Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

The Explorers is a little shorter, the SN95 is almost as short and you can reuse your harmonic balancer (if it is 50oz, if not you are screwed with either option)

I have a write up in the "submit your tech article" section about putting the EX belt drive in my Ranger.

It is fairly involved and can get kinda pricy... but does clear out a lot of room and clean up the engine bay.

One potential refit I might do on mine down the road is go to a 5.0 Explorer radiator. With the bodylift I think I have the depth to keep it from dangling down below the frame rails. The HD 4.0 Explorer one JUST keeps up and I have to watch it with idling.

I have read through your article a couple times, doesn't seem like it would be terribly difficult, just would be worried about getting rapped on the price from the junkyard.

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[dangerranger83]

You can do this swap with having to swap FEADs but you will have to run an electric fan, which I would recommend doing anyways.

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[Twister]

You can do this swap with having to swap FEADs but you will have to run an electric fan, which I would recommend doing anyways.

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With or without?

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[dangerranger83]

My bad. You don't have to change the FEAD but your water pump will be close to the rad. You may have to run a pusher fan (or a series of small ones).

If you want puller fan(s), then just have them out of the way of the water pump.

Only reason my swap looks ugly is because I wasn't worried about looks as much as function. One way or another, what I had was going to work like it or not is what I was thinking.

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[Twister]

My bad. You don't have to change the FEAD but your water pump will be close to the rad. You may have to run a pusher fan (or a series of small ones).

If you want puller fan(s), then just have them out of the way of the water pump.

Only reason my swap looks ugly is because I wasn't worried about looks as much as function. One way or another, what I had was going to work like it or not is what I was thinking.

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That's OK. Well currently, with the radiator in the stock location I physically cannot bolt on the water pump because it will hit the radiator. I am only thinking about changing FEADs because I don't wanna cut any of by radiator support.

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[dangerranger83]

If I remember right, 85_Ranger 4x4 was able to use the longer water pump and a 4.0 rad, just had to use a pusher fan.

Can you get a top view picture of your motor mount into the crossmember? You may have to tuck your rad up into the core support a littlen

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[Twister]

If I remember right, 85_Ranger 4x4 was able to use the longer water pump and a 4.0 rad, just had to use a pusher fan.

Can you get a top view picture of your motor mount into the crossmember? You may have to tuck your rad up into the core support a littlen

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Yeah ill get some when I get home.

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[Twister]

If I remember right, 85_Ranger 4x4 was able to use the longer water pump and a 4.0 rad, just had to use a pusher fan.

Can you get a top view picture of your motor mount into the crossmember? You may have to tuck your rad up into the core support a littlen

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I'm trying to avoid cutting anymore than I have had to.

This is the water pump and the radiator in the stock location. It is fully contacting it .

Here are the mounts. let me know of you can't see what you were looking for.

Driver side, which is hard to get a pic of.

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[dangerranger83]

That last photo shows what I "feared". Switching the motor mounts to opposite sides allows the bolt to be in the most forward position, shown with the red line like what I have and yours is the green line because the bolts are further back. Only reason my setup is more forward is because I was in a rush to get things done but if mine were slotted where yours are then it would be in a better spot.

I would take the engine out and swap them to put the engine back further.

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[Twister]

That last photo shows what I "feared". Switching the motor mounts to opposite sides allows the bolt to be in the most forward position, shown with the red line like what I have and yours is the green line because the bolts are further back. Only reason my setup is more forward is because I was in a rush to get things done but if mine were slotted where yours are then it would be in a better spot.

I would take the engine out and swap them to put the engine back further.

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I would but the engine would only go back about another inch.

Just went and measures the clearenxe between the cylinder head and the firewall. There is only about 3/4 of an inch of space. So the engine is about as far back as physically possible.

So redoing it would almost be pointless. Thanks for the advice though. It looks like getting the explorer setup and possibly pushing the radiator under the support o should have ample room

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[dangerranger83]

Damn that sucks.

I would try to push the rad forward or at least see what is needed to be removed from the core support to do so.

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[Twister]

Bit the bullet on the explorer FEAD. Picked up both the major brackets today. Just need the alt, timing cover, water pump and harmonic balance.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Check KC Craigslist, there's a mustang place in Lawrence KS. They're have a bunch of 5.0 Sploders that they are parting out.

Never dealt with them, but their stuff is constantly popping up in my searchs, and their prices seem reasonable.

 

[Twister]

Check KC Craigslist, there's a mustang place in Lawrence KS. They're have a bunch of 5.0 Sploders that they are parting out.

Never dealt with them, but their stuff is constantly popping up in my searchs, and their prices seem reasonable.

I checked them out, bur didn't see prices anywhere?

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[dangerranger83]

They don't list prices so that you are forced to call or get in contact with them.

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