what carb do i have on my 2.0?

[19bonestock88]

i am curious about what carb i have on my 2.0... i wanna say it's the factory 2bbl carb because it looks nothing like the 1bbl on my friend's 84 ranger with a 2.0... i just don't know what it is...(i know it needs a rebuild)

 

[Mark_88]

Well, if it has a million vacuum lines running from all over the place under the hood and has a round breather with a single wing nut holding it on then it's probably the stock carb...think it's just called an Asian carb since they were made in Japan or somewhere like that...

There have been quite a few people upgrade to various carbs recently from that carb or the 1 bbl (barrel) version with good results...the carb rebuild might cost you $50 to $100 plus...an intake and carb swap might cost about the same or a bit more depending on where you buy it (it could also cost you considerably more if you want to spend the money)...

If it isn't running right it's probably the stock carb though...fought with mine for about two years before I upgraded...

 

[19bonestock88]

the funny thing is off idle, it runs great... other than only getting barely 20 mpg and backfiring immediately after getting off the interstate(if you drive for a couple miles it's fine, or if you downshift all the way through the gears coming down the off ramp it helps tremendously) can you give me a make on the carb?

 

[Mark_88]

Not really a make on the carb...but a google search brought up quite a bit of information that you may want to look at...or whatever search engine you use...

What is it you need? If you want to buy a rebuild kit for your existing carb there should be an ID tag on it. Copy that down and take it to a parts store and they should be able to look up parts for it.

The backfire and other symptoms could mean a number of things...the most common one being a lean fuel condition...or vacuum leak...or exhaust leak...or carb to intake leak (essentially a vacuum leak)...

I found this link that you might want to read...

http://www.ch250.net/techtips/21.htm

 

[19bonestock88]

if the a.i.r. spout on the side of the cat were broken off, then wired in place, might that cause the backfire?

 

[Mark_88]

It might...that is an air feed tube from the air pump...it essentially pushes air into the cat to help the cat burn off excessive fuel...if you have removed the air pump then plug the hole if you can...you could just cap the tube like I did with a copper pipe end (3/4 fits perfectly over that hole) and see if the backfire stops...if not...look at other things like vacuum leaks.

Leaning (meaning not enough gas for proper combustion) out the engine is not good...if the carb is not able to allow enough fuel due to vacuum leaks then it could be causing serious issues with the valves...they are susceptible to burning when there is a lean condition...and not designed to take excessive back pressure (read through the link I posted for more information) and that can be costly to fix.

EDIT: Flaminranger just posted this link in another thread...it shows your carb and some parts available for it...

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K740-CU&Model=RANGER

EDITII: Sorry, but it actually looks like a replacement carb and adapter for your intake...dang!

 

[19bonestock88]

how can i tell if i've done damage to the engine(or is the classic, "it's running, isn't it?" line appropriate)? has me running premium fuel helped it any? would a fast idle indicate a vac leak between carb and intake, the only place i didn't check for a vac leak? it gets faster as it warms up... it idles around 1000 RPM if it were warm but hasn't been running in a few minutes(like if i pull into a gas station or go into a building for a while) and after a while of driving, the idle is at 12-1500 RPM(fast IMO)

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, fast idle can indicate a vacuum leak...or simply advanced timing...you can roll the distributor counterclockwise to lower the idle a bit...but that also changes the way the engine performs.

There is a nut at the base of the distributor near the block (11/16" to be exact) and if you loosen that the distributor can be adjusted..I'd try just a few degrees at a time...like about 5* counterclockwise...

You will hear the difference in the RPM...turn it too far and the engine will stall...but before you do anything take pictures showing the settings you have (if you have a camera) or otherwise mark the location...there is not much in the area to mark this properly...I used the knuckle on the steering column as a reference point but that changes as soon as you alter your body position...if you know what I mean...

You can also check the timing...but on that engine you need to remove the distributor vac line to get a proper reading...it's all in a Haynes manual if you have one...

 

[John Smith]

good morning...

i am curious about what carb i have on my 2.0... i wanna say it's the factory 2bbl carb because it looks nothing like the 1bbl on my friend's 84 ranger with a 2.0... i just don't know what it is...(i know it needs a rebuild)

if you don't mind a quick add to the chat, IIRC, those carbs also had some high idle solenoids (and something else I think ) that interacted with the little "puter" on the passenger fender well. It could be that it's trying to compensate for something else that is disconnected? or? My only experience was to remove it entirley.(the carb) and the "puter".unless you could troubleshoot the problem. I know that carb kit is expensive, and a rebuilt one is very expensive...

 

[19bonestock88]

i don't have the manual, but i have timed the truck before... when you disconnect the vac advance from the distributor, it idles about 800 RPM, which is what the factory calls for, so i would guess the timing is within a degree at worst...it was set at 8 deg BTDC, IIRC, that's what is listed on the core support sticker... do you think it would be leaking between the carb and intake or between intake and head? reason i asked is that i am getting a phenolic intake spacer (custom made) anyway, so that would be fixed before too long, and a carb gasket shouldn't be too much, right?

 

[19bonestock88]

if you don't mind a quick add to the chat, IIRC, those carbs also had some high idle solenoids (and something else I think ) that interacted with the little "puter" on the passenger fender well. It could be that it's trying to compensate for something else that is disconnected? or? My only experience was to remove it entirley.(the carb) and the "puter".unless you could troubleshoot the problem. I know that carb kit is expensive, and a rebuilt one is very expensive...

i see now... i wondered what an idle speed control box was doing in a carb ranger... so you think i should just convert to, like, a Holley 350? or something a little smaller?

 

[flaminranger]

get rid of that carb. it will only bring you headaches.
I did this type of setup but I built my own kit cause they didn't have one at the time but try this.
http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K740-CU&Model=RANGER
Duane

 

[Mark_88]

if you don't mind a quick add to the chat, IIRC, those carbs also had some high idle solenoids (and something else I think ) that interacted with the little "puter" on the passenger fender well. It could be that it's trying to compensate for something else that is disconnected? or? My only experience was to remove it entirley.(the carb) and the "puter".unless you could troubleshoot the problem. I know that carb kit is expensive, and a rebuilt one is very expensive...

That's correct John...they have a feedback system from the Idle Control Module and a plunger type of control on the carb...if it's working and connected and the choke is open...hmmmm...

i don't have the manual, but i have timed the truck before... when you disconnect the vac advance from the distributor, it idles about 800 RPM, which is what the factory calls for, so i would guess the timing is within a degree at worst...it was set at 8 deg BTDC, IIRC, that's what is listed on the core support sticker... do you think it would be leaking between the carb and intake or between intake and head? reason i asked is that i am getting a phenolic intake spacer (custom made) anyway, so that would be fixed before too long, and a carb gasket shouldn't be too much, right?

Could be the spacer on the carb or gasket needs to be replaced...

After reading what John posted I remembered there are two wires going to the carb...one for the choke and one for the idle control...

Take the breather lid off the truck and run it till it warms up...the top of the carb should have a butterfly valve that is your choke...this should be WIDE OPEN when the truck is warmed up...if it isn't then the choke is not working properly...it is an electronic choke and if the wire is not connected or is otherwise not working your engine will run very high idle...it will also backfire and be sluggish because you are not getting enough air (rich fuel),...

If that is not the case...find the other wire and see where it connects...if at all...that is the high idle kick down where it should run...make sure that is connected and if not that could be what is wrong...

Anyway...another question...

Are all the vacuum lines and the air pump still on and connected? Some people take them off to try to correct a problem but this can actually create more issues...

The timing sounds about right at 8*...with vac line disconnected...but you can still try rolling the dizzy if all else fails...

Pics or videos might help also...closeups of the carb and configuration might trigger someone's mind...

 

[Mark_88]

get rid of that carb. it will only bring you headaches.
I did this type of setup but I built my own kit cause they didn't have one at the time but try this.
http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K740-CU&Model=RANGER
Duane

I think I posted that link yesterday...thought it was a replacement carb for the original but it's an upgrade...I would go that route or one of many that are currently being discussed in other threads...

There are about three or four different options for carbs and intakes that work way better than the original 2.0 setup...but the one above is a complete swap kit that will get you a bit more bang and many less headaches...

Mine is a Motorcraft 5200 with the E1ZE intake...when I swapped that on I went from almost daily repairs to pretty much good driving for a year...then I decided to upgrade the motor to the 2.3 after I blew out the bottom end on the 2.0...

Still many used parts available too...but you may need to lay down some $$$$...

 

[19bonestock88]

yeah... the choke hasn't functioned for a while... i noticed it because my backfire got significantly worse and i dropped to about 14-15 mpg... i wired it wide open as a temporary fix until it gets rebuilt or converted properly to manual choke

and yes, my EGR system is present... i have disconnected the smog pump though... would a faulty EGR valve cause this or is it even an issue?

i still plan on getting the spacer though and installing it for a potential power gain...
i wish i could get some pics, but i have misplaced my card reader and can't take pics off my phone and upload them...