One of the members here and on the TRS forums has done the 88400's, he's got pics over on TRS or he can show you a link to em here, if you ask him nicely.
His screen name here is "SRL" Tri-y's need "tweaking" to fit with an AOD or any other 164 tooth bell. 88500's fit with either, but still have the same two deficiencies I've covered already. Header fit with anyheader, also depends heavily on engine placement, you can try one brand header and it fits in one guy's truck, but may not fit in another's, chances are no two have the motor located exactly alike. What ever brand or type you choose, be prepared to make changes in something to make em work. This is true in any kind of engine swap. If you can handle that fact, you need to drop the swap now. Most of us have gone thru all this trial and error process in doing our swaps. I personally bought and used the 89500's, then when I wasn't happy with the right side in that set, bought a right side 94-95 Stang header(I didn't want to notch the frame to fit it), then a Hedman 351W swap shorty (right side) for the 65-66 Stangs, modified it heavily both by replacing two tubes then resorted to the BFH method to make it fit. Then bought a used set of Hooker long tubes that were supposedly for a Ranger, but they didn't fit. Then finally bought my present set of tri-y's used off ebay for $85. I've used these on several engine combos with both E7 heads and Canfields. I welded up the outside of the tubes all around the flanges to allow porting to better match the Canfield head ports, and finally, repaired the "Y" sections when they cracked. Even after all that I did with the tri-y's, I still think they're the best $85 headers I've ever bought, better even that some far more expensive ones. After all that's been said and done, I guided SRL toward trying the 88400's on his swap. Between all of us, we think we're pretty well qualified to advise anyone else.