Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

I so want your valve covers. My chrome ones don't match anything under my hood.

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Lol you are the third person to say that. 85 even offered to buy them from me.

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[dangerranger83]

I want a set of the thick aluminium ones, crappy ones will work since u want to paint them, they don't hold the heat in as much (unless painted), dont warp as easy. Chrome holds in heat and my cheap stamped one's are already allowing oil past them.

I'm gonna have to keep my eye out for a set.

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[Twister]

I want a set of the thick aluminium ones, crappy ones will work since u want to paint them, they don't hold the heat in as much (unless painted), dont warp as easy. Chrome holds in heat and my cheap stamped one's are already allowing oil past them.

I'm gonna have to keep my eye out for a set.

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The ones on my engine are pretty bulky. They have taken several hits from the engine lift with no harm donebto them. That style of covers are all over eBay, but they want like $80-150 for them.

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[dangerranger83]

Hence why I still have my current set.

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[dangerranger83]

Here's s picture of where my drain plug currently is relative to the ttb bracket. Be sure to get the slots right. My 2 inches would have been to much of I had my ttb setup still.

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[Twister]

Ok, I was planning on getting some stuff done this weekend, but I am now recovering from kidney stone problems that started on Friday . I am hoping to get some work done to it the week/weekend.

I also shoved transfer case up between the frame rails and it seems like it is going to fit OK, I just need to cut off a weird loop hook on the end of it. I have no idea what it is four but it hits the frame. I would not reccommend the bw4406 unless you have atleast a 2 inch bodyblift.

I cut new holes in the tranny crossmember as I thought the old ones would line up but I was wrong lol. But the tranny mount on the transmission doesnt like the xmember.

But the way the engine is sitting in their now, it looks like I am going to clear the v6 mount holes.

If you look you can see the scribe marked where I had the slots set to be made.

Here the amount of room the engine has relative to the firewall as it sits in the engine bay now.

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[dangerranger83]

How your trans rubber mount bolts to the ranger one is exactly how mine looks. I too had to make new slots for it to work.

I did also uses the ranger trans rubber mount on my trans since it bolted right up to the full-size mount holes.

As for the slots, if your happy with how everything is positioned, make them but start shallow and be sure you can get your drain plug out.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

be sure you can get your drain plug out.

Move it to the other side while the engine is still out of the truck!

Any pics of the t-case?

 

[Twister]

Move it to the other side while the engine is still out of the truck!

Any pics of the t-case?

I plan on moving it before all is said and done. Ill try to get pics of tcase tonight.

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[Twister]

This is one of the tabs I have to cut off or it will run into the frame.

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[dangerranger83]

I heard that there is a tab that you have to cut off to get it to fit but it doesnt effect the case.

If I had more time for when I did my swap, I would have gone with a trans out of a an f250 (zf5?) with the same transfer case as you have. I know the slave in the zf5 hooks and works with the ranger master without any special fittings.

I may have missed it but how does the ranger master hook to the m5od-2 slave, plug and play or more to it?

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[Twister]

I heard that there is a tab that you have to cut off to get it to fit but it doesnt effect the case.

If I had more time for when I did my swap, I would have gone with a trans out of a an f250 (zf5?) with the same transfer case as you have. I know the slave in the zf5 hooks and works with the ranger master without any special fittings.

I may have missed it but how does the ranger master hook to the m5od-2 slave, plug and play or more to it?

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Well the r2 takes the same slave as the r1, so I grabbed two clutch lines from 5 speed rangers and I am hopeing it will plug.and play.

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[dangerranger83]

Now is a good time to test, if you already haven't, that your lines will plug into both the master and the slave. If so then there is a good chance everything will work out.

When I got mine all hooked up and bled, I literally sat for 30 minutes in my truck pumping the clutch. My first drive, the clutch released right off the floor but disengaged fully too and over a matter of a few weeks, was releasing where my old clutch did. Only difference is the pedal is a bit firmer to push due to now I'm pushing a 10 inch clutch vs the 8 7/8 ranger clutch. Only reason I went with a 10 was for it was new for half the price on eBay but have been told an 11 will work just fine. The 10 inch clutch is for weight 8600lbs and under and the 11 is for over that, at least that's what everything I was reading said. Having the clutch work was probably the most stressful part of the swap. After I knew it worked, things continued smooth after that.

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[Twister]

OK so I am planning on taking the plunge tonight and drilling and slotting the engine crossmember. I'm sure I've asked this before but I don't wanna &@$% up my crossmember, but how long should I make slots, is there a general rule or does it vary between swaps? Here are pics of where I marked the new lines.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

It varies by swap.

Make yours what you think is a tad short. It is a lot easier to go back and make them longer if need be than to make them shorter.