85 b2 4x4

[92xplorer4x4]

hey broncdoc,please make that list.
heres the dizzy i have.i got the part number off of it and.............

DIST,FORD V6 2600/2800 UNIL

The industry standard w/ adjustable mechanical advance curve. Triggered by photo-optic infrared LED system. Improved combustion efficiency and economy, increased spark plug life & cold weather starting, and maintenance free operation.
Model Number: 4560801

so i have mechaically advance

 

[92xplorer4x4]

ok now i am confussed,summit sells them but list them for inline 6's???????????????......

heres their ad...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=4560801&dds=1

now i wonder what year motor i have.

 

[92xplorer4x4]

wow...this has me thinking...see the smoke...what else is done to this motor,i mean if it has a $400 dizzy,what else is lurking in there.......

 

[84bluebronco2]

Removing most of those wires requires the duraspark conversion?

 

[bonedoc]

Don't quite me on this...but as long as the distributor fits and is for a 6 cyl. don't think it matters if it is a V-6 or inline 6. I'm not very familiar with a mechanically advanced distributor, my guess would be centrifugal force advances it, if you really get jammed up and can't figure it out, the distributor, cap adapter, rotor and cap that is listed on the duraspark swap tech page costs about $120 to get. Then you would have the vacuum advance.
Yeah...it does make you wonder what else was done, some you will probaly never know, but it sounds like you have a good start. It is just figuring out where they were going with some of it. Can you contact the previous owner and ask? It may shed some light.
I'll get started on that list as soon as I can. I list wires on drivers side and passenger side, I'll go by color and then where it goes or if cut, etc. I'll also list what I did with the vacuum lines. Don't know what ones you still have. I cut all my wires back to the main harness bundle on the pasenger side fender well where it runs by the cannister there and into the passenger compartment to the computer.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just pulled the wires off the computer and through the firewall then replaced the metal plate and caulked the hole. Then I worked my way back to the connector by the coil on the drivers apron then i stripped all the shielding off the harness to expose the wires and traced the wires still being used Water temp Oil pressure Alternator I believe there were only two or three wires I actually cut at the connector for computer power and there was a connector on the start solenoid for the choke relay that went away. I am not sure how the choke is wired for yours probably a hot and a ground and I wired the vapor cannister solenoid and float bowl solenoid to the key on for the computer.

 

[Ranger Kip]

Lookin good

 

[92xplorer4x4]

so all the wires from the computer can be removed????all i really need is the typical gauges and alt and ignition power, correct(?).i am thing about rewiring the whole thing,all the wiring is chopped up and like a birds nest,and i have a few things that dont work....fuel gauge and hvac controls.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you figured out how the ignition is wired I am pretty sure the computer is not in the loop but you never know what someone else did. Unplug the computer and see if it runs. then there is a connector by the coil on the drivers side apronunplug that connector (rectangular 8 wires) if the wires from the harness are good to that point from the firewall you start there there should be two wires that get a pulsing voltage key on they go to the guages then two wires go to the alternator, I believe the HVAC control wires are there also. I just stripped the insulation and tape off the harness for the computer and kept the wires being used. So unplug the computer and see if it runs the same then take the wires out of the firewall and move your way back to the 8 wire connector like I said I only had to cut two or three wires to remove the computer harness completely just find the wires for the guages and the alternator and wrap them neatly in one of the insulators off the old harness you will be amazed how much room you will have and cut and cap the wires from the connector for possible future use.

 

[bonedoc]

Kim is right, for me I left my computer because I have the A4LD trans and the computer runs the overdrive. By leaving the computer my overdrive works fine with nothing else done in the duraspark conversion. You have the 5 speed so you don't need the computer at all. I don't believe the computer controls any of the guages, just need to seperate those wires out of the harness. It is amazing how clean it is after you get everything out.

Looking at your pictures you have ALOT of excess wire in there. Once you clean that out it will be much easier to see what was done previously and you can then clean that up, making it more durable and neater.

I'll try to get you the list of wires I still have intact tonight.

 

[92xplorer4x4]

ok thanks.

here is the fuel pump i am installing tomorrow....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-12S/

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do you have a volt ohm meter on the drivers side the computer wires go to a 8 wire connector unplug that connector and strip all the plastic and tape off the wires to the alternator it is obvious the ones you need but you said the temp guage is not working. turn the ignition on and check the connector there should be two wires that have a pulsing voltage about 8 volts one for the engine temp red/wht and the other is for the oil pressure wht/red . one is for the alternator goes to the regulator orange/lt blu and another one for the alternator that dont go to nothing wht/blk. The heavy guage to the alternator is obvious. At the connector you have two wires going to the coil red /lt green is a ignition wire you can use for whatever and the green/yellow is not used it was the signal wire for the ignition from the dizzy to the coil

 

[92xplorer4x4]

thanks i will check all that in the morning and also be removing some wire...thanks for the great info.

 

[bonedoc]

Okay 92xplorer...here we go!

I tried to keep it simple...I know this will be clear as mud!! lol Don't wory to much because if you cut a wrong wire you can always re connect it. We did! Mine is a little different because we used a 4 pin GM HEI module instead of the duraspark box.

Driver's side
1. 8 wire rectangular plug didn't do anything other than cut the Red/green stripe wire and splice to red wire on positive side of coil. Now we have a pigtail coming off that connection going to the B pin on my HEI module.
2. Green wire form Neg side of coil ran to C pin on HEI module.
3. There are two round plugs, took the red/blue stripe wire cut from each and spliced those two together.
4. After removing the condenser from the side of the factory coil, ran a ground wire from coil and grounded it through one of the mounting bolts on my HEI module.

That is it on Driver's side. Now to the Passenger side which has alot more.

1. 3 wires coming off the distributor,
a. Black/white stripe, this is ground, grounded to valve cover bolt.
b. Purple wire, this we ran up back of firewall to the W pin on HEI module.
c. Orange wire, again ran this up back of fire wall to the G pin on HEI module.
We ran both of those wires in a heat resistant fabric sleeve, each wire was splice to a longer wire to reach other side of engine compartment, I might of gotten them mixed up because splices were in the jacket, so if you have any problems try swapping there positions. Was pretty sure I got them correct though.

2. Power for electric choke, I tied it in to a switchable off back of alternator, black/white dashes.

3. Now for the passenger fender well. My truck had 3 looms here, 1 large wire bundle, 2 smaller wire bundles. 1 small loom went down under the engine, I left that one alone. the other small loom went over the top of the motor to my AC condenser. The big loom, all wires were cut except for 4. I kept a solid red, green /purple dashes, solid orange, and orange/yellow stripe.

That was pretty much it. Looking at my wires it appears the the temp sensor, alternator wires, oil pressure all come form driver's side, they are loomed into the wires from my 8 wire plug. I left those alone

After I was done, I loomed everything back up and made it look neat.
I hope this helps, sorry if it is confusing, if you have any questions post on this thread but then send me a private message. The PM gets sent to my email and I will get it on my blackberry and can respond quicker.

 

[92xplorer4x4]

wow...i just put the fuel pump on and noticed a huge difference.it idles very good(still has a lopey cam idle,sounds mean),instant throttle responce,fuel filetrs are staying full...i have clear ones.

next is the wiring stuff mentioned above this post..fun,fun,fun