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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


You're welcome. Those Summit and Yukon decals were damn hard to make.
I thought you were going to complain about the TransGo one :icon_rofl:

In all seriousness though, thank you.

For those not able to pick out the new ones, it’s the two frosted/etched looking ones. Buy American! The job you save may be your own. And the other is the LBF Customs. Of course, I got the two TRS stickers awhile back.
 
Ooh yeah... I keep forgetting I have a pair of TRS stickers to put on the bronco. Gonna need another couple once the actual ranger is going again 👍🏻
 
I made an attempt to quiet the RFI and EMI the 2011 generates through the radios in the truck. The power line to the fused junction block got a filter. The hood and the front and rear doors got bonded to the cab body. The bed got bonded to the frame on all four corners and bonded to the cab. And the exhaust got bonded to the frame before the catalytic converters, after the catalytic converters, and after the muffler. All with tinned 1" X 10" braided wire straps. If that doesn't work, other than bonding the bumpers and front fenders to the frame, the only thing left is to install a filter on the alternator

The fuel pump power lines already has a filter on it. The noise from the fuel pump was absolutely horrible on the reception side. I don't know if that noise was transmitting through the radios but I addressed that one right after installing the CB. After that, I was only getting a little bit of ignition noise. The bonding of the exhaust is supposed to address the ignition noise as a primary source. Any other bolted on horizontal panel is supposed to be a secondary source, thus why the hood got bonded with two straps.

Hopefully all that work, works. Fixing the problem is getting expensive, real expensive.
 
I made an attempt to quiet the RFI and EMI the 2011 generates through the radios in the truck. The power line to the fused junction block got a filter. The hood and the front and rear doors got bonded to the cab body. The bed got bonded to the frame on all four corners and bonded to the cab. And the exhaust got bonded to the frame before the catalytic converters, after the catalytic converters, and after the muffler. All with tinned 1" X 10" braided wire straps. If that doesn't work, other than bonding the bumpers and front fenders to the frame, the only thing left is to install a filter on the alternator

The fuel pump power lines already has a filter on it. The noise from the fuel pump was absolutely horrible on the reception side. I don't know if that noise was transmitting through the radios but I addressed that one right after installing the CB. After that, I was only getting a little bit of ignition noise. The bonding of the exhaust is supposed to address the ignition noise as a primary source. Any other bolted on horizontal panel is supposed to be a secondary source, thus why the hood got bonded with two straps.

Hopefully all that work, works. Fixing the problem is getting expensive, real expensive.
Go diesel. No more ignition.
 
I drove it to the lake today. Will get some pictures soon.

This week during and between multiple dr appointments this week I focused on my ranger. Have worked on tracking down 2 issues for a bit, resolved both.

One was a loud whirlpool sound from the fan at cold starts, was like that when I purchased the ranger. Found it had a heavy duty fan clutch on it someone installed long ago. I had an extra standard ford nos fan clutch in my parts from my 94 3.0. Installed it and problem solved, and actually it runs and idles much better.

Two was a rattle sound in the back of the engine. Narrowed it to a cheap aftermarket pcv valve. I replaced it with a motorcraft part and changed the grommet also..that grommet was nasty. Changing the pcv valve and grommet it really made a difference in how it idles. Never had that issue with my 94 3.0 as I always used motorcraft parts on that truck. Cheap aftermarket parts are absolutely junk.

Also put on the correct size idler pulley and a motorcraft radiator cap.
 
Go diesel. No more ignition.

So you got all the parts of your truck around a campfire and sang Kumbaya? And then you gave out commemorative belts?

Why not just try rubber wires to the radios?
 
Update on the Road Ranger tuneup. I ran the tank down to 8 gallons, and I put 8 ounces of “Cataclean” in the tank. The cute little brunette is about 35 miles away, and I ran it up there and back one or two gears lower than I usually drive, per the instructions. The instructions want you to get it hot and keep the engine at a higher RPM to create maximum flow through the catalytic converter. Too early to see if that was an issue or help.

By accident, but then I duplicated it, a couple times I was driving with the gas pedal right at the point where it’s not accelerating, but it’s not decelerating, just feeding gas for as fast as the truck was going. Although there wasn’t a significant change in power, I did have the sense that one cylinder may be coming in for a little while and then going out for a little while. I already have all new plugs and wires.

With all the things I’ve tried and the advice I’ve received from TRS, I finally came around to a dreaded thought: fuel injectors.

IMG_2179.jpeg


I had that reaction because every time I ever fooled with fuel injectors on what I used to drive, it always started in high three $$$ digits. I had an equally positive reaction when I looked online and realized I could buy a set of six for $35. Ordered. Woo hoo!!

IMG_5080.png


Question: is checking the injectors as simple as connecting and disconnecting the electrical on them one by one to see if it makes a difference in the engine, like you pull spark plug wires? I’ve had to pay to fix them before, but I never diagnosed them.

So here’s the current plan. I’m going to fiddle with the fuel injection wiring and see if that makes any difference, if maybe I have a bad connection somewhere.

The compression test kit came in, so I’m going to try that.


IMG_5079.png


If that doesn’t reveal anything, I’m going to put the injectors in. Is there any way to test if they’re good so I can save the good ones as spare parts?

If that doesn’t get the results, I’m going to temporarily cut out my cat and see if I have just fouled that.

I don’t mind the extra work considering the mileage on this thing (320) and that I’d like to keep it for a long time. It’s a hoot and I get a lot of attention every time I drive it.

I also bought a used Santana CD to ease the process

IMG_5081.png


If anybody has any wisdom/comments on a cylinder going in and out (or anything else), please comment.
 
That injector ad says $35/ea. Sure you’re not going to get just one injector?

Plenty of y-tube videos about how to test/clean injectors if you look. Simple benchtop procedures.
 
That injector ad says $35/ea. Sure you’re not going to get just one injector?

Plenty of y-tube videos about how to test/clean injectors if you look. Simple benchtop procedures.
This. I've seen plenty of these games on sites, even on Amazon. Don't be surprised if you actually get just one injector.
 
One was a loud whirlpool sound from the fan at cold starts, was like that when I purchased the ranger. Found it had a heavy duty fan clutch on it someone installed long ago. I had an extra standard ford nos fan clutch in my parts from my 94 3.0. Installed it and problem solved, and actually it runs and idles much better.
Last year I installed a new fan clutch on mine (4.0 SOHC) when I installed the new all-aluminum radiator, and got the same whirlpool sound. Many heavy trucks make the same sound on first start and when moving from a stop. The clutch is supposed to loosen and stop making the noise with time, but after a few weeks I got tired of the noise, which did not change. So the original fan clutch went back in, which took care of the whirlpool.
 
Spent some free time during the week working on the bed of my 2003 regular cab.

What it looked like when I got it:
1000000961.jpg


After I prepped it and put a coat of primer:
1000000962.jpg


Finally finished with the Herculiner Pro DIY spray kit:
1000000966.jpg


It turned out really well. Looks like I paid for it. I guess we will see how well it holds up.

The kit was really easy to use. Beware though, the over spray is A LOT so make sure you cover everything up well.
 
That injector ad says $35/ea. Sure you’re not going to get just one injector?

Plenty of y-tube videos about how to test/clean injectors if you look. Simple benchtop procedures.

& @ekrampitzjr

I’m not an eBay virgin, I read the ad a bunch of times. The cars I drove in the past were a little bit more exotic.
 
Are speed holes still popular? LOL
 

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