3.0L Camshaft Position Sensor & Syncronizer


PlumCrazy

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My 99 made it to 229K before the gear stripped and the motor locked up..
 


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J_BEEM

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worn synchronizer gear

Working on keeping a 1996 ranger on the road. Just changed out the original cam synchronizer with 140k miles on the engine.





 

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Good graphic illustration of what was coming.

Ray
 

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Thanks for the post! I'll add this to my regular maintenance checklist.

Just checked my sensor + synchronizer for the first time at 166,000 kms. No play and the gears still look brand new. Truck was owned since new and ran on good quality 5W20 synthetics.

It seems the cause of this problem are the bushings failing. I wonder if a solution would be to periodically lubricate the synchronizer? Don't even need to pull the assembly out. Maybe every 10,000 kms, pop open the cap and add a few drops of oil in there?

Also, this is such a simple part, is it necessary to buy the OEM part when replacing? Cardone also has a remanufactured version.
 
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ratdude747

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Thanks for the post! I'll add this to my regular maintenance checklist.

Just checked my sensor + synchronizer for the first time at 166,000 kms. No play and the gears still look brand new. Truck was owned since new and ran on good quality 5W20 synthetics.

It seems the cause of this problem are the bushings failing. I wonder if a solution would be to periodically lubricate the synchronizer? Don't even need to pull the assembly out. Maybe every 10,000 kms, pop open the cap and add a few drops of oil in there?

Also, this is such a simple part, is it necessary to buy the OEM part when replacing? Cardone also has a remanufactured version.
I've always heard to buy new, or else you'll be replacing it again in another 50,000 miles (not sure how many kM's that is).
 

variable70

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One thing to add

If you over tighten the Cam sensor on top of the syncro that magnet piece in the sensor will bust off once the engine is started.
 

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If the primary cause of failure is the bushing on the camshaft sensor wearing out and causing wobble, would periodic lubrication of this sensor help? I noticed that you can simply take off the plastic cap, put a teaspoon of motor oil inside, and the motor oil will seep inside through the bushing and the gear.

I checked my sensor for the first time @ 150,000 kms last year and it looked like new. I've been lubricating the sensor periodically since then (usually on every oil change) so hoping this will keep it in good condition for years to come.
 

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Hey everyone, new here to this forum after getting my Ranger in August. 2000 v6 3.0 4x4 Manual extended cab

. I bought my truck with 143k on the clock and was in great shape, recently passed inspection and full maintenance records from previous owner. Flushed all fluids, new brakes, new IAC valve, new plugs, and a few other things with my dad who is an engineer and a super mechanic type. I have always done basic things like oil change etc. growing up, but really trying to learn my engine since buying my truck.

She had been running like a champ and a few weeks ago around 149k i noticed this chirping noise that sounded like a belt. Did my homework here and around the internet and found it was the camshaft synchronizer and sensor. here's a video of the noise
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hhwTy9RaCs


I know there a million threads about camshaft syncros, my issue here is since replacing mine



now, I got a new duralast gold camshaft syncro and sensor from autozone for $35, and carefully swapped it out making sure to replace the new one in the exact same position as the old one i pulled out. truck started right up, no more noise. but now I am idling around 1300rpm. it will come back down eventually to around 900 when i am fully stopped at a red light, but stays up at 1500 if I am driving and coast in neutral. No check engine light or anything, I took it to a mechanic and the computer didnt give any codes or any indication anything was wrong. Went out of town this weekend and put 450 miles on it since changing the part, mechanic said this was ok and high idle would just cost me a little gas.

But now I'm back in town and want to get this sorted out and get my idle back down to the cool 900rpm she used to purr at. Is my timing off? Do i need to redo my camshaft sync positioning at TDC?
 

fithers

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old one


new one


didnt get the camera angles exactly right in the before and after but im 99% sure i put it back in in the same position
 
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fithers

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also whoah those images are gigantic im sorry
 

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sorry for the huge images, should be better now
 

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bringing this over to the new page
old one


new one


didnt get the camera angles exactly right in the before and after but im 99% sure i put it back in in the same position
 

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talked to my dad last night and he mentioned my new high idle could be a vacuum leak from knocking something loose while working on the camshaft back there. gonna try the starter fluid trick to find it today.
 

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Thanks for the post! I'll add this to my regular maintenance checklist.

Just checked my sensor + synchronizer for the first time at 166,000 kms. No play and the gears still look brand new. Truck was owned since new and ran on good quality 5W20 synthetics.

It seems the cause of this problem are the bushings failing. I wonder if a solution would be to periodically lubricate the synchronizer? Don't even need to pull the assembly out. Maybe every 10,000 kms, pop open the cap and add a few drops of oil in there?

Also, this is such a simple part, is it necessary to buy the OEM part when replacing? Cardone also has a remanufactured version.
This is a "Motorcraft Only" lesson a lot of sad 3.0 owners have learned the hard way.
 


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