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wheel bearing welded itself to spindle


16 INCH/lbs, that probably explains why you're burning up bearings. Hand tight with the socket is close to 16in/lbs.

:icon_rofl::icon_rofl:possibly.

but in the tech library, it said that that 16lbs wont cut it for bigger tires. thats factory setting
 
:icon_rofl::icon_rofl:possibly.

but in the tech library, it said that that 16lbs wont cut it for bigger tires. thats factory setting
The inner nut is always 16in/lbs, the outer nut needs be torqued over the 150ft/lb spec usually. I use about 200ft/lbs, you'll want 250.
 
Grab the socket (cleaned of all grease and crap) and tighten the inner nut as much as you can with one hand... Then spin the outter nut on F'n tight.
 
:yahoo: It's alive!!! I followed your guys' recommendations. Hand tighten the inner nut while spinning rotor and torque outter to 250. Rotor spins more freely than previous times. Hopefully this prolongs bearing life. Will double check in one week. Thank you all for quick replies and all the advice. Woulda scrapped everything an started over with brand new parts if I did it my way lol
 
I dont understand why you needed that allen key in there? Did the nipple break off the washer?...I would get a new washer if I were you. That allen wrench wont do diddly squat. That washer'll just spin
 
Ya, he's just using it as a 'repair' for the tit on the washer. I had to weld up brand new ones outta the box on my superwinch hubs... the tit ate the threads on the very first install so I welded it up and ground it to damn near a press fit and never had an issue afterwards.
 
Listen to Gruss if you have no other resources. I first had this happen on a 73 Super beetle, and then about five years ago on old my Ranger. I drove the ten blocks home as slow as possible and it STILL welded on. HOWEVER, in both instances, under my dad's guidance, we cut through with a grinder, snapped it off and also smoothed the axle as best we could and never had another issue (yes, lucky as it was probably out-of-round). As a matter of fact, my Dad had to weld extra material on the Beetle axle as I had driven it a LONG way, not realizing what could happen, so it was completely %^$&^&*^ mangled- THEN he smoothed it and it was still fine for years after and until I sold it. Good luck, it will work in a pinch with a soft touch ( and regular check and greases)!
 
Ya, he's just using it as a 'repair' for the tit on the washer. I had to weld up brand new ones outta the box on my superwinch hubs... the tit ate the threads on the very first install so I welded it up and ground it to damn near a press fit and never had an issue afterwards.

exactly. that tit thats sticks out isnt very long and not very strong either. after about 100lbs of torque, itll round out and slip over the threads. you know what im talking about. ive made 4 different wedges and none seem to hold up like the allen wrench did. i can put 250 lbs and it wont budge.
 
Wow, I've never had a problem with the one's I got from broncograveyard...and I torque mine to 250
 
need to use a spanner on the inner nut to keep it from turning with the lock ring and busting the nipple off....once the spindle gets a bit worn its the only way to keep from busting the tit off the inner nut..
 
need to use a spanner on the inner nut to keep it from turning with the lock ring and busting the nipple off....once the spindle gets a bit worn its the only way to keep from busting the tit off the inner nut..

I'd rep you but I can't yet.

Kudos on the spanner idea....I'ma gonna go make one.
 
need to use a spanner on the inner nut to keep it from turning with the lock ring and busting the nipple off....once the spindle gets a bit worn its the only way to keep from busting the tit off the inner nut..
As long as the lock ring key isn't worn, there no need for the nipple on the inner nut IMO, if the lock right doesn't spin, the inner can't.
 
i rarely have problems with the nut backing off nipple or no nipple....i dont even need a lockring once the threads are worn to a certain point. spanner backup eliminates the backoff issue ime.

issues i had was from running too much tire for the brakes...overheating the whole assembly in city conditions....456 gears dictated tire circumference though. not so easy to change gears.


most guys here wont have any issues ...or seem to have few issues due to actual use over time.


for example...many years i put more miles on in 6 months the junkie does in 5 years...way overloaded. sure, we all realize most guys this wont apply too.

but note many 4x4 rangers in my area at the time were ladder rack equipped as well, and hauling trailers etc doing construction related work....so use will define experience. lots of guys pulled their stangs and camaros to the track with 4.0 rangers...i always got a kick out of that.


in the right conditions my rotors would warp and the wheel studs would come loose. that sucks. i only put big tires on steel wheels that made it easy to snap the studs off specifically because of that issue.

with 33 in tires the d35 is as bombproof as most d44's...and the main reason the only logical upgrade i see over it with 44 spindles is a dana 60. with light 35 in tires they fill the job just peachy as well.


my beef with the d35 was getting good usable local parts was starting to become less then instant and extraordinarily cheap....








due to my improper use of the ranger, it kept a huge increase in maintenance of the front bearings...time consuming to a point...but it was very harsh on the spindle threads and lock ring....i had piles of them from trips to the junkyard.....when maintaining the pile got difficult....and the 8.8 started failing regularly....i went to bigger axles.

had i spent the time to heavily truss the 8.8 and put floater hubs on it and 44 front spindles with beefed beams i would have likely been fine till i went to 42 inch tires.

i just assume most people keep the inner from turning with a spanner type cam wrench etc....

the other easy solve is the ratchet nuts from the 150's or modded auto nuts.
 

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