2WD wheel bearing issues

[Roert42]

I've had issues with the wheel bearing on the front wheels since I got the truck.

First, every year when I sent it to inspection they would put out the wheel bearings were a little loose. So they would repack them, retorque the spindle nut, and it would be fine again.

I paid a shop to do the front brakes and rotors about three years ago, and did not get any complaints about the wheel bearings at inspections. So I assumed when the bearings got replaced during the brake job all was well. Got replaced with Timken Bearings.

Turns out I was wrong. I was hearing some brake noise when turning right. I got a set of brake pads and a set of wheel bearings for one side. Passenger side outer bearing was pretty bad, inside seemed fine, replaced it with an SKF bearing. Driver side was also a bit loose, repacked it and retorqued the spindle nut. All the play is gone.


The spindle nut torque is very low, final torque is only 24 in/lbs. The bearings also seem fairly small, but there is two of them.


Seems like I would need to retorque the spindle nuts every 6 months just to avoid issues. This also would explain why my front tires have always worn poorly. Could also be why the WSS seems to drop pulses occasionally when I hit a bump causing the TSC and ABS to fault and the ABS to turn on full time.

What's the deal? Am I just an abusive POS?

Do I actually need to maintain my vehicles instead of just driving them until parts start falling off?

 

[sgtsandman]

Was the spindle nut tightened to a higher torque first while spinning the rotor before backing it off and tightened to the lower torque?

The higher torque is to properly seat the bearings.

I’m guessing the bearing races were set properly into the hub when they were installed.

If so, what does the spindle look like? There could an issue with it and thus why you keep having issues.

 

[Roert42]

Every time I’ve done, I set it to 18ft/lbs, spin the rotor to seat the bearing, then repeat until the nut doesn’t more anymore when torquing to 18ft/lbs. then back off the nut and torque to 24in/lbs.

I couldn’t feel anywhere on the spindle that was worn. I did notice on the bottom of the spindle it wasn’t as polished as the top. I assume from the bearing race spinning on the spindle, but not any measurable wear.

I didn’t put a mic on it, but normally you can feel a ridge where the bearing spun.

 

[sgtsandman]

While I’m no expert, my understanding is if the bearing(s) spun, the spindle needs replaced.

 

[don4331]

If the damage due to bearing spinning isn't too bad, you may go around with a center punch and dimple the shaft so the bearing will no longer spin on the shaft. Delicate trade off between still smooth enough that the bearing will seat vs bearing spinning.

Replacing the knuckle is the shop way to do it - do it right because you can't afford to do it twice.

@Roert42 I assume you are installing washer, nut, metal retaining cap and cotter pin.

And the metal retaining cap is still in good enough shape that it won't allow the nut to spin.​

 

[Roert42]

washer, nut, metal retaining cap and cotter pin are all there. I also thought maybe the cap was messed up somehow, but the nut is not able to to spin feely.

Only thing I can think of. How tight is the nut supposed to fit?

The nut can't spin under the cap, but the cap isn't a press fit or anything.

 

[2011Supercab]

Are you running stock Ranger Wheels and no spacers?

 

[Roert42]

Yes, stock 15" steel wheels with stock tire size, street tires. No spacers.

 

[Curious Hound]

As long as the nut stays in place and keeps the nut from spinning, that’s all good.

personally, I run the torque up a bit higher than you are when setting the bearing races. Then back it off and come back to 17 in-lbs.(theoretically). I actually hit closer to 20in-lbs because I’m running gigantic 35” tires that put extra forces on those bearings and mine is 4x4.

if you think your nut becomes loose after driving it a bit, I would think you’re not getting the bearing racks set in position properly during the first part of the procedure. Otherwise, something is wrong with the spindle. I would not go any higher than 24in-lbs on the final torque. You’ll ruin bearings from being too tight.

 

[pjtoledo]

2005 specs, tighten to 21 lbft, loosen 1/2 turn, then 17in-lbs while turning the rotor.
I'm real picky about setting the cotter pin to put pressure on the castle/keeper. any play there can allow the nut to back off enough to affect preload.

excessive wear on the bottom of the stub will let the hub move no matter how tight the bearings are.