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Ultra Power Window Crank Handle Review (part no. 767MX)


Bgunner

Well Known As an Idiot
Supporting Member
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
2,059
City
Western Mass.
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Tire Size
225/70/R15
My credo
If it's not broken Don't Fix It!
Product being reviewed:

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And the following pictures show the reason I changed out the crank handles... Lets chalk it up to an OCD thing aye?

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A simple thing that is quite necessary if you have crank windows is the crank handle and these often wear out crack and break on older vehicles no matter the make or model. After 26 years mine finally wore out and one started to crack and the other's cover would not stay clipped and would rattle when hitting a hard bump so I hit up one of my favorite part stores and ordered a set. RockAuto had these as there only in stock option at the time and for a whopping $2.75 each before tax and shipping I figured I would give them a shot on my 1994 Ranger.

Left is the new Ultra Power and the one on the right is the Ford O.E. handle

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At first glance these two handles appear to be the same but there are differences on back side that in the future may cause an issue of rattling.

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From the above picture you can see where they tried to reduce cost by making the the plastic around the splines that hold the handle on a lot, and I mean a lot, thinner. I can see this a being a easy breaking point if the windows freeze. Also the knob has a split in its attachment point which can causing the knob to pop off later in life, while this is a guess with this exact part number and may never come to pass it is an educated guess since this is not the first crank handle I Have replaced over the years.

From the below pictures you can see that the trim ring that goes between the door panel and handle fits snugly around the factory handle, which will prevent rattles but on the new Ultra power there is quite a room between the exterior of the spline shaft and the ring leaving a lot of room for movement and a possible rattle.

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While installing the first one, drivers side, I notice the handle wouldn't slide down all the way down the splines and required a firm beating with the side of my hand to seat it but the passenger side slipped on just like they are supposed to. Is this a manufacturer tolerance issue? For $2.75 company's will cut corners where they can and are definitely not an O.E. fit. As a note: Ford O.E. uses a Torx T20 as the screw head and because this is a aftermarket part it comes with the more common Phillips head screw. Either will work just fine but I reused the Torx screw because I wanted to try to keep it as factory looking as possible on this job.

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After install all is well but time will tell if my fear of rattling will come to pass or if a frozen window will break the thin spline casing.

No more cracks or covers hanging in the breeze and my OCD-ish obsession with my truck is satisfied... for now.

My opinion on these handles is for the price they are most definitely worth the try but the tolerances could use a little tightening. Having the trim ring being as loose as what it is worries me about rattling, one reason for the handle change for me, but if a rattle doesn't bother you then this is a good buy.



I would have put this in the product review section but there isn't one for interior parts so here it sits.
 
Quote from the review: "Also the knob has a split in its attachment point which can causing the knob to pop off later in life, while this is a guess with this exact part number and may never come to pass it is an educated guess since this is not the first crank handle I Have replaced over the years. "

Well Blow me mechanic ares down because I can see the future....


(With my best southern Draw) Stuff just ain't made the same no more... OF course this is a '94 and much different than say an 84 or 74, But I can see the future... I went from February to the beginning of June before the darned thing popped off. Yes One ear is broken and since I'm one of those " well i changed it because I didn't like the noise it made type of people that hord the old parts" I'm going to reinstall the old driver side on the passenger side till I get a different brand crank and still not have a rattle.


Would I recommend this part? Surely not when all I did was reach over to roll down that window and got 3 cranks max and POP!! its in my hand.
 
lesson learned.
 
lesson learned.
Yes sir the lesson was learned. I'm looking for ford OEM made replacements now that are in good condition.

Cal me crazy but I want to put down my passenger window from teh driver seat and not have the window crank knob end up in my hand with the window only part way down.

Of course I'm curios of what Kid will say when it pops off in her hand. DAAAAD!!! lol
 
I was just ranting on one of my posts about how everything is "chinesium" these days..The guys made me savvy to that term Ima running w/ it lol.....Im having a non-cheapo alternator hunt issue myself...Anyways did you happen to find oem replacement or something decent? looking fwd to pt.3. So far you have saved me $2.75 x2 plus tax, shipping, anticipation and dissapointment.
 
So the other day I ripped off the driver side knob.... I purchased one more with a plan though...

I am still in the hunt for some factory ones just in case. @Shran maybe your willing to part with your parts truck ones. BUT the plan is to run down to the local, and I mean local in my town, hardware store and see if I can get a course thread with a flattened head machine screw to put into the back of the knob with hopes that this will stop the flex of the cut knob holders to reinforce the fore scene trouble spot.
 
Maybe you just need to stop cranking your knob so hard? :unsure:
 
My 77 has metal cranks. Reason #3287 why old stuff is superior
 
My '90 has the original cranks, never had a problem and those windows aren't the smoothest thing on the planet... Who knows on the '97 since I have a '94 door on the drivers side, but it's easy enough I often times grab it between my index finger and middle finger and grab there for a little less wrist twist in a confined area... not much force on the knob that way... Since you're having that much issue, I do have an extra I could offer up if you pay shipping... oddly enough with my disaster of a garage I even know where it is...
 
My 77 has metal cranks. Reason #3287 why old stuff is superior

If you could get late 90's fuel injection in a '70's vehicle I'm with ya, that's the reason I like 90's rigs best, still fairly simple but not stupid complicated, but there's some annoying things mixed in... I purposely went for a '95-97 Ranger for a daily driver...
 
If you could get late 90's fuel injection in a '70's vehicle I'm with ya, that's the reason I like 90's rigs best, still fairly simple but not stupid complicated, but there's some annoying things mixed in... I purposely went for a '95-97 Ranger for a daily driver...
A guy as smart as you could learn how to tune a 2150 2 bbl in about 10 minutes. You wouldnt even tell the difference between that and EFI.
 
Well yeah, I know the plusses and minuses of both, injection is just a preference... heck some of the new stuff is pretty sweet but all the emissions and safety junk on new stuff is ridiculous... and this is coming from a guy that tunes engines for emissions for a living... I like a balance of form and function, and as I get older I like not messing with stuff once it's together and closed loop fuel injection just keeps going unless it sits for years, no float bowls or jets to clean...
 

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