1987 B2 senors question

[NickMBroncoII1987]

I recently rebuilt the engine (2.9 V6) in my B2. Reground cam. Milled heads, lots of porting and polishing, crank work and balanced.
When I got it started for the first time, the oil light next to the fuel Gauge stayed on. I'm assuming oil pressure low or none at all. (I realized i had used 20w50 oil instead of the normal 5w30 oil as well I also noticed there are 2 sensors in the engine block on driver side, both what look to me could be oil pressure sensors? 1 is above the starter (has 2 prongs looking out, which the wiring harness connector barely fits on) and 1 in front of the motor mount with the old push on style thread 1 wire. Also one sensor in oil pan which I assume is oil level. Any input on what these sensors are?

 

[franklin2]

The one in front of the motor mount is the pressure sensor for the dash gauge. It looks like a metal can with the single push on connector. The one above the starter might be the knock sensor, see what color wires go to it. You are probably right about the other one being a level sensor.

If you take the oil pressure sensor can off in front of the motor mount, you will see it has a very very small hole in the end. It's very easy for a little bit of debris to plug that small hole and block the oil from getting to the sensor.

 

[NickMBroncoII1987]

Thank you sir, I ended up getting a mechanical gauge from oreillys to make sure I had pressure. 55psi cold and about 25psi warm. I also changed oil to 5w20 with zinc additive. Now I can fine tune timing and hopefully it will stay running.
This morning it ran for about 4 mins and died and was hard to start back up.

 

[tw205]

I recently rebuilt the engine (2.9 V6) in my B2. Reground cam. Milled heads, lots of porting and polishing, crank work and balanced.
When I got it started for the first time, the oil light next to the fuel Gauge stayed on. I'm assuming oil pressure low or none at all. (I realized i had used 20w50 oil instead of the normal 5w30 oil as well I also noticed there are 2 sensors in the engine block on driver side, both what look to me could be oil pressure sensors? 1 is above the starter (has 2 prongs looking out, which the wiring harness connector barely fits on) and 1 in front of the motor mount with the old push on style thread 1 wire. Also one sensor in oil pan which I assume is oil level. Any input on what these sensors are?

I believe there are two types of sending units. One for gauge and one for light. I don’t know what happens when you have the wrong one but it may be your issue with light staying on. The big can type is for the gauge. Smaller one for the light.
Good luck.

 

[NickMBroncoII1987]

Thank you guys for the quick reply! Fix that issue!

Next question, as Im slowly working the bugs out of this new build.
Pictured is a 2 wire connector, the wire colors look to be a black with white stripe, and what appears to be a green-ish with maybe a yellowish wire. Any idea what I missed, and where this may connect? With the pictures, I take a close up of the wires, then the connector, and I back out to show location

 

[NickMBroncoII1987]

Who can tune these engines? I have a miss in the engine and can't hardly keep it running. Smells very rich in fuel. Where should my timing be?

What plug should I be running? 13.5lb injectors, reground cam, milled heads .035, flowmaster exhaust, ported upper and lower intakes. Can I run a better plug to help burn the fuel off?

 

[NickMBroncoII1987]

When cold the B2 sounds great, nice thumpy little cam. But after it warms up it starts missing and keeps dying, then hard to start or won't restart. Fuel gauge stays around 33-36 psi even when it starts running like crap.

 

[franklin2]

Factory timing setting is unplug the spout connector, and set it to 10 BTDC. The plug the spout back in afterward. That would be a place to start.

If you cam is very lumpy, the stock computer may not like it. Welcome to having a EECIV injection system.

Looks like that might be the coolant temp sensor wiring plug. If that is what that plug is, no wonder it doesn't run very good. The sensor is hidden under the throttle body on the front part of the engine/intake.

 

[NickMBroncoII1987]

My coolant temp gauge still reads the engine temp, but you are correct, I forgot that I replaced a sensor under the throttle body, at the top of thermostat for my electric fan sensor.

It actually runs and sounds great until it warms up, then its like it losing fire, because the fuel pressure remains around 34psi when it does and wont hardly start

 

[franklin2]

On these older systems, you have two temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer. Unlike the newer trucks which have just one.

 

[NickMBroncoII1987]

Well crap, sounds like I need all three.
I also have unhooked the oil pressure gauge to run a mechanical gauge.

I just don't see how these old sensors can make the engine run good for about 3 or 4 mins then just start missing and die...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The first 3 or 4 minutes the truck is running without sensors, just uses preprogrammed values for fuel, temp, and air. After the truck warms up the truck switches to using sensors.

 

[2 bronco 11s]

Looks like the one that goes to the Air charged temp sensor on the right side of the upper intake . You iac is hiding it .

 

[franklin2]

In this diagram, the air charge has a lightgreen/purple wire. The coolant temp sensor has a lightgreen/yellow wire. From his description I thought the coolant temp sensor matched up better.

 

[2 bronco 11s]

Can’t see your picture . Did look at the engine blown up and it appears he has a plug on the act . Looks long enough to go to the temp sensor though . I’ll look at my Ford wiring book and see .