16 INCH/lbs, that probably explains why you're burning up bearings. Hand tight with the socket is close to 16in/lbs.
but in the tech library, it said that that 16lbs wont cut it for bigger tires. thats factory setting
16 INCH/lbs, that probably explains why you're burning up bearings. Hand tight with the socket is close to 16in/lbs.
The inner nut is always 16in/lbs, the outer nut needs be torqued over the 150ft/lb spec usually. I use about 200ft/lbs, you'll want 250.possibly.
but in the tech library, it said that that 16lbs wont cut it for bigger tires. thats factory setting
It's alive!!! I followed your guys' recommendations. Hand tighten the inner nut while spinning rotor and torque outter to 250. Rotor spins more freely than previous times. Hopefully this prolongs bearing life. Will double check in one week. Thank you all for quick replies and all the advice. Woulda scrapped everything an started over with brand new parts if I did it my way lolYa, he's just using it as a 'repair' for the tit on the washer. I had to weld up brand new ones outta the box on my superwinch hubs... the tit ate the threads on the very first install so I welded it up and ground it to damn near a press fit and never had an issue afterwards.
need to use a spanner on the inner nut to keep it from turning with the lock ring and busting the nipple off....once the spindle gets a bit worn its the only way to keep from busting the tit off the inner nut..
As long as the lock ring key isn't worn, there no need for the nipple on the inner nut IMO, if the lock right doesn't spin, the inner can't.need to use a spanner on the inner nut to keep it from turning with the lock ring and busting the nipple off....once the spindle gets a bit worn its the only way to keep from busting the tit off the inner nut..