Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

That's one of the reasons i cut out my core support. The other reason was my rad.

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I really really dont wanna cut the core support, so i managed.

Small success

This last one is of the tranny inside the car, to me it doesn't seem like it fits as well as i was lead to believe, but it is far better than where the v8 version would have been, and that with the engine touching the firewall which is too far back. So i am going to need to cut just a tad in front of where the shifter will be.

 

[dangerranger83]

At least you can see your trans through the factory trans hole. With mine all i saw was the spacer adaptor thing. My shifter chines out through the floor way under the dash.

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[Twister]

Well I haven't got much more done on her. I started back at school on the 11th and it is taking up all of my time . I did pick up a non a/c heat box and an oil change for when I get to the point of firing it up. My brother has off on Friday so we are going to try to get the holes drilled and slotted for the the motor mounts, but I've got a question about it. I assume you want the drivetrain to be in alightment all the way back, so I would want to liglne up the end of the tranny with the pinion of the rear axle. How much margin of error is there, am I screwed if I don't get the tail shaft of the tranny spot on 100% with the rear axle? Also, how far from he firewall is to far, how close do I want to have the motor sitting to the firewall? Last, I need a new slave cylinder for my tranny, anyone have an advice on the brand? I was thinking of maybe splurging for a motorcraft one but I don't know.

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[dangerranger83]

The tail shaft never did line up perfectly from the factory, the engine sat to the present side a little. I set my engine in and then made sure i had enough rim for the transferase to coast the frame and called that good. The further back the engine sits, the better the FEAD/rad clearance you willl have and that what you want.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

It is supposed to be offset from the diff a little, it helps the u-joints stay lubricated.

You want at least about an inch for your engine to move around so it doesn't rub on things, your exhaust guy will appreciate a little more room too.

You might check on Rockauto if you haven't yet, a lot of times you can get Motorcraft parts for the same if not less money than you would spend on brand x up town.

 

[dangerranger83]

Updates? This was getting to the good part.

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[Twister]

Updates? This was getting to the good part.

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No updates . School is taking up a lot of my time .

 

[dangerranger83]

A new child and work are taking up my time to get stuff done on mine.

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[Twister]

A new child and work are taking up my time to get stuff done on mine.

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Yeah it sucks when life gets in the way. BTW, hows your child doing?

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[dangerranger83]

She's doing good, six days old today. Hard part is getting her to sleep at night.

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[Twister]

Well i got the cross member marked, hopefully tomorrow i should be able to pull the motor and i need to get a drill bit/step drill and i should be golden

 

[Twister]

Alright, school is over. Time to jump aybthis thing. What size drill bit do I need for the motor mount holes? I thought it was 1/2" but I was wrong.!!

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[dangerranger83]

I used an angle grinder and made slots. But I made mine just a bit too far down so my engine sat so low that the drain plug was on the ttb bracket on the engine crossmember causing me to have to cut the bracket off to take the plug out...not that the bracket mattered to me but for you it will.

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[Twister]

I used an angle grinder and made slots. But I made mine just a bit too far down so my engine sat so low that the drain plug was on the ttb bracket on the engine crossmember causing me to have to cut the bracket off to take the plug out...not that the bracket mattered to me but for you it will.

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I plan on using an angle grinder to make the slots, was going to drill two holes and slot it between them.

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[dangerranger83]

Start high on the slots and if the engine has to go down more then do that. But since you have a body lift, having the engine higer up might not hurt anything. My engine has lowered itself over time by just more then an inch so far but I think things have settled into place after ten months.

My thing with not having a body lift was getting the transmission up high enough to tuck the ttansfercase advice the bottom of the frame rail. And also when test fitting your engine, be sure to know where your output shaft is pointing at to your rear end. I had to push my trans over when I went to put my transfercase on because it was to far over to the driver side for it to fit between the rails. Good thing I had enough of an opening on the motor mount slots to be able to rotate things.

Also what are your plans for a trans xmember? I have the style that mounts in between the frame rails and even modding it to at least work with my setup, it wasn't able to clear for a front shaft. If you have the outside mounting xmember, then it should be easier to design up something. Right now I'm combine both my internal mounting and got an external one to make an xmember but also my design allows for my truck to not be out of service at anytime during the process.

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