96 Ranger 2.3L Won't Start

[Earl43P]

Did you replace the large cable to the starter?

If not, put the truck in neutral.
Jump the large post on the starter to the small post on the starter (remove the wire on the small post to do this).

It should engage and crank the motor over.
If it doesn't, you have no power at the large starter cable.

 

[Rocker3829]

Did you replace the large cable to the starter?

If not, put the truck in neutral.
Jump the large post on the starter to the small post on the starter (remove the wire on the small post to do this).

It should engage and crank the motor over.
If it doesn't, you have no power at the large starter cable.

Decided not to touch it last night after hitting the tipping point, but I'm back at it and refreshed and trying to get this done now.

I did, and I've just checked it and it is sending 12.5ish volts to the starter at all times.

Modelageek, I hear ya, and I'm continuing to check right now.

Any tips on how to get a good reading on the ignition wire to the starter since you have to try and start the motor to shoot power through it? I have someone who can "start" it for me so that is not an issue.

 

[Rocker3829]

Ok, maybe something here. I have 12.5 volts from the positive cable to the starter, and I have 12.5 volts at the starter relay (I guess this would technically be the starter solenoid switch since the solenoid itself is mounted on the starter?) on one of the posts (the relay is mounted to the fender between the distribution box and battery). I cannot get a reading on the small ignition wire at the starter or at the post on the relay that connects to the ignition wire (when trying to start the motor). Ford had a stock piece that you attach two wires to (the positive cable and ignition I think) that both attach to female spades (it's one unit, I have a picture attached of a similar piece on an F-150). I stripped and ran new 10 gauge wire from this stock piece (so there is about 2 inches of original wire left, 1 outside the piece and one attaching to the female spade inside the plastic). That old wire could be bad, because my connections I have double checked and they are fine.

 

[modelageek]

I am getting a little confused and I am probably pushing it as far as my knowledge base here. but when you try and start it are you getting power on the other side of the fender mounted relay. if you are not then it is prob either the fender mounted relay or I am wondering if the clutch switch could be half bad and not creating a good ground(I think that is how the clutch switch works) if you are getting power to the other post on the fender mounted relay then the problem should be the wire that goes from the fender mounted relay to the starter solenoid. this is assuming you have either tested the starter and solenoid or it is new I forget which.

 

[Rocker3829]

I am getting a little confused and I am probably pushing it as far as my knowledge base here. but when you try and start it are you getting power on the other side of the fender mounted relay. if you are not then it is prob either the fender mounted relay or I am wondering if the clutch switch could be half bad and not creating a good ground(I think that is how the clutch switch works) if you are getting power to the other post on the fender mounted relay then the problem should be the wire that goes from the fender mounted relay to the starter solenoid. this is assuming you have either tested the starter and solenoid or it is new I forget which.

I am getting power on one post of the fender mounted relay (I am assuming the "positive" one because it is showing the same amount of volts as the positive battery cable connection on the actual starter). Yes, the starter and solenoid were tested and check out ok.

I'm trying to not confuse y'all but I feel like I'm confusing myself at times, sorry bout that!

 

[modelageek]

Well if you are not getting power to the other post on the fender realy when you try to start it it means the electro magnet is not closing. So either the relay is bad. Or on some cars the clutch/ neutral switvh is wired to the relay. I don't know if that is the case with your truck. Have you tried to jump the 2 big posts on the fender relay. I think the key needs to be on

 

[modelageek]

A few more thoughts. Since this happened after you pulled the tranny. Is possible that there is a ground wire/strap that you did not get back on properly

 

[Rocker3829]

Well if you are not getting power to the other post on the fender realy when you try to start it it means the electro magnet is not closing. So either the relay is bad. Or on some cars the clutch/ neutral switvh is wired to the relay. I don't know if that is the case with your truck. Have you tried to jump the 2 big posts on the fender relay. I think the key needs to be on

I'm only getting power to the one post so it definitely could be the relay. I'm not sure if the clutch/neutral swtich is wired to the relay or not (if someone else knows about this because I have no idea). I have tried to jump the 2 big posts on the fender relay to no avail (I get the same clicking sound when I simply put the truck in the "on" position, when it is in the "on" position and jump the relay with a screwdriver, and when I simply try and start the truck).

I doubled checked the tranny and I did find a sensor off (blue covering, at the back the transmission and I can't find the housing for it back there). I don't think it is a ground though (I will check the 8 bolts that connect the tranny to the motor and tighten them again if need be here in a few minutes).

 

[Rocker3829]

Just finshed putting new spades and bolts for 2 of the 3 grounds for the negative battery cable (the fender and body across from battery but not the motor) and still doing the same thing. Probably gonna replace the starter relay next.

 

[Rocker3829]

Just replaced the relay and the truck is still giving me that same dam* clicking sound. I don't know what in the h e double hockey stick to attack next.

 

[modelageek]

The clicking is coming from the solenoid on the starter right? Have you tested the wire on the starter that completes the circuit for the solenoid on the starter I think you need to test it with a multimeter while you try to start it. When you try and start it is there power on both big posts on the fender relay in other words is the fender relay closing so power goes to the other post

 

[Rocker3829]

Just wanted to mention I put a new relay as well as cleaning all of the grounds I could find (found a couple more, amazing what happens when you take a break as well as have some sunlight for the first time in a week to help) and I got her to start up, but I had to the jump the new relay to do it, so here is the question, I believe it is an ignition problem now but not 100% sure. Thanks again to everyone who helped me get this far, happy to have half the battle but still have half to go.

 

[Bryan22]

either the relay is bad, or the ignition switch isn't sending power to the relay. good job. glad you've pretty much got it figured out, many others would've given up by now.

 

[Rocker3829]

either the relay is bad, or the ignition switch isn't sending power to the relay. good job. glad you've pretty much got it figured out, many others would've given up by now.

The ignition switch is most likely the culprit, the new relay actually lets me jump it (the old one did not). You know my luck isn't great when tightening the bolt on the new relay and the post snapped, so I'm off to get another new one, as well as a new ignition switch. Should be good to go after that, thanks to everyone for all the help, I"ll let y'all know when I get this thing 100% done.

 

[Bryan22]

also don't rule anything out. Earl may have been right about it being the clutch switch.