By Josh Lee:
First, take out the spare tire to provide clearance for removing the differential cover.
Next, Jack up the rear of the truck and place securely on jack stands. Don’t forget to chock the front tires!

Next, drain the gear oil out of the differential.

Next, remove the bolt securing the crosspin in place located on the passenger side of the differential carrier.
(hint…rotate the carrier to fit a 1/4″ ratchet between the bolt and the bearing cap)
Note – truck must be in neutral.

Next, slide out the crosspin then rotate the carrier to remove the spider gears.


With the spiders and crosspin removed you can slide in the axle shaft to remove the C-clips that retain the axleshafts.
(hint… if the axle shaft doesn’t slide in far enough for the C-clips to clear the side gears, try loosening the adjusters on the drum brakes. Worn drums will have a lip on the edge of the pad preventing you to slide the hub and axle shaft inward)
After the C-clips are removed, you can slide the axle shafts out about 4 to 6″ and pull out the side gears.
Note, there are thrust washers located behind the side gears. Don’t mix these up, you will need to install them in the sides they came out of.

Grease up the cogs on both couplers and slide the driver side coupler and slide in the axle shaft.
Install the C-clip with the open end pointing down so it won’t fall off.
Now sharply pull on the driver side tire/hub to seat the C-clip.


Now install the passenger side coupler and slide in the axle shaft so it is flush with the coupler. Grease up the cogs on both drivers. Apply grease to the shear pins and install into windows of drivers. Place the small diameter springs into the large diameter springs and fill with grease so they won’t separate. Slide a driver onto the driver side driver, seating the cogs and slide the spacer inside the driver and make sure it seats over the C-clip and the shoulder built into the coupler. The grease will hold it in place. Note, notice the flat spots on the outside of the drivers…they allow you to slide the driver into the carrier.


Now slide the other spacer inside the driver and slide it into the case. sit it to the opposite side and now slide in the passenger side axle shaft. There is a recess in the cogs to slide in the C-clip. Pull tire/hub out sharply to seat C-clip again. Line up cogs on passenger side coupler and driver. Use a screwdriver to seat the spacer onto the C-clip. Now you can line up the drivers so the cross-pin holes match and start sliding the shear pins to the opposite driver using a small screwdriver in the windows.

Next install the springs into the windows to secure the pins in place. Make sure the springs are seated all the way back in the window. The installation manual recommended using a small screwdriver to compress the spring, but I had no problem with my fingers then using a screwdriver to seat the spring properly.

Now rotate the axle shaft so the bolt hole for the cross-pin is facing you and install the cross-pin and retaining bolt.

Your Lock-Right is now installed, and you are ready to replace differential cover.
Clean the old gasket off and fill with gear oil. No limited slip friction modifier needed.

Happy wheeling!
Don’t forget that a locker can get you into a lot more trouble than an open differential so don’t be careless.
About The Author
Jim Oaks is the founder of The Ranger Station, one of the longest-running Ford Ranger enthusiast communities on the web. He has spent over three decades owning, modifying, repairing, and driving Ford Rangers on the street, trail, and cross-country routes.
Since launching TheRangerStation.com in 1999, Jim has documented thousands of real-world Ranger builds, technical repairs, drivetrain swaps, suspension modifications, and off-road tests contributed by owners worldwide. His work has been referenced by enthusiasts, mechanics, and off-road builders looking for practical, experience-based information rather than theoretical advice.
Jim’s hands-on experience includes long-distance overland travel, trail use, drivetrain and axle upgrades, suspension tuning, and platform comparisons across multiple Ranger generations. The content published on The Ranger Station is grounded in first-hand experience and community-verified data, not marketing claims or generic specifications.