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43" tires on a BII


D'cheat

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Dont second guess yourself. You had a plan when you did your BII. Stick to it :) Besides, your BII looks like it could eat a jeep alive. Keep it just the way you have it!
I hate you.:thefinger: I'm just finishing up my BII and now you have me second guessing myself. Im sitting at about 8" of lift on 37s. Thinking I need to lose two or three inches and take more out of the fenders.

Looking good, cant wait to see it when its done.

-Jester
 
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D'cheat

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The Jester Race

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Dont second guess yourself. You had a plan when you did your BII. Stick to it :) Unless you are willing to relocate your axle forward, then you need that height for the 37's to clear the firewall. Hell, im scooting mine forward to the point of hitting the front grill to clear these. But then again, im willing to chop my BII up to the point of looking goofy to get it to perform better.
My axle is already forward, 6". It would be pretty easy to lose 2", lose the blocks in the rear and take 2" out of the front shackles. I'll have to see how it works, if it feels too tipsy I have options:D. I'm not afraid to chop mine, its not a daily driver it still frequents the pavement so it needs to be legal and somewhat comfortable.

Here is a pic of mine before any fender trimming.
 
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RUTH

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Yup. That was my rally car. I miss it soooo much. I have a few trophies on the shelf cause of it. I hated to sell her but, she funded my crawler. So meh.

Airshocks are not that bad. No worse than coilovers. Really any rig with a long travel suspension needs to use a center limiting strap f/r to keep from unloading. The guys in competition say that the strap should have about 3" of slack at ride height. This will allow for regular suspension movement and good'ol left/right flex, but holds you down when on steep climbs or deep side hills.
The main reason that im using airshocks is the ability to have constant dampening during suspension articulation. A good example is your rig, Ruth. I have a funny feeling that when your suspension has flexed to the point of your coils sliding down the retainer, it tips abruptly toward that side once you come off the obstacle. Thats because for that moment, there is nothing holding up your rig on that side until the coil comes in contact with the coil bucket once more. Moments like that cause rollovers so often. With airshocks, you always have some sort of support. Be it full extension or compression. Your rig will not have a moment when its not being supported by dampening.

And they are cheaper and easier to tune that coilovers. A few cc's of oil here, some more nitrogen there and you have a new shock. Coilovers require multiple sets of coils to get everything just right. Then the coils sag over time and you have to do it all over again. $$$
All my airshocks will need is a shot of nitrogen every now and again. Far less $$$

:D
yes true and very understandable... and i actual dont like the coil dropping out like that, yeah cool for flex, but i have learned that flex isn't everything, yes it helps but like you were saying, with the coil able to drop out, at certain times of wheeling their wont be any wait from the front axle and tire keeping that part of the vehicle down... im sure it sounds as i rambled which i did, but hope it makes since...


and on another note as you seem very negligible, jumping with air shocks, is it bad??? i mean maybe 3 -5 max, do they take the landings similar to a coil-over, or ??? just curios, really never thought about it till now
 

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[/QUOTE]

this is sweet... :headbang:

just had to :)


only thing i could maybe suggest, is if you do lower it and you end up reworking the front chackes, i was always told having them at a close to 45 degrees is best for a good ride and aloowence for the leafe to get full advantage of stuffing, and dropping out, just incase you didnt know, but still two thumbs up, like that alot:icon_thumby::icon_thumby:
 
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D'cheat

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There are quite a few teams that use them in King Of The Hammers races with no problem. Most airshocks have internal bumpstops, so landings are not an issue. Id run a separate hydro- bump stop just to be safe.
Its all about how you valve them and adjust the "spring rate" with the oil. My rally car had maybe 6" of travel and I could land 10' jumps at 80mph and my spine is still intact. So somethings working.
Monster trucks use them :) Doubt that we can take a harder landing then them!
 
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The Jester Race

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this is sweet... :headbang:

just had to :)


only thing i could maybe suggest, is if you do lower it and you end up reworking the front chackes, i was always told having them at a close to 45 degrees is best for a good ride and aloowence for the leafe to get full advantage of stuffing, and dropping out, just incase you didnt know, but still two thumbs up, like that alot:icon_thumby::icon_thumby:
Thanks! Yours is pretty bitchin too.:icon_thumby: It was actually one of the rigs I was looking at when I was when I was planning my build(fullwidth).

Rancho suggests between 8 and 11 degrees for those springs(Rancho 44150). I tried 45 degrees the first time around and the springs were STIFF. Too much angle doesn't allow the springs to work. I found that out the hard way.

Can't wait to get out and wheel it.:icon_hornsup:

-Jester
 

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ok cool, i was just throwin it out their, but im glad it works, and i suppose it prolly does depend on the springs and such... and yeah monter trucks are crazy.... cant believe how far they have come
 

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ok cool, i was just throwin it out their, but im glad it works, and i suppose it prolly does depend on the springs and such... and yeah monter trucks are crazy.... cant believe how far they have come
Hijack: How is that D44 holding up with those 42s?

-Jester
 

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havnt actualy broke anything, but i completly rebuilt it when i started, but i also know its weak, so i drivel like that lol, i didnt plan on running this size tire, but i got a good deal i couldnt pass up.. so for now it is what it is till i can get some money back in savings.. :)
 

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one other thing though, my buddy is running a ranger with 42" iroks, and we have wheel hops bounced that thing a few times on the rocks and surprisingly didn't break it. so i dont know.. I JUST WANT A 60:bawling:
 

D'cheat

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Your rig is not bad at all. A little tall, but nothing that screams "TIPPY!" Its about normal. Tell you what. Split the difference. Get bigger tires!

A quick way to tell your tipping point: Take a frontal picture of your truck at ride height. Draw a line from the bottom of a tire to the opposite corner of your hood. That is your safety margin. If that line passes vertical, then your going to tip. The taller the truck, the sharper the angle of that margin.

My axle is already forward, 6". It would be pretty easy to lose 2", lose the blocks in the rear and take 2" out of the front shackles. I'll have to see how it works, if it feels too tipsy I have options:D. I'm not afraid to chop mine, though its not a daily driver it still frequents the pavement so it needs to be legal and somewhat comfortable.
 

The Jester Race

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one other thing though, my buddy is running a ranger with 42" iroks, and we have wheel hops bounced that thing a few times on the rocks and surprisingly didn't break it. so i dont know.. I JUST WANT A 60:bawling:
:icon_rofl:. That makes me feel better about my 37s on my HP44.

-Jester
 

D'cheat

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Using Ruth's rig... Again



 

The Jester Race

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Your rig is not bad at all. A little tall, but nothing that screams "TIPPY!" Its about normal. Tell you what. Split the difference. Get bigger tires!

A quick way to tell your tipping point: Take a frontal picture of your truck at ride height. Draw a line from the bottom of a tire to the opposite corner of your hood. That is your safety margin. If that line passes vertical, then your going to tip. The taller the truck, the sharper the angle of that margin.
Thats an option too, I have the gears for it(5.13). Great tip on the tipping point.

Thanks

-Jester
 

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