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Ultra cheap offroad race Explorer turned rock crawler


Solid axle swapped square body explorer on swampers is a thing of beauty. Ive always dreamed of building a baja SUV because it looks so badass, but a rock crawling SUV is equally as cool
 
Stock 75-77 Ford ones I think.

There's so many hi steer options for that axle, and you'd be good for full hydro at some point then too. Might help with your pitman arm issues significantly. I can't for the life of me remember how the explorer box is set up
 
Solid axle swapped square body explorer on swampers is a thing of beauty. Ive always dreamed of building a baja SUV because it looks so badass, but a rock crawling SUV is equally as cool

Swampers make anything look good! I still want to race this thing but three of the four series races being 6+ hours away is hard to do with work & kids. I figured I would get more use out of it as a crawler.... and it will be a unique build.

Explorer box is in the same location as a Ranger box, I think for the moment I am going to run what I have and see how it works - maybe upgrade if it sucks, I would love full hydro though. I do have some flat top Chevy knuckles but I think they have the small spindle hole.

I was trying to keep this rig as low as possible, I am really happy with the ride height in the rear but matching that in the front will only give me about 4" of uptravel at the very most before I start running into the steering box, and the driveshaft is already into the exhaust...and it's pretty close to the starter too. I think I might just have to live with it even if I do go full hydro, and it'll just end up being a little taller than I wanted.

Full hydro would allow me to move the axle much further forward though, then a lot of those clearance issues go away.
 
I would 100% go full hydro personally. Much better on the trail, much easier to package. I would love to replace the hydro assist on my jeep, but tires are so expensive and next season I don't think I'll have money for both.
 
Also, I really like the TMR arms because you can upgrade the knuckle as a whole later if you want, or stick with the 3 hole

 
I actually used ORD for my D44. The knuckle doesn't care if its Ford or GM steering...

Those are a great price though.

 
Finally I got some parts in. Some of the threaded tube inserts were on indefinite backorder so I cancelled the order and got the joints elsewhere. I need to cut out some brackets on the plasma table but otherwise I am ready to start building again. Bummer that spring turkey season starts this weekend for my stepson, we are going to Arkansas the week after that and then my turkey season starts after that. I have too many hobbies. I need to just buckle down and build.

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A bit of progress last night. I played with locating the axle a bit more accurately with plumb bobs and then took a bunch more measurements and got the axle end lower link mounts tacked on.

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I think I am going to make this the extent of my uptravel. I may be able to play with the steering linkage and pitman arm a bit and get another inch out of it but overall I am pleased. It looks like the lower links will clear everything at full compression and I should have no problem mounting the upper link on the driver's side, outboard of the frame, without running into clearance problems with the tires or other stuff.

Kind of funny but I think my front driveshaft will work or will at least be very close. I thought it would be far enough off that it wouldn't work at all.

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Minor updates, should have more done this week:

Lower link mounts on the axle need to be moved in about 1/2" per side. I thought I had this dialed but the tires are rubbing pretty hard at full lock. Frame end is good, I am happy with that and am going to get those tacked on.

Steering linkage has been up in the air, I would like to have the tie rod above the steering arms but I knew I would run into clearance problems with the pitman arm, especially if I run heims. My F150 parts truck had a 2wd steering box on it and the pitman arm is almost flat instead of dropping a couple inches. I think that may solve a bunch of problems.

I should have worked on it last weekend since I had all of Saturday and most of Sunday free but instead I went to yard sales and bought a bunch of junk so I burned up a bunch of time monkeying with that instead. I need motivation.

I did order a 5th tire now that I can get them again although at a ludicrous price... $450. I need a spare so I guess it is what it is. These tires used to be about half that and not that many years ago.

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Yeah, there are some great deals on there. I haven't seen them ever sell what I have - which is kind of an oddball size - Q78-15LT, basically a skinny 36" tall tire.

Why did I go with that size? I got a like new one for free about 10 years ago so I figured I would buy three more someday because at that time they were only about $200/tire. I procrastinated until they went up to $330/tire. When I had the money to buy a 5th one, that size was totally out of stock everywhere. 8 of them popped up on eBay recently for $450/tire. Fawk me this hobby is expensive but I need a spare.
 
I relocated the lower link axle mounts and am tentatively happy with where those and the frame brackets landed so those are all tacked on. Using a couple pieces of PVC pipe to simulate fully assembled links was pretty handy.

I started drawing the upper link axle bracket, and then spent a couple hours playing with cardboard for the frame mount. It will be outside the frame near the cab mount so getting it just right was difficult - then it occurred to me that I can just make a little U shaped piece and mount it in single shear with the bolt running all the way through the frame. I think that will be fine, sleeping on it last night made me think that it's still not a stupid idea. More to come soon.

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