3.0L Camshaft Position Sensor & Syncronizer


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Hey everyone, new here to this forum after getting my Ranger in August. 2000 v6 3.0 4x4 Manual extended cab

. I bought my truck with 143k on the clock and was in great shape, recently passed inspection and full maintenance records from previous owner. Flushed all fluids, new brakes, new IAC valve, new plugs, and a few other things with my dad who is an engineer and a super mechanic type. I have always done basic things like oil change etc. growing up, but really trying to learn my engine since buying my truck.

She had been running like a champ and a few weeks ago around 149k i noticed this chirping noise that sounded like a belt. Did my homework here and around the internet and found it was the camshaft synchronizer and sensor. here's a video of the noise
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hhwTy9RaCs


I know there a million threads about camshaft syncros, my issue here is since replacing mine



now, I got a new duralast gold camshaft syncro and sensor from autozone for $35, and carefully swapped it out making sure to replace the new one in the exact same position as the old one i pulled out. truck started right up, no more noise. but now I am idling around 1300rpm. it will come back down eventually to around 900 when i am fully stopped at a red light, but stays up at 1500 if I am driving and coast in neutral. No check engine light or anything, I took it to a mechanic and the computer didnt give any codes or any indication anything was wrong. Went out of town this weekend and put 450 miles on it since changing the part, mechanic said this was ok and high idle would just cost me a little gas.

But now I'm back in town and want to get this sorted out and get my idle back down to the cool 900rpm she used to purr at. Is my timing off? Do i need to redo my camshaft sync positioning at TDC?
You have a vacuum leak and also got the wrong brand cam sync.
 


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My cam sync was in 180 degrees out and never threw a code and ran well.
 

cbxer55

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If the primary cause of failure is the bushing on the camshaft sensor wearing out and causing wobble, would periodic lubrication of this sensor help? I noticed that you can simply take off the plastic cap, put a teaspoon of motor oil inside, and the motor oil will seep inside through the bushing and the gear.

I checked my sensor for the first time @ 150,000 kms last year and it looked like new. I've been lubricating the sensor periodically since then (usually on every oil change) so hoping this will keep it in good condition for years to come.
I've been doing that to mine quite a bit more frequently than every oil change. Don't know if it will make a difference or not. As far as it crashing and burning, when it does, it's off to the junkyard with it. I've had it for 17 years, been paid off since 2004. When/if the cam sensor blows up, I'll just call a tow service and have the truck hauled off once and for all. It's been a big PITA for most of the years I've owned, so good riddance to it when it blows up.
 
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Well, my 3.slow has never ran as good as it does now and my mechanic wants me to drop it off this morning to get the cam sync in correctly. I think the code is 1336. He said the cam sync is in just a tad off and timing is retarded slightly. I hope it runs as good as it does now when the cam sync is in correctly !
 

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I picked up a '99 recently and it's throwing a 1309 code so it sounded like the cam synchronizer was previously installed incorrectly. I grabbed a new motorcraft unit and a CPS and attempted the install the other day. Unfortunately it's still throwing the same code, so I need to revisit the process.

1) Is the crank position indicator a separate nub pointer behind the tone ring, and not the crank position sensor itself? I used the position sensor initially, but some searching made it sound like there is actually another reference point to align with the main pulley marks.

2) Once I bring it to TDC, I can roughly measure 26* ATDC by turning the crank 2.5 teeth further on the tone ring - is that step correct?

3) Assuming 2 and 3 are done correctly, how critical is the special tool? I'm unclear on whether I can simply eyeball turning the vane slightly counterclockwise before inserting the synchro such that it ends up centered in the opening once the synchro is tightened down - is that sufficient?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Ok im putting a 93 3.0 in a,2000
When i install the cam sensor do i set it at75* which the book says is for 96-97 or do i set it at 38* which is for 98-2008? The 93 had a distibutor, and im swapping it out with a cam sensor. I guess my question is did the cam change somewher in there? Why the difference,and which one do i use?
 

wileyz62

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I keep getting a camshaft sensor code, but i'm not hearing any squeak or anything. And it only seems to happen when i start her on really cold mornings, you think the synchronizer can still be the problem? or is it more electrical?
Hi Nicky,, on those real cold mornings, does it start and stall off and on?
 

98v70dad

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I have a bit of a dilemma. the tech library here shows the plug positioned towards the back of the engine at 75 degs from center. the hanynes manual shows it positioned towards the front of the engine at 75 degs from center. is there a mark on the block or head I can aim at to get the proper 75 degs? as I don't have a protractor and can't seem to locate my speed square ATM. If there isn't a mark there ought to be....
Thanks for any help here.
I have a 3.0L '96 and I replaced the camshaft position sensor and the synchronizer this weekend using the shop manual procedure for a '95. Those instructions have you put the engine at 10 degrees after TDC (ATDC) and point the tool at 30 degrees off of the engine centerline looking backward. The diagram in the tech library shop manual does not match the text. Every shop manual I ever bough for my fords was full of typos and I quit buying them for that reason.

Anyhow, the 10 degrees ATDC and 30 degrees off of the engine center line looking backward worked for me. The check engine light went off immediately and hasn't come back. The truck runs fine. Measured gas mileage coming in to work this morning - 37 miles of freeway was 23+ mpg. There are timing marks on the crank shaft pulley. The center bolt on mine was 13/16. The gear teeth are 10 degrees apart. You can see the timing make from below with a flashlight and a mechanics mirror.

If you're using the plastic tool you can take the fasteners out of the old sensor and use them to fasten down the tool temporarily. That way it won't slip off. If you don't fasten down the tool it slips off easily.

I used a little dosing syringe I had left over from having a cold to inject some engine oil in the lube hole and then spun the shaft around. Then I lubed up the worm gear and the o-ring.

These comments are for a 1996 ford ranger with a 3.0L V6. Other years and other engines are maybe different. What I've posted worked for me. Oh yeah, it was a real pain to accomplish- took me the better part of a day - I'm not a mechanic.
 

ugltrk

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OK... Just did my 97 aerostar,3.0 Would you believe that I bumped the starter, and it landed perfect for the alignment tool to sit in place, removed it and the teeth were a little worn,(176K miles) The reason for replacing was the top bushing was really worn, and after reading all the horror stories about stripped gears, ruined engines, etc I decided to change it out. Much easier on an Aerostar, 20 minutes. As for where the plug should be pointed, I don't think it makes a difference as long as the plug/wire is not in a strain.

Bill
 

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Swapped heads on my 2000 3.0 Here is a pic of the engine at top dead center and how the synchronizer should look installed correctly:



 
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ugltrk

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Hey Ya'll, don't ignore the squeek on startup, let my Daughter in law use the 96 ranger 3.0, heard a squeak that sounded like an idler pulley, went away after about 2-5 secs. pulled the synchronizer and the drive gear was almost ready to strip out.145K miles....whew
 

wileyz62

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I keep getting a camshaft sensor code, but i'm not hearing any squeak or anything. And it only seems to happen when i start her on really cold mornings, you think the synchronizer can still be the problem? or is it more electrical?
Have you replaced the sensor itself?
 

wileyz62

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Hey Ya'll, don't ignore the squeek on startup, let my Daughter in law use the 96 ranger 3.0, heard a squeak that sounded like an idler pulley, went away after about 2-5 secs. pulled the synchronizer and the drive gear was almost ready to strip out.145K miles....whew
Hello,,question. When you line up TDC number one up are you lining up the missing tooth on the ring or the tdc etching?
 

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You have a vacuum leak and also got the wrong brand cam sync.
just seeing this now but happy to report that over 2 years later this has been running just fine. High idle went down on its own shortly after replacing the synchronizer and happy to report no vacuum leaks.
 


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