urgent only running vehicle

[83RangerBill]

Yup borrowing a buddies I got a strong fuel smell in the brake booster

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[83RangerBill]

And the fuel pump is only 5 years old

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[83RangerBill]

When I checked spark it was regular good blue spark but I will check it all again

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[kimcrwbr1]

The sooner you get it running the less damage to the brake booster, the rubber is not compatible with fuel so hopefully no serious damage has occured. You want to monitor the brakes after you get it running.

 

[83RangerBill]

I will thank for the heads up

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[83RangerBill]

Still fighting this thing. Between money and time I finialy got back to it. I pulled the fuel pressure regulator and its good there is no fuel in the vacuum line and the diaphragm holds vacuum. What I did not know at the time was that the fuse for the pcm was blown. It was fuse #13. It also has a problem to where you have to turn the key to on then put it in neutral before starting it or else it will blow fuse #10. Is there any way to test the pcm without it being in the vehicle and any ideas on where to start looming for the reason the pcm fuse blew?

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[RonD]

Assuming automaic.

Check which wires are being moved under the dash when you shift from Park to Neutral.

There is an NSS(neutral safety switch) switch on the transmission, right above the shift linkage(it also turns on the reverse lights).
This is the path for 12volts from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, when key is turned to START position.
12volts----Key(START)--------------NSS-----------------solenoid

So starter won't turn if trans is not in Park or Neutral.
It it just 1 wire in and 1 wire out so can't see this blowing a fuse in Park but not in Neutral, possible but not likely.

Which makes me think it is a mechanical issue, i.e. wire shorting because linkage is hitting or moving it.

 

[83RangerBill]

I'll check on that. Any thoughts on why the pcm fuse blew

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[83RangerBill]

I'm looking for the diodes for the pcm does any ody know what years a d from what can I pull them

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[70roadrunner]

no pcm=no run!

 

[83RangerBill]

I'm sorry to keep bringing this up. I checked the fuel pressure and it starred off at 20 psi but after a couple key turns it stayed steady at 40 psi. I checked the pressure after an hour and it had not gone down at all. I changed out the fuses for the pcm and I can read it with my code reader. No codes came up I don't get a check engine light when I turn the key. All plugs were wet so I took them out for over an hour and sprayed some starting fluid in when I went to crank it over. Still won't start. I checked again for spark and I still have it. I'm at a total loss on this I really need to get this running because the transmission in the truck is going out not sure how much longer its going to last.

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[Andy D]

JUdging from the fuel pressure and the wet plugs, the issue isn't fuel. The wet plugs may need a better drying out. Try drying them out with a propane torch, better replace them with new. You keep insisting that the spark is good , but wet plugs belie that. I have lost track of the engine you are working on. Is it possible it jumped timing?

 

[83RangerBill]

Its a 5.0 explorer

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[RonD]

Common software for all engine computers is the shut off of injectors to clear flooding.
Turn key on
Push gas pedal to floor, hold it there, this sends >4.5volts to computer from TPS(throttle position sensor), with no crank turning pulses(CKP) this initiates the "no injector pulse" routine.
Keep gas pedal to floor and Crank engine
Engine should not fire, it is getting the spark signal from computer but there should be no injector pluses so no fuel/air mix to ignite.
If it does start to fire then somehow fuel is getting in


Getting spark and getting spark at the right time are two different things.
If you have a timing light check #1 spark against the TDC mark when someone cranks the engine.
Also, as always, recheck firing order twice, been doing wrench work for 30 years and still get it wrong, lol.