looking truck.

I maybe wrong but i think the crank sensor can cause a no spark/no fuel condition as it tells both when to fire. I think.

@scotts90ranger
 

GRoman

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Would this 93 have cam/crank sensors
depressing enought they have position sensors and they ar a pain in the dick just like pulling the other four sparks
 

Mikezx636

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If the crank sensor is behind the timing belt not too worried about that. timing belt kit isn’t too expensive and don’t know when the last time it was replaced either
 

GRoman

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you can look up your make model engine and sadly wheel configuration on google then put pcm pinout
 

scotts90ranger

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The crank sensor is behind the timing cover, yes, and drives pretty much everything... spark and fuel. I can't help on that connector, yours is slightly different than my setup... a timing belt and crank sensor might not be a bad idea, crank sensor is a known issue sometimes although I've only had one give out and it would not run hot but once cooled off ran fine...

For a wiring diagram there's a '91 diagram in the tech section I think in the turbo swap area, the only difference from '91 to '93 is the EGR flow sensor wiring wise. My internet is junk and cranky lately otherwise I'd give you a link...

'93 is in the EEC IV area so you can pull codes with the CEL and a jumper although chances are that won't tell you much... part of why I opted for a '97 for a daily driver to get OBD II... Once you get it going I expect few issues but figuring out what the previous owners did is usually fun...
 

RonD

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1989-1994 2.3l Rangers used dual spark plugs and dual coil packs
All operated by the ICM(ignition control module) located on the front of lower intake manifold, behind fan
ICM runs the spark independent from the Engine Computer(PCM)
PCM only runs the fuel injection system in 1993

2.3l SOHC Lima engines also use a Timing Belt, these should be changed every 80-100k miles
They can break which of course causes no start, but no engine damage
So look behind timing belt cover and make sure Cam Gear is turning when engine is being cranked, if not.................................

ICM system has 3 parts
Crank sensor, behind timing belt cover just above crank shaft's belt gear
Coil packs
ICM
ICM gets the timing signal from Crank sensor, then sparks the coil packs based on that timing, no PCM involved

BOTH spark plugs in each cylinder spark at the same time, this is done to add more power, several engines over the years have used dual spark plugs for extra power
This 2.3l SOHC engine was used from 1974 thru 1988 with just 4 spark plugs and a distributor, so this engine will run with just 1 coil pack and its 4 spark plugs, just have a bit less power
So if there is no starting/firing by adding fuel manually to this engine then BOTH Coil Packs are not working
In a 1993 the Intake side spark plugs and coil pack may be disabled while cranking, so ICM is only sparking the Exhaust side coil pack and spark plugs, this was done to get higher spark voltages while cranking
Intake side comes on line when RPMs are above 400, cranking speed is 200rpms

So if you are manually testing for spark only test the exhaust side spark plug wires

ICMs were a known failure point, not "common" just known, more so than crank sensor
Coil packs can also fail but you can swap them around, 2 failed coil packs at the same time would be very very long odds, lol
And coil packs usually just fail on one side, so disable 1/4 spark or 2/3 spark not all 4

The ICM sends the crank sensor's Timing Signal to the PCM, so it can time injectors
So no injector pulse(NOID Light) would also track back to ICM or crank sensor

I wouldn't spend any time on PCM(engine computer) until you can get the engine to fire by manually adding fuel, i.e. solve the Spark issue

The center wire on each coil pack connector should have 12volts with key on
These same wires also power up the ICM and crank sensor, red/green stripe wire, this 12v comes from ignition switch in the cab

The CEL(check engine light) should also come on with Key On, this means PCM has booted up
CEL should go OFF when you start to crank engine over, this means PCM is getting a valid Timing Signal from ICM/Crank sensor
If CEL stays on then no timing signal
 

Mikezx636

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Well, led digital test light will come in handy very soon. Another question. The freeze/ expansion plug behind the bell housing that would be a water jacket correct
 

Mikezx636

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Man!!! A sbf sounds so much easier atm. I’ve got a 3.8 4r70 that’s waiting to go into something
 

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