1994 manual transfer case swap

[Tristanranger]

Hey guys just bought a 94 ranger with a manual transfer case swap, it still has the automatic hubs it will go into low but the hubs aren’t locking in 4 high or 4 low do I still have to click the button?

 

[scotts90ranger]

The auto hubs are standalone and engage when the front axle shafts move faster than the tires assuming everything is working right... For them to lock in you would have to engage the transfer case then drive to the point where the rear slips which would make the front axle move faster than the tires, it takes about 1/4 turn of the axle shafts per corner to engage the cams for the hubs.

 

[Josh B]

It should engage when the dash light comes on

 

[ericbphoto]

It should engage when the dash light comes on

Dash light has nothing to do with hubs locking. There are no wires to those hubs. The dash lights are activated by switches in the transfer case and indicate transfer case function only. And I’m not sure the manual transfer cases even have switches to show what range you’re in. You usually just look down at the shifter on the floor.

 

[rubydist]

After all these years, the auto locking hubs are going to be unreliable. Your best bet is to purchase a set of manual locking hubs and install those. Then, when you lock them in you know you have 4wd.

 

[Tristanranger]

After all these years, the auto locking hubs are going to be unreliable. Your best bet is to purchase a set of manual locking hubs and install those. Then, when you lock them in you know you have 4wd.

What is it I’ve read about the spindle nut being different if you change do I have to get a different one or does it come with the kit?

 

[scotts90ranger]

The wheel bearing lock nuts are different between the two but there's a kit available, easiest is finding a '90-97 Ranger or '91-94 Explorer in the junkyard with manual hubs and grabbing the hubs and lock nuts, you'll need a "dana 44 socket" to get them off/on plus then you'll get real Warn hubs most likely...

Eric, there are two switches on the manual cases the 4x4 light comes on in high range and low range and the low comes on in low range only, I don't think my '90 has the bulb for the low range but that's pretty obvious and I don't normally look at the lights...

 

[Josh B]

It is the control module that engages the front drive shaft, of course as it begins to turn, which engages the front hubs.
It also turns the light on indicating which mode it is in :/

 

[ericbphoto]

The wheel bearing lock nuts are different between the two but there's a kit available, easiest is finding a '90-97 Ranger or '91-94 Explorer in the junkyard with manual hubs and grabbing the hubs and lock nuts, you'll need a "dana 44 socket" to get them off/on plus then you'll get real Warn hubs most likely...

Eric, there are two switches on the manual cases the 4x4 light comes on in high range and low range and the low comes on in low range only, I don't think my '90 has the bulb for the low range but that's pretty obvious and I don't normally look at the lights...

I couldn’t remember for sure if the manual cases triggered the dash lights. But they definitely don’t have anything to do with the hubs.

 

[Josh B]

They do it all Eric
They don't do anything intil the operator pushes the button which sets the whole operation into motion, which is only completed when the front shaft engages the front hubs.

You can look at one freshly raised on both sides, and hand turn the shaft between the TC and the front differential and watch it reach into the front diff and engage the front drive shafts which then reach out to engage the front hubs and the wheels begin to turn

 

[ericbphoto]

You can look at one freshly raised on both sides, and hand turn the shaft between the TC and the front differential and watch it reach into the front diff and engage the front drive shafts which then reach out to engage the front hubs and the wheels begin to turn

It is SUPPOSED to do all that. If everything is in perfect working order, it does. But there is no switch in the hubs to provide feedback that they are engaged. You can remove the wheels, remove the hubs, even remove the spindles and axle shafts. Then get in the truck and engage 4-hi or 4-lo and the dash lights will come on, while the hubs are sitting on your workbench. The dash lights only indicate the status of the transfer case. The automatic hubs, especially the vacuum operated ones have a reputation for not working properly. The only way you know is whether your front wheels are really pulling or not. That’s why many of us prefer the manual hubs. They are more positive acting and more reliable.

 

[franklin2]

They do it all Eric
They don't do anything intil the operator pushes the button which sets the whole operation into motion, which is only completed when the front shaft engages the front hubs.

You can look at one freshly raised on both sides, and hand turn the shaft between the TC and the front differential and watch it reach into the front diff and engage the front drive shafts which then reach out to engage the front hubs and the wheels begin to turn

I checked the 94 system, it's just like the electric shift I had on my 1986. There is nothing engaging the front driveline except the transfer case and the hubs. The hubs work by themselves. The one thing that always worked on mine was the auto hubs. It's very easy to test them. All you have to do lay on your back up front and grab the front driveshaft. You will be able to turn it about a turn, maybe less, and the hubs will lock. This is with the truck off, sitting still. Once the hubs lock, you can't turn the driveshaft anymore. The only way to unlock them is to make sure the truck is in 2wd, and back the truck up 8 to 10 ft.

If your driveshaft is not locking when you turn it by hand, you have a hub problem. You can most likely peek up front while you are turning the front shaft. If one side is turning and the other is not, the side that is turning is not locking.

 

[Tristanranger]

I checked the 94 system, it's just like the electric shift I had on my 1986. There is nothing engaging the front driveline except the transfer case and the hubs. The hubs work by themselves. The one thing that always worked on mine was the auto hubs. It's very easy to test them. All you have to do lay on your back up front and grab the front driveshaft. You will be able to turn it about a turn, maybe less, and the hubs will lock. This is with the truck off, sitting still. Once the hubs lock, you can't turn the driveshaft anymore. The only way to unlock them is to make sure the truck is in 2wd, and back the truck up 8 to 10 ft.

If your driveshaft is not locking when you turn it by hand, you have a hub problem. You can most likely peek up front while you are turning the front shaft. If one side is turning and the other is not, the side that is turning is not locking.

I did take the hubs off and cleaned them they was packed with grease read that’s not supposed to be, but still wasn’t going into 4x4, when I put them back on one said was really springy and the other not so much, maybe something broke on the not springy side? But where it was an automatic transfer case switched to manual I shouldn’t have to push any dash button just put it in 4 high or low and then driving forwards would lock the hubs in correct?

 

[ericbphoto]

Yes. If it doesn't do that, there is something wrong with the hubs. Try the test mentioned by Franklin2

 

[Tristanranger]

Yes. If it doesn't do that, there is something wrong with the hubs. Try the test mentioned by Franklin2

Ok thanks everyone will do some work tomorrow on it