advice for removing the engine

[Momohenri]

Hi everyone, I have a new engine for my B2, I would like to know if it is possible to remove the engine and gearbox together or do I have to detach the gearbox and remove the engine alone. I don't have a lift so any advice would be appreciated.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Technically it is possible. It’s difficult with the core support and front clip on and the core support is welded in. It’s a lot easier with the core support out of the way. If you’re not pulling the core support, it’s easier to just pull the engine alone. Definitely pull the radiator and all the accessories off the motor, gives you more room to wiggle it out.

 

[Momohenri]

Is it possible to remove (unsolder) the core support without damaging it too much?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes it is. There are two areas that you can potentially drill out spot welds to remove the front clip. At the firewall, or at the core support to inner fenders. I would probably do the core support one using a spot weld cutter drill bit of the correct diameter. Do not drill thru, just remove enough to seperate the 2 pieces.

 

[Curious Hound]

To further expand on what AlwaysFlOoRD said and clear up a misconception.

The core support is not soldered in. It is spot welded. Welding is a process that melts 2 pieces of the same metal to make them become one piece. Soldering involves melting a different softer metal (solder) and using it more like glue without melting the pieces being joined. If you look at the core support where it meets the inner fender pieces, you will see round spots where the 2 pieces were melted together. What you are trying to do with the special drills he showed, is to drill far enough into the “spot” to free the 2 pieces from each other. If you don’t drill through, it is easy to weld the pieces back together during re-assembly. Photo below has arrows pointing to spot welds.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Or, if you dont weld, you can do like I did and use lots of sheet metal screws to put it back together.

 

[bobbywalter]

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-drill-bit-71085.html?hftm_sc=3332&utm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22887601093&campaignid=22887601093&utm_content=185350243844&adsetid=185350243844&product=71085&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22887601093&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4cO2hCDrpEPpElL8qAsRIqM_&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3aLHBhDTARIsAIRij59YZUTtsbOxx3juF9zN0O2tbHCD6QrZNhWpyP9hp5BBLn75wcDdUUsaAlUrEALw_wcB

a critter like that can work too. you will need both depending on where you choose to make it removable..


with limited equipment and low enough experience to seek advice...


separating the trans is a good way to do this. in relatives, potentially much safer and less mess potential.

this way you do not have to pull the front clip and the least likely way to end up with damage to said front clip.

you can leave it under the truck slid back a bit or fully remove it...lots of options and methods depending on condition and what you are actually working with.


for a one time deal, where you just want to get it going it is the fastest and easiest way to go.






i prefer to make the core support removable as a unit with the inner fenders intact, if there was an engine upgrade possible in the future then i would definitely invest the time into making the core support removable. this is required when i do a v8 or non ranger based vehicle engine swap.


i remove it at the cab horns. it is the fastest and least amount of work and drilling and cutting.

with a stock truck it is an absolute pia the first time but definitely worth the effort.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Pics of core support and inner fenders as one unit. Already removed...

IIRC, front bumper, grill, fenders, and doors need to come off to get at the spot welds. I think 27 on each side. To do the core support alone its the same except no doors come off. I dont remember how many spot welds for that.

Bob is correct if this is a one time thing...

 

[bobbywalter]

i did that quite a few times.

then i realized cutting it at the horn was faster easier and stronger after doing some tilt fronts..


my ranger is like that, because it needed separated due to rot.

my engine is slightly larger than the typical 2.9 but cake to work on with a removable clip.

 

[bobbywalter]

the way mine is setup....takes 10 - 20 minutes to pull the clip.


takes longer to drain the fluids.

 

[SenorNoob]

I have always pulled separately. Gonna have to have some kind of lift though. Unless you're strong enough to just pick it up.

I have used many things to accomplish that. 25-ton crane last time. Two trees with a chain 15-20ft up and a chain hoist hanging from that. A wooden frame of 2 posts with a wooden cross beam and a come along. Both of those we lifted the engine then had to push the engineless truck out from under the hoist. Then swap engines, and push the truck back under it.